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My 95bmw 318is doesn't like to start back up once it's warmed up and you turn it off. Once it cools off it starts up first try. What do I have to change?
Well, I think I've finally won my 'No Start When Hot' battle!! After pulling my hair out for months, I ended up using a combination of the pointers listed above.
I had already cleaned the battery terminals, starter terminals, terminals at the alternator, and especially the ground connection from the engine block to the engine mount support arm to the chassis. Even after trying two other used (but good condition) starters, I had still been unsuccessful in resolving the issue.
The final two things that I believe did the trick were:
1. I finally remembered/realized that the positive cable from the battery first goes into and out of the B+ jumper box before going on to the starter. Since, I hadn't touched it yet, I dismantled it and took wire brushes to all four connections (MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST!!!)
2. Also, I got two big 'U.S. quarter sized' washers and placed one in between each of the starter lobes and the transmission bell housing in order to provide just a fraction more clearance to the flywheel (This is what I believe the main problem was in my case - mechanical clearance just as stated in one of the previous posts)! I finally came to believe this theory more and more because in order to start my car, sometimes if I rolled it just a few inches in neutral and then dropped the clutch in gear, I would then be able to take the car back out of gear and get it to start (almost as if the flywheel had to move just a tad bit to the right position for the starter to engage more easily).
It's now almost mid-August and I still haven't had any problems from the 'original' starter after approx. 7 months!!
Additional advice: Stick with Bosch starters!!
...Hope this helps someone else out there..
1996 BMW 318
on Nov 07, 2017
whats the problem with the car?
steering being light is not a fault.
1996 BMW 318
on Oct 01, 2017
Intermittent Heater Fan
ProTip: Your car is known as an "E36" body style. If you're Googling problems and you want to get to high-quality answers from people who own the same car and have probably dealt with your same problem, search for your symptom using the term "E36".
The classic symptom of a blower resistor failure is that the fan works on the highest speed, but not on some or all lower speeds. This is because the blower resistor is bypassed on the highest speed. You say your fan is intermittent on the highest speed, so it's unlikely to be the blower resistor.
If you have a "display" on your climate control (versus three large rotary knobs and no display), then your car also has something called a "Final Stage Unit" which is an electronic part that the system uses to change the motor speed. You may not even have a blower resistor in this case.
It is possible that the motor itself is bad, but generally these motors fail by becoming noisy, or they sieze up, or die altogether. They don't typically start and stop randomly. However, you can test this by connecting a test light or voltmeter to the motor when the problem is occurring. If there's 12vdc there but the motor isn't running, then your motor is bad. If there is no power there when there should be (i.e. fan is turned on), then the problem is elsewhere.
Or you can take a gamble and replace the final stage unit. Google "E36 Final Stage Unit" and you will find step by step procedures.
1996 BMW 318
on May 04, 2017
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