I have a SRX 2006 with only the driver side low beam light(HID) off. I replaced the the bulb with an OEM replacement and still off, check the fuse for the right low beam on the box under the hood and still off. any idea or solution , please. thank you

1. My HID Kit or LED Kit does not turn on at all. If you install your HID kit or LED kit and they do not turn on you may have a reverse polarity issue. What this means is the power and ground wires of your vehicle's stock harness are reversed.
To reverse polarity on HID headlights, you must rotate the 2-pin oval connector on the HID ballast by 180 degrees in order to reverse the orientation of the plug.
To reverse polarity on LED headlights, you simply rotate the connector which plugs to your vehicle's factory harness by 180 degrees.
This problem is unrelated to the HID kit or LED Kit. It is an issue with the vehicle's factory wiring orientation. Halogen bulbs are not affected by polarity therefore some car manufacturer may have their polarity reversed.
If your HID kit or LED kit still doesn't light up after reversing the polarity, your headlight fuse might be too weak. Upping the fuse by 5 amps might do the trick.
2. My HID Bi-Xenon high beams or low beams are not working or are inverted. This is a similar issue as above, the polarity of the connector's pins are not correctly aligned. Bi-Xenon HID kits have 3 pins on the harness connector for ground, low beam and high beam connections. You will need to release the pins inside the connector and reorder them. You may need several tries to find the proper orientation. Look inside the connector and with a precision screwdriver you can release the pins and reverse the wires.
3. My HID lights are flickering. Flickering usually means the car is unable to supply enough power to the ballast. You can easily test this by connecting the HID kit directly to the car battery. If the kit works, it is a power issue. To resolve this, you will need a wiring harness.
If your car has Daytime Running Lights (DRL) flickering is usually caused by the lower voltage needed to run the DRL at half power. The car's factory harness does not provide enough power to the ballasts. If the flickering is caused by the DRL you will need a wiring harness or have the DRL disabled (this may not be legal in all areas).
Flickering can also be caused by the vehicle's onboard computer failing self-check test due to the new HID kit you just installed. This can easily be corrected with a set of warning cancellers (capacitors).
4. My LED headlights are flickering. LED lights may flicker on some vehicles, this is caused by the vehicle's onboard computer failing self-check test due to the new LED kit you just installed. This can easily be corrected by adding a set of warning cancellers (capacitors) to your setup.
5. My HID kit works sporadically. If only one side turns on from time to time or your lights work inconsistently, you probably have a power issue. You will need a wiring harness to power your HID kit directly from the car's battery.
If you install the wiring harness and still experience intermittent firing, please check your wiring connections. Make sure the power terminal is properly connected to your car battery and that the wiring harness is securely grounded.
6. Only one side is working on my HID kit or LED kit. If one side sometimes doesn't turn on it could be caused by a bad bulb, HID ballast, LED driver or wiring. To help identify which component is defective follow these steps.

1. Swap the ignitors to opposing sides (not applicable for LED kits). If the problem is reversed, you might have a bad ignitor.
   • This step will check if you have a bad ignitor. The ignitor is the black rectangular box that is plugged between the ballast and the bulbs. To perform this test, please swap your ignitors to opposing sides and note what happens to your kit.
2. Swap the HID ballasts or LED drivers to opposing sides. If the problem is reversed, you might have a bad ballast.
   • This step will check if you have a bad HID ballast or LED driver. The HID ballasts or LED drivers are the two metal boxes that came with your kit. To perform this test, please swap your HID ballast or LED driver to opposing sides and note what happens to your kit.
3. Swap the HID or LED bulbs to opposing sides. If the problem is reversed, you might have a bad bulb.
   • This step will check if you have a bad bulb. To perform this test, please swap your bulbs to opposing sides and note what happens to your kit.
4. If none of the above helps, please check for loose connections. If you installed a power relay harness with your HID kit, make sure you have properly grounded the harness.

Check for voltage at the plug where it connects to lamp, if there's 12vdc, you probably have a bad connector plug. If no voltage present, trace back to fuse box. Switch similar relays around

Did you check low beam fuses for voltage, with headlamps on lo beam? Use a testlite to check for voltage. In the diagram you see the lo/hid relay, correct? I'm not saying the relay is faulty, you need to check voltage and ground. The bcm and dimmer switch are involved, I don't know if check for headlamp/lighting trouble codes will help? Don't replace anything unless your testing points in the direction.

could be a short, bad or loose ground and maybe blew a fuse. check fuses and wiring for aforementioned problems. also if they are the H.I.D lights the ballast (should be a small, usually black box, either on the back of the bulb or wired in-line) is bad.

For starters, "..worked fine, for a few minutes." sounds like a current overload issue. Is the headlight wattage greater than the wattage of the bulb(s) you are replacing? If so, you're asking for trouble; the least being burnt wires and circuits. Worst case would be a fire.
Assuming you're within wattage specs and assuming you've checked fuses, it's a matter of using a test light working backwards from the headlight ( if you have power to the headlight but light does not work, you either have a bad bulb or it is not getting "grounded").

When either the high or low beam light is out in either side, DRL (daytime running lights) indicator will come on. When one bulb goes out, that's a clue the opposite bulb will burn out soon, so its best to replace both bulbs. If it was a fuse issue, both left and right side would be out. If driver side is OK but passenger side is not, then its a bulb issue. A 2006 Honda civic takes 9006 (HB4) low beam bulbs and 9005 (HB3) high beam bulbs. Cheapest is online from Walmart site-2-store. After procuring, wear latex, vinyl, or ANY gloves to keep your (corrosive) oil skin from coming in contact with headlight glass bulbs. Your skin oil will chemically react and cause shorter life span on glass bulbs. Instruction don't tell you this, so you handle with your hands, then need to replace bulbs 3 years later instead of 5 years (or more) in the future. With gloves on, pop the hood and look behind each headlight. Turn counter clockwise to unlock headlight bulb holders. Its a quarter to half turn to unlock bulb holder lock. Replace one bulb at a time so you don't confuse high beam from low beam. The wire has a tab you need to lift to pull out & disconnect wire connector. You might need a slim narrow-**** (NOT phillips) screwdriver to lift the tab; or use your house key. Snap the wire connector to the new bulb, then twist into headlight housing to secure bulb holders, then move on to the next bulb to repeat the procedure. Pict below, 9005 high beam is on the left, 9006 low beam is on the right. Handle by grasping the plastic base, not the glass bulbs. The raised potrusion on the bottom center is where the tab locks onto wire connector. Replace all 4 bulbs now, but in the future, its likely the low beam will wear out before the high beam. In the future, replace only the pair, not all 4. The factory installs inferior bulbs that go out sooner, hoping you'll take to dealership and they ******** you with higher parts-n-labor fees. As opposed to Walmart online site-2-store, it would cost you AT LEAST triple in parts & labor from dealership to replace all 4 headlight bulbs :-(

To wire up an HID kit on the low beams of your Mazda 3 2005, you will need 3-4 things:
1- HID kit (bulbs and ballasts)
2- HID relay (connects your hid kit to your battery)
3- 4700uF capacitor (solves DRL flickering issue)
4- H7 hid bulb adaptor (you can also use the rubber piece that holds the bulb wires as a spacer)


Wiring diagram:
http://www.carsets.co.uk/upload/temp/images/hid-light-installation-photo-display.jpg

Tips on How to wire up:
1. HID bulb's amp wires connects with the ballast's amp wires. (There's only one way to connect them.)
2. The positive and the negative spade connectors from the hid relay connect with your vehicle's low beam connector, closest to your battery: the driver side. The passenger side low beam connector is not used and should be insulated. You can use electric tape.)
3. Each ballast is connected to one of the relay's clip connector, and it's grounded on each side to your vehicle's body. (One connector for each ballast, one for each side. You can use the screw for the body as a ground.)
4. The red wire(with the inline fuse) in the relay connects to your battery's positive terminal.
5. The capacitor sits on the relay switch. (Google for how to wire the capacitor onto the hid relay switch.) dynoxg image
6. The halogen bulb sits on an adapter. You can safely remove them from each other, and use an H7 hid adapter instead.

For more help: Moonlight Driving

Sounds like the ballast similiar to the ones in flourescent lighting may have gone bad and that is why the bulb is not lighting up.

Hi, you will probably find it has it,s own fuse, suggest you check fuse box, it will be a 10amp fuse (red)

The HID bulbs are very easy to change, and can be bought online for much less than from the dealer. Check sites like xenondepot and Ebay for Phillips D2R (for reflector headlamps) HID bulbs and you can replace them yourself.