How do i change my tie rods. is it something that i can do

Play in the steering wheel is likely from worn tie rod ends. Have your inner and outer tie rods checked. The outer tie rods are connected to the rod ends coming out of the rack on each side, and are connected to the wheels. The inner tie rods are not visible-but are on the rods under the protective boots on each end of the rack and pinion assembly.
You may need a new rack assembly, but first check if you just need new tie rods.

The first step in replacing the inner tie rod is to remove the tie rod end. It's basically a three step process, where you start by loosening the jam nut that's used to set the alignment (toe-in or toe-out). That jam nut determines how far up the inner tie rod the tie rod end is fixed. The tie rod end is hollow and threaded, so it can be screwed on or off the inner tie rod. Any procedure for removing a tie rod will start by telling you to count the turns you unscrew the tie rod end, something that I didn't do, and I'll save the explanation for the end:-) After you loosen the jam nut, you remove the cotter pin from the post on the outer tie rod ball joint, and unscrew the nut that holds the ball joint into the tapered fitting on the steering knuckle (video to right). After you pop the outer tie end free of the steering knuckle, you can unscrew the tie rod end. from the inner tie rod, but you need to grip it with something. Inner tie rods normally have some flat surfaces or a splined surface for grabbing with pliers. In this case, I needed two pairs of visegrips and a clamp to hold the visegrips on the inner tie rod from moving in order to get the outer tie rod end broken free and turning easy. That video is below. I happen to own the shop manuals for my Dodge Omni, so I was able to study the procedure for replacing the inner tie rod in detail. I didn't follow it for a couple reason. First, they show my type of power steering rack (Saginaw vs TRW) needs to be removed from the car to change the inner tie rod. That's a lot of extra work, not to mention the fact I buried one of the crossmember bolts in my unibody and flooring repair! So I went with an inner tie rod removal kit from Harbor Freight, manufactured by U.S. General (in Taiwan). The tool is very simple, basically a large steel tub with a snap in opening for a large crows foot insert on one end and a 1/2" socket drive on the other end. The kit is shown in the photo to the lower left (which I need to replace), and a video of the procedure is shown below. The kit wasn't quite right for my car, I had to use an oversized crows foot and the ball joint housing on the inner tie rod was too long, so the flats on the housing were barely held with the crows foot positioned by hand at the very end of the tool. But I got it out.

best advice is a garage with the right equipment ,ever see a splinter in a eye from hammering a bearing out ,not very nice ,even worse sitting in emergency for 3 hrs waiting to see a doctor

turn your steering wheel straight
look at both wheel to see which one is not straight ( may be both )
loose the tie rod end locking nut and turn the rod to whichever way that make the wheel straight.

you need a front end alignment now

If you have electric steering(no power steering pump)you have to change the entire steering gear assembly as no part is available.If you have the system with a pump a part is available.In order to change the inner tie rod you would loosen the 21mm lock nut on the tie rod.remove the 18mm nut on the outer tie rod and spin off after removing the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle.Remove the nut and the inner and outer clamps on the tie rod boot.remove the boot.You would then need a special inner tie rod tool to turn the threaded inner rod from the steering gear.

loosen nut on tie rod..22mm wrench,remove nut from tie rod end..18mm socket,hit side of knuckle with hammer to seperate tie rod end..unscrew tie rod end from tie rod..reverse procedure to install..you will to hold down on tie rod end to keep stud from spinning

This job is normally done in a shop however it can be done in the driveway as well but not as easily.

I assume you are replacing all four rod ends.

Before removing the tie rod assemblies, First loosen the adjusting nuts on the sleeves that lock the assembly adjustment length. Free up but do not change the adjustment of the sleeves.

The tie rods have a tapered portion that goes into the track rod and the wheel steering knuckle that need to be split apart after removing the retaining nut. This splitting can be done with a puller made for the job or something called a crows foot which is a wedge shaped fork that you hammer on to split the tie rod end taper from the track rod or knuckle. These tools can be rented. The fork is about $12

Once you have the tie rod assemblies off and on the bench, carefully measure the total length of the tie rod assemblies. Screw out the tie rod ends counting the turns and screw in the new ends the same number of turns. You will see that one of the ends is right hand thread and the other a left hand thread. Install the assemblies back on the car, first making sure the tapered area of all parts are very clean. Pull the nuts up to at least 30 foot pounds of torque ( 1 foot wrench pulled to thirty pounds force) or best to the manufacturers specification. Now measure the total length of the tie rods. and make them the same length as those you took off. If there is a difference in the lengths, split the difference in the numbers and make the lengths exactly equal. Lock up the adjusting sleeve nuts. Make sure the tie rods are locked in a position that they are free to swivel their full rotational potential. You are now finished except for alignment. Take the car immediately to an alignment shop and get at least the toe in set. This is what changes when doing this job. You must get this done or you will wipe out your front tires very quickly.

Good Luck

you have to apply pressure to get them off,,,all they do is screw in place

Unless you have air tools with and air compressor. Your going to have to pry off those tie rod with a air hammer with a prying fork. It not that expensive. Buy the tie rods yourself so you dont get stiffed and call around for the best deal.