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Re: no accelerator, engine revs between
Always turn the other car first before connecting the cables, otherwise the computer can be damaged. Try disconnecting the battery for five minutes, then connect them again and start the engine. Hopefully this will restore normal operation.
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Economy mode usually comes on when the computer senses a low charge on the battery and conserves power to start the vehicle. 1. If you can start the car by jump starting from another vehicle with its engine running then you know your battery is the problem. In some cases when you completely drain a battery you have issues with them ever after until they fail completely.
2. If you cannot jump start from another vehicle then turn everything off and disconnect the negative and then the positive lead on the battery terminals and leave it for 10 minutes. Then connect it back up again (positive lead first and then negative lead last) and put the key in the ignition and turn on the ignition but do not start the car. Leave it there for 5 minutes and then turn the ignition it off. Then try starting again.
3. You have not mentioned if there are any other warning lights being displayed on the dash which you have not mentioned in your question. Please check this carefully because it is also relevant to this problem if there are other warning lights displayed.
The missing while accelerating is likely due to ignition coils and/or spark plugs going bad. The missing while in park is a normal thing. The car has a rev limiter that will not allow the engine to rev to higher than 3000 RPM while in park.
One possibility is you have corrupt data in the engine computer parameter memory due to the low voltage and jump-starting surges. Disconnect the battery, wait ten minutes, then reconnect the battery and follow the engine computer training procedure (this may be titled "After Changing the Battery") in your owner's manual. Usually it's something on the order of letting the engine idle for a period of time, shifting through the gears if you have an automatic transmission, then driving normally.
Was the battery dead flat when jump starting ? This may have caused damage to electronic components due to a sudden electrical surge when removing the jumper leads .(especially if the engine was running )
Usually the first to be hit is the alternator . Just put a volt meter across the battery and rev the engine to about 2500rpm for 20seconds or so . The voltage should climb to about 14.5 volts . If the system is not charging that is where your problem will be , likely a new voltage regulator which is internal to the alternator will be needed .
I am also wondering why the battery went flat in the first place , did you leave the lights on ? Perhaps also test your battery and make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight .
It appears to be stuck-open throttle maybe due to a bad throttle cable or a broken return spring. Check the operation of the throttle with the engine off, and don't start the engine until this problem is repaired. Hope this helps!
First, have the battery charged and load tested. If it does not pass load test, replace it. An alternator is not made to charge a battery. it's job is to maintain the current state of charge. By driving and attempting to charge it that way you over-worked the alternator and may have damaged it or the regulator. Once the battery is fully charged and in good condition, you will need to check the charging system for proper operation. If the gauge system does not return to normal, it will need further diagnosis to correct it.This isn't a "cure" but rather, what you need to do in order to get back to "square one". With the alternator running "flat out" trying to charge a dead battery it can put out over 15volts, possibly damaging the dash/body control module or computer.
examine the relays for ignition and fuel under the hood and or the fuse panel under the dash.... replace them... or swap them out for an accessory that uses a relay that isn't critical to the operation of the vehicle...