I am not getting any vacuum to the water control valve or the heater door on the heater core compartment. Is there a vacuum line missing or loose on the switch.

The temp control lever or dial has a loose or disconnected vacuum line or control wire at the dash control or at the heater core valve under the right side dash or on opposite firewall in engine compartment.
listen for vacuum leak in dash. if you don;t hear it then you have to look for it follow line and also make sure the vacuum regulator is ok. You can check this by sucking and blowing on the line tube. You will know if its working when you do.

Also the control valve at the heater core can get stuck may need to lube it and manually free it up.
Hope this helps Mike

here's a few things (1) is the thermostat facing the right way /the arrow head facing out towards the front of the car or facing up towards the hood ? the blend door actuator/the a/c vacuum control valve/ or vacuum lines can be broken connected wrong or missing altogether here's some pictures for you
this is a blend door actuator

I don't know which one you have or both

a/c vacuum control valve

this is the blower motor resistor I really don't think so on this one because the fan blower works ,so concentrate on vacuum lines and the vacuum controls here and you should be warm soon good luck

Temperature is controlled by an air mix door inside the HVAC compartment. This door is either electrically actuated if you have an electronic climate control system, or a cable for manual control. Most probable cause is a failed electric actuator (air mix door control module).

There are several reasons why your car's heater may be blowing cold air, instead of heat. It is important to understand how the heater works in your car before you can begin to try to diagnose why it is not working. First, there is NOT an electric heater element in the heater system in automobiles, like in portable heaters used in the home. The part that transfers heat into the passenger compartment is called a heater core. A heater core can be thought of as a miniature radiator. The car engine's coolant flows through the heater core while the fan (also called a blower), blows air through the heater core fins. When air blows through the heater core fins, it is warmed, therefore warming the passenger compartment.
Start by checking the coolant. As we already said coolant is what warms the heater core. So if the coolant is low, there may not be a sufficient amount of warmth to transfer heat to the air in the passenger compartment. Since it 's cold outside, low coolant may not effect the operating temperature of the engine significantly, so you won't be alerted to a coolant problem by the temperature gage on the instrument panel. Once the coolant is full, feel the heater hoses that go through the firewall. With the engine at normal operating temperature, BOTH of the heater hoses should be hot to the touch. If only one is hot, this indicates there is is a blockage in the heater core or there is air trapped in the heater core. Using a Lisle coolant funnel is helpful in purging the air from the cooling system. If the coolant is really brown, has been neglected, or if "stop leak" has been used at some point, the heater core could be stopped up. The blockage can sometimes be unstopped by removing the heater hoses and using a garden hose with a sprayer to flush the heater core out. If neither of the hoses are hot to the touch, there could also be a malfunctioning heater control valve, if used on the model you're working on. Check for presence of a heater control valve by following the heater hoses back to the engine. Sometimes, a vacuum line could have a break causing there to be no vacuum to operate the valve. Also it should be noted that if this is your first winter with this car (and you're unfamiliar with the car's repair history), the previous owner could have by-passed the heater core because of a leak. When a heater core leaks, usually they wet the passenger side floorboard. The labor cost to change heater cores is usually expensive, so sometimes people will loop the heater hoses and by-pass a leaking heater core instead of repairing it properly.
Next check for proper airflow. After you're sure the heater core is getting hot water flow, read the following information. Doors within the heater case are either controlled by electric actuators, cables or vacuum motors. Adjust the heat control to both extremes while listening for movement of the blend door. With a cable operated heater door it's easiest to hear the door thump when it closes. If the door is not operating, find the door that controls the airflow across the heater core. If there is an electric motor that controls the door, tapping on it can sometimes make it work temporarily for testing purposes. A vacuum operated motor needs vacuum to work, so using a handheld vacuum pump for testing is usually recommended. If the vacuum motor does not hold vacuum, the diaphragm is leaking requiring replacement. To go deeper into diagnoses of the control head's function and diagnosis, specific vehicle repair manual information is needed. But hopefully the basics laid out in this article has helped to get you started on the right track.

check the heather core to see if it is pluged

There are little doors under the dash that direct the air to either the vents (blows at your face), the defrost (blows at the windshield), or underneath (blow to your feet area) - these doors are controlled by what's called actuator/s and they are usually controlled by vacuum or cables - when the air won't change directions it can be either the vacuum switch, the vacuum line disconnected, cable disconnected or the actuator itself can be stuck or bad...

You also have a heater valve that allows the heated coolant to enter the passenger compartment into a heater core (small radiator to allow heat to transfer into the air when the blower blows air across the core) - this can also be vacuum controlled or cable controlled or electronically controlled - if it malfunctions then you may not get any heat into the passenger compartment - you will have to determine if the valve is not getting the signal to open or is bad and will not open - good luck :O)

The heater bypass valve is bad.It's located on the heater hose under the hood near the firewall.It looks like a little 3in.diameter black disc with a vacuum line attatched to it

When the engine is cold,check the coolant level.

Make sure it's on max.

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A coolant system should be flush every two years.

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If you did a coolant flush recently then air pocket can be the cause of the un-even heating problem.

The DIY method is to drive you car onto a ramp or a steep hill.

Iet the engine cool off and top off the coolant tank.

Set MAX heat + MAX fan

Let the engine ran for 20 minutes wih the cap off and the trap air will escape from the coolant reserve tank,

Check coolant level and top off coolant when the engine cools down.



A shop will charge $75+ for this but using an air operated excavate tool!

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A car with over 90K miles may experience linkage problem to the heater control valve.

The heater control valve (near the firewall) may be stick over time.

Open the hood and move the heater to max and min. Back and forth.

Clean and lube the linkage with WD-40 to free the heater control valve.

If it's a vacuum type heater control valve then cash for leaky vac. hoses.


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Move the fan switch back and forth to re-new the electrical conductors.

Pass a vacuum over the control panel to prevent dust build up behind the console.

Check your coolant level first. Next check your heater control valve. With engine at operating temp and heater on high, do this:

1. Heater hose from water pump should be hot (if not, water pump may be dead or thermostat is stuck closed)
2. Heater hose from thermostat housing should be hot (if not, thermostat may be stuck closed or water pump is dead)
3. Heater hose going to heater core should be hot ( if not, heater control valve is not getting vacuum from heater control unit, or valve is broken)
4. Heater hose returning from heater core should be hot (if not, heater core is blocked, undo both hoses to core and flush with water hose until clear)

Test thermostat: with cold engine cranked, watch water temp gauge. As it gets hotter and hotter, when the thermostat opens, the temp should drop suddenly and then go back up.

Test water pump: with engine at operating temp. Squeeze top radiator hose tight, when you release it, you should feel/hear a surge of water. It is much like when you pinch a water hose closed and release it.

Test vacuum from heater control unit to heater control valve: undue vacuum line from control valve. It should have a vacuum when pressed against you skin in addition to releasing the actuating arm on the control valve.

If there is no vacuum, a quick fix will be to disconnect the plastic actuator from the silver arm on the heater valve. This will let the hot water to always flow to your heater core.

Follow these steps:

Check coolant level, then start engine until it is warm and the thermostat opens. You will tell when it does when the needle on your temp gauge goes cold when it reaches around 180-200* and then goes back up. Now turn on your heater full blast and go to the engine compartment. You will see a heater valve located on the passenger side, next to the washer reservoir. It is a black thing with 4 heater hoses connected to it. Feel the hoses. When everything is working correctly it should be like this:

Hose going to waterpump will be hot
Hose going to (I think the thermostat housing) will be hot
2 Hoses going to heater core (mounted behind firewall) will be hot

1. If only 1 heater core hose is hot, heater core is clogged--
UNCLOG: remove 2 hoses going to heater core when engine is cool, hook water hose end to one of the sides and flush out gunk from heater core. Reconnect hose and you should be good.

2. If neither hose core hose is hot, heater control valve is bad or vacuum is bad--
Test Vacuum: remove vacuum line from heater control valve, you should feel the vacuum **** on it when pressed to your cheek and the heater control valve actuator should move when you unhook the vacuum line. If you have a good vacuum, it's probable the valve available at autozone part # 5941 for around $21.

To get heat while you wait to replace part, unhook silver arm on heater control valve that is hooked to the plunger. This will give you heat all of the time, but it is controlled by the bottom hot/cold switch on your heater control unit so you won't get hot in the cab. It will just circulate heat through the core.