My 2002 chevy blazer gas gauge went out. before it went totally out it always read a 1/4 tank. the feul pump still works great. could it be a fuse that went out that doesnt relay it to the dash? where is the fuse exactly located at?

Question edited for clarity and typos.
Question moved to model category.

https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+chevy+blazer+4.3+fuel+pump+sender+wiring+diagram

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bad body ground at tank connection, also check gauge fuse

There most likely isn't a problem. The fuel gauge works off of a reisistor board that's mounted on the fuel pump assembly. There is a arm with a float attached to one end. On the other end there are needles that touch the resistor board. The float level changes where the needles touch the risistor board and that changes your fuel gauge. Not all resistor boards read exactly the same, especially if an AC Delco pump wasn't used. The gauge is just reading off a little bit compared to your original one. Try filling up, resetting your trip meter and then driving a good bit. When you fill up the next time figure your gas mileage by dividing the miles you went by how many gallons you used. I bet your still getting around the same gas mileage.

There may be a blown fuse causing the trip meter failure and quite possibly the gauge reading failure. since you didnt say if they went out at the same same it is hard to say but checking the fuses is a likely culprit for the first problem. it is entirely possibly that you fuel guage just stopped sending the signal up to your guage. this is known to happen usually only remedied by replacing the fuel pump as it is part of the wiring on the pump itself. that is unless that fuse is the reason it is bad. the other thing is the possibility of a broken/shorted wire that provides the signal from the pump to the guage good luck

make sure of the ground wire for the gauge

Just had a new fuel pump installed in 2002 Chevy Malibu. Worked great for about a week and then the fuel gauge started reading "empty" when the car has a full tank of gas. What happened?

Problem number one. The circuit that powers up your data link connector (where you plug the code reader into) is the cigarette lighter fuse. Check that fuse to make sure it is not blown. Second problem: You more than likely need to replace your instrument panel cluster.

I had the same problem. I had a few different mechanics tell me that the fuel pump is starting to go out when it does that. The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank, and the gasoline keeps the pump cool and lubricated. When the fuel tank is less than a 1/4 full, the pump is not submerged anymore, and can have trouble sending gas to the engine. My emergency fix was to get underneath the car on the driver's side and bang on the gas tank about three times. It will start up, and will run great unless you turn your engine off. But eventually you're going to need a new fuel pump. Once I replaced it, the problem went away.

Sure there is!

DO THIS FIRST!!!
When you turn the key on, and the gauges and warning lights come to life, does the needle on the fuel gauge move a tiny bit? It should. If it does move a hair, this is a good sign your gauge is still good. If not, keep reading.

The gauges themselves are usually not at fault, but they can fail, of course. Usually, it's the sender or float that's the culprit. The assembly resides in the fuel tank in the module or unit that houses your fuel pump. Many customers (when faced with the cost of this tank job) will opt for waiting until the fuel pump goes bad, and replacing pump and sending unit together. However, there are obvious drawbacks to this!

ONE test you could do if you are good at driveway car work is this: Crawl under vehicle and find the bundle of wires (not tubes or lines) that goes up to the top of the fuel tank. Sometimes you can reach it through the rear wheel well. Follow this small group of wires up to wherever it plugs in to the pigtail coming out of the tank. THis could be on top of tank, or just outside the perimeter of the tank. Unplug this connection. Using a common 12 volt test lamp probe, ground the test lamp, turn the key to the "ON" position so dash lights up, and touch tester to each wire tip on the end not connected to the tank (engine side of wire harness.) Have someone watch the fuel gauge as you touch the leads one by one. The gauge should move when one of these is grounded thru the lite. Total deflection of the needle means your sender is at fault, not the gauge. BUt it's usually the sender, anyway. THey're cheap enough, but the labor on a tank job can vary from place to place.

Good luck, TT

yes you have to drop the tank. you will also need a fuel line tool to unhook the fuel lines. before you drop the tank see if tou can reach and wiggle the electrical connection on the top of the tank. these pumps have a pigtail issue. please rate