Question about 2004 Audi A4
Don't disconnect any brake line from caliper!
Don't disconnect any ABS sensor!
For change front brake pads you must raise vehicle, remove wheels, extract the retaining spring of the caliper, and remove the caliper as follow: 1. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, and do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose! 2. Remove top and bottom caps (on back side of the caliper) for access to guide pins, then unbolt and remove them from the brake carrier. Remove the caliper. 3. Now you must thoroughly clean the brake calipers (free of grease). 4. Remove outer brake pad from brake carrier. 5. Pull inner brake pad out of brake caliper piston. 6. Remove brake carrier from wheel bearing housing (two ribbed bolts). 125 Nm 7. Remove brake disc from wheel hub. 8. Install brake carrier on wheel bearing housing. Tightening torque for two ribbed bolts = 125 Nm. 9. Check up the brake fluid level on the reservor, and emptying if neccessary! 10. Push piston back into brake caliper housing. 11. Install inner brake pad (with expanding spring) in brake caliper piston. (Arrow marked on pad - if exist, must point in direction of brake disc rotation when vehicle is moving forward). 12. Install outer brake pad into brake carrier. 13. Bolt brake caliper housing to brake carrier using two guide pins. Tightening torque is 25 Nm. 14. Install both caps. 15. Insert retaining spring into brake caliper housing. Important: Depress the brake pedal firmly several times while the car is stationary so that the brake pads adjust to their normal operating positions!!! Check brake fluid level and top up if neccessary!!! Please Rate my Response! Thanks!
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
Changed both front disks today on my 1998 A4, it's easy enough if you've a little experience around spanners and know to be cautious about damaging bolt heads etc. I didn't use axle stands or a torque wrench etc, just kerbside DIY. As always it's best to do those things, but I'll share my experience.
*You'll get better access to the brake calliper bolts if you turn the wheel all the way, full lock, to the left to do the right disk and full lock to the right to do the left disk.
1. Apply handbrake, put blocks at the back wheels, slacken the front wheel nuts and jack the first side up. When it's up, remove the wheel. Replace a couple of wheel nuts to keep the disk steady.
2. Using a 17mm socket remove the 2 bolts that hold the calliper in place. They're at the back of the calliper. This is the hardest thing as they're tricky to get to and pretty tight, I did both without an extension on the socket, try different angles to get best purchase. With the wheel turned full lock you can get decent leverage on your spanner. Be careful not to let it slip off the bolt. Wear gloves for some protection against finger injury. I soaked the bolts in WD40 first, don't know if it made much difference. Eventually they both went, but be prepared for a bit of a struggle.
3. Remove the calliper, the disk might trap it due to the rust that's on the outside of the disk. A small hammer will help, but don't damage your pads doing this. watch your eyes from flying rust.
The heavy calliper should be tied to the suspension to take the strain off the hoses. I sat it on the lower suspension arm.
4. Remove any wheel nuts you put in and take the disk off, put the new one on. You can put some wheel nuts in to hold it again. Check all 5 holes line up or do this when the wheel goes back on.
5. Put the calliper back on, just the reverse of removal, and tighten to the correct torque (I just did it as tight as I could as I've done before) Line up the 5 holes in disk with the 5 holes behind it. I had a replacement part rather than a genuine Audi part so it took a couple of tries to line up the 5 holes. Replace the wheel. This is tricky as you can easily move the disk away from the holes. Tighten the nuts hand tight, release the car off the jack and finish off tightening the wheel nuts.
6. Test the brakes on a gentle drive, but try the brakes immediately i.e. before you need to at a junction. First press will be a bit soft.
7. I'm not a mechanic so take care where brakes are concerned. Easy job if you're ok around cars though, 20 minutes if nuts came away easily. Hope this helps someone.
Posted on Mar 03, 2010
1. Be sure that the vehicle is parked on level concrete and the parking brake is on.
2. Place stops in front of and behind rear tires.
3. Consult owner’s manual for proper lifting and wheel removal procedures before lifting front of vehicle.
4. Place jack stands under vehicle for added stability.
5. Remove wheel.
6. Place a brake line clamp on the brake line. This will minimize brake fluid loss.
7. Using an 11mm wrench, disconnect brake line from caliper. Be aware that brake fluid may leak from line once disconnected.
8. Disconnect ABS sensor grommet from mounting bracket by pulling straight up.
9. Disconnect brake pad sensor from mounting bracket. Pry tab up gently with small flat head screwdriver, rotate counterclockwise 90 degrees, and lift up.
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: electrical fault Audi A4 2002
PRISE OUT THE TRIM PANEL AT THE BASE OF THE ARMREST WITH A FLAT-BLADED TOOL UNDO 2 SCREWS(DRIVERS DOOR) SINGLE SCREW ACCESSIBLE THOUGH THE ARMREST ON PASSENGER SIDE ,NOW GO TO THE BASE OF THE DOOR TRIM UNDO THE SCREW IN THE CENTRE,ONTO THE TOP TRIM NOW ABOVE THE RELEASE HANDLE,STARTING AT THE FRONT EDGE(DOOR HINGE SIDE) CAREFULLY PULL THE TRIM PANEL AWAY FROM THE DOOR TO RELEASE THE CLIPS,THEN SLIDE IT TO THE FRONT TO UNHOOK THE REAR EDGE OF THE TRIM PANEL,UNDO THE 4 SCREWS YOU CAN SEE,UNHOOK CABLE FROM REAR OF INTERIOR DOOR HANDLE,DISCONNECT WIRING PLUGS SPEAKER ,WINDOW MOTOR CONTROL UNIT AND THERE YOU HAVE IT ..EASY... IF YOU START NOW YOU WILL HAVE IT FINISHED IN 2 DAYS...ONLY JOKING....SHOULD TAKE 1 HOUR..HOPE THIS WILL BE OF SOME HELP TO YOU...LET ME KNOW HOW YOU GOT ON
Posted on Feb 10, 2009
SOURCE: Audi A4
Not sure if they've changed it but this is what i do for my 99 a4
First remove the screw in the handle pull, it should be next to where your fingers go.
Pull down on the black piece of plastic and remove the screw form the door
Then remove the screws on either end of the door, one near the door jam on top and one near the other side, same place.
Finally pull up then out and the door panel should come out
Hope that helps
Posted on Jun 17, 2009
SOURCE: audi a4 2.8 1995 model
WARNING The slots in the steering knuckle must not be widened. Do NOT loosen any other steering knuckle fasteners, otherwise the axle geometry must be checked.
Fig. A threaded plastic guide dowel is included in the vehicle's tool kit. Thread it into place to guide the wheel on the ground
Fig. Apply a light coating of an anti-seizing compound to the lug bolts
Fig. The screwdriver handle supplied in the vehicle's tool kit is used to start the lug bolts
Fig. Always loosen or tighten the axle nut or bolt with the vehicle on the ground
Inner CV joint-to-transaxle flange:
M8 fasteners: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) M10 fasteners: 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm)
Posted on Jul 09, 2009
Inside the boot is a plastic cap embeded in the boot liner. Remove the cap to reveal a screw. Undo the screw and the whole rear light cluster will come away in a sideways and not rearward direction to reveal all of the bulbs. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 11, 2009
I had this as well, but you just have to wait a second. You can't remove it to quickly, the car takes a second to essentially unlatch the key.
Posted on Nov 08, 2009
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