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Step 1 - Locate the Brake Booster
The brake booster is located adjacent to the master cylinder. There will be 4 mounting screws protruding through the booster. The booster is also attached to the brake pedal in the interior of the car. This is where you will start work in replacing the brake booster.
Step 2 - Remove the Brake Booster
Start by locating the booster rod that goes through the firewall and is attached to the brake pedal on the interior of the car. Typically, there is a cotter pin that secures the rod to the pedal, but there may also be nuts. When removing any fasteners in the course of this job, make sure to retain the nuts, cotter pins, and various other fasteners as the new brake booster will not come with replacement fasteners.
Remove the fasteners, whether it is a cotter pin or nuts. Slide the rod off the brake pedal. Disconnect the vacuum brake line that connects to the booster. In the engine compartment, there are four bolts securing the booster to the master cylinder and firewall. Loosen and remove these nuts. Remove the nuts (there are usually 2 in addition to the 4 that have already been removed) that secure the brake booster to the master cylinder. Wiggle the brake booster away from the master cylinder. There is a seal between the two. You will need to keep this as the new part does not generally come with another one. Remove the brake booster.
Step 3 - Install the New Brake Booster
Set the new brake booster on the four mounting screws. Tighten the nuts on the bolts to the master cylinder. Insert the push rod through the firewall. Start these by hand so that the threads are not ruined. Reattach the vacuum hose, then the nuts to the 4 mounting screws. Reattach the push rod to the brake pedal by whatever means it was originally secured with, whether by cotter pin or by bolts.
Step 4 - Bleed the Brakes
You will need to bleed the brakes after replacing the brake booster
If your hearing air when you depress the brake pedal, then my guess is you have a vacuum leak, or the brake booster has a leak. You can try disconnecting the large hose going to the brake booster & plugging it with a bolt that will fit into the hose tightly, start the engine, press the brake if you don't hear the air, then I'd guess the booster is leaking & needs to be replaced..otherwise you'll need to check the hoses for leaks.
Slide the tube nut wrench over the brake line to the master cylinder connection. The master cylinder is normally on the driver's side of the engine bay and mounted on the firewall. Orient the wrench so that it fits over the tube nut on the end of the brake line.
2Disconnect the brake line. Turn the nut counterclockwise to remove. Note the location of each brake line. There are four lines total, and they need to be put back in the same location when reinstalling the lines. You may want to mark them with masking tape and permanent marker.
3Unplug the master cylinder cap electrical plug.
4Remove the brake master cylinder to brake booster bolts with a socket wrench.
5Back the master cylinder off the brake booster.
6Unbolt the bolts holding the brake booster to the firewall on your vehicle.
7Pull the cotter pin out of the brake pedal to brake booster connecting pin with a pair of pliers. This is done inside the vehicle down in the driver side foot well.
8Pull the brake pedal to brake booster connecting pin out to disconnect the brake pedal from the brake booster connecting arm.
9Mark and remove the vacuum hoses on the brake booster and slide the booster off the firewall.
10Install the new brake booster. Installation is the reverse of removal
The brake booster is bolted to the engine firewall on the inside under the firewall sound insulation above and to the rear of the brake pedal, there are four nuts on four studs.
assume u are talking about brake booster
first unbolt the two the two nuts attaching master cylinder to booster should be able to leave brake lines on master cylinder just move master cyinder to side bending lines slightly ok just dont kink them
Now on brake pedal remove rod from brake pedal usally held on with pin and clip
now follow that rod up to fire wall you see that rod goes thu the fire wall above that rod should be two bolts and nuts and bellow that rod should be two bolts and nuts remove all four nuts then u should be able to pull boster from eninge compartment
The check valve is the plastic connector that the vacuum line connects to the brake vacuum booster with. An alternative is to get a used booster from a salvage yard, it would be about 1/3 the price of a repair of the leaking one.
May be a bad brake booster does pedal feel tighter/harder than usual if it does check Vacuum hose to brake booster for leaks/cracks or loose is hose if fine booster is at fault. Good Luck and thanks for using FIX YA
If I understand you Question correctly you would like to know what you brake booster hooks on to? Its bolted through the fire wall by four bolts you can't see those bolts from outside in the hood. They can be seen up above the brake pedal on the inside of you vehicle . The master cylinder in mounted to the brake booster. The brake booster has a Push type rod that attached to the top of your brake pedal close to the brake light switch. Good Luck
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