Wires for for ignition spliced for to starter 79 nova

you dont hot wiring is the movies --before you ripped out ignition system should have had key[s] cut by vin at a dealer or an auto authorized locksmith now need new ignition switch /cylinder and keys

i don't know. if you are in a hurry, please contact folks at this link <https://musclecarclub.com/chevrolet-nova-ss/>

From this chart - I think you may be misreading the number - 3970010 is possibly the actual number: Which makes the engine pretty old 68-72 350 V8 - 4 bolt main. I included past this number so that you can see that the number you posted doesn't actually exist. And thus my conclusion that the 9 is most likely a 0. Hope this helps. 3970010 350 69 Corvette late 69,4 bolt main 3970010 302 69 Camaro Z/28,Late 69, 4 bolt main 3970010 350 69-79 Truck 2&4 bolt main 3970010 350 69-79 Pass,Chevelle,Camaro,Nova,MonteCarlo 2&4 bolt main 3970010 350 70 Corvette 300,350,370 HP 4 bolt main 3970010 350 71 Corvette 270,330 HP 4 bolt main 3970010 350 72 Corvette 200,255 HP 4 bolt main 3970014 350 69-77 Pass,Chevelle,Camaro, Nova,MonteCarlo 2 or 4 bolt main 3970014 350 69-79 Truck 2 or 4 bolt main 3970014 350 72 Corvette late &undefined;72,200 HP,255HP 4 bolt main 3970020 307 68-73 Pass,Chevelle,Camro, Nova 3970020 307 69-73 Truck 3970024 307 69-73 Pass,Chevelle,Camro, Nova,Truck 3992386 327 68-69 Pass,Chevelle,Camro, Nova,Truck Large Jounal

solder the new connector/cable will work.
anything else corrodes .
u can use high temp rtv silicone sealant to cover some of the connector or wire .
if you use a flame be safe. u'll put ur eye out

more than likely the power wire coming from the starter is bad, they have inline fusable links built into the power wires coming from the starter, make sure these are all hooked up and the links are not burnt. A service manual/haynes, etc will give you schematics and link locations

Check the fuse or fuses to the starting circuit. I would recommend to take the switch off the dashboard and check the wires, you might have a live wire shorting your lights and buzzer.

Your neutral safety switch rarely goes bad, and when it does, usually lets you know (you have to wiggle the shifter).

Let me know how it went. Good Luck

are the cables good and not corroded as well as just for facts although something may be new ,....they come defective as well just a note . but have you tried using a jumper wire to ensure it works

Fusible Links

The engine compartment wiring harness has several fusible links. The same size wire with a special hypalon insulation must be used when replacing a fusible link.
The links are located in the following areas:

1. A molded splice at the starter solenoid Bat terminal, a 14 gauge red wire.
   
2. A 16 gauge red fusible link at the junction block to protect the unfused wiring of 12 gauge or larger wire. This link stops at the bulkhead connector.
   
3. The alternator warning light and field circuitry is protected by a 20 gauge red wire fusible link used in the battery feed to voltage regular #3 terminal. The link is installed as a molded splice in the circuit at the junction block.
   
4. The ammeter circuit is protected by two 20 gauge fusible links installed as molded splices in the circuit at the junction block and battery to starter circuit.
   

Other things it MIGHT be are the ignition switch, located on top of the steering column:


The other thing it MIGHT be is a faulty ignition cylinder (where your key goes into to start the K10).

Check the wire harness on the steering column also.

take a look at the wires on the top of your starter,

there should be a big main battery cable there, a small start wire, and a couple of fusible links.

the fusible links provide power to the rest of the vehicle, they are designed to fail if there is a short in the system, you can purchase fusible link at your local parts house it comes in a small roll, do not use regular wire for the repair you need the fire protection offered by the special link.

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