I have replaced clutch and concentrics on my volvo s40,had clutch for a while but now nothing can i bleed the clutch somewhere or set it?

If the clutch is engaging while you are pressing the pedal and you are losing fluid either the clutch master cylinder or the clutch slave cylinder is bad. If the fluid is leaking from the firewall on the drivers side its the clutch master cylinder. If the fluid is leaking from the transmission area its the slave cylinder.

possibly a blockage in the compensating port in the master cylinder
Take it to an accredited brake specialist shop for a proper diagnosis and quote
the problem will be in the hydraulics and not in the clutch plate area

I dont know but I guess its a hydraulic clutch operation and if so your problem is probably the slave cylinda leaking air or also quite probably the master cylinda short of fluid or again leaking air. system needs ot be blead to get it working if it happens again change the cylindas one at a time .

you need a scanner having your car's program and to do the alarm reset to reset the alarm.

The spring broke on my S40 clutch pedal too.
The old spring looks like a modified volvo part since none of the S40 clutch pedal springs at Volvo spares looks exactly the same as the one that broke. The one that broke looks similar to the replacement part that I bought, but one can clearly see that the old one was cut shorter at the other end and bent over to make it fit onto the clutch pedal mechanism. This is absolutely pathetic. I am taking it to Volvo to fix their rubbish themselves - and then they are still going to charge me R750 ($100) to replace a stupid spring! By the way, Volvo always wants the vehicle VIN number when buying spares because some of their cars (of the same year and model) use different parts - CAN YOU BELIEVE THIS! By the way, I am replacing the spring to pull the pedal all the way back - otherwise if I start the car in the mornings then the pedal is nearly on the floor when the car starts moving. If I pull the pedal back with my foot , then all is back to normal. I am scared that I may have no clutch after some time - so I will rather replace it.

Using J 36221, remove the clutch line from the concentric slave cylinder to depress the white plastic sleeve on the quick connect coupling to separate the clutch line from the concentric slave cylinder.

You'll need one of these! You can get them in a 6 piece set for about $10. at most any auto parts store!
There used on Fuel,A/C or Hydraulic lines by most auto manufacturers somewhere these days.

clutch hydraulics should be ok could be clutch plate sticking on input shaft splines i would drain and refill gearbox with correct grade of oil then try it try putting clutch down wait a few seconds before selecting reverse see if this helps you

may have to change clutch

Volvo Radiator, Thermostat and Sensors Your cooling system's temperature controls include all coolant temperature sensors, Volvo thermostat, Volvo radiator or expansion tank cap, cooling fan(s) and fan clutch (if equipped). These cooling system parts function primarily independent of the engine but control the engine either through cooling or by sending control signals to your Volvo's electronic systems.
The Volvo thermostat is a spring-loaded valve that opens and closes based on the temperature of the coolant flowing through it. A high temperature reading followed by a drop to normal temperature (or a continuously low temperature) is a common first sign of a sticking Volvo thermostat. However, many other conditions may cause these symptoms, so you need to know how to eliminate each possibility.
The Volvo radiator or expansion tank cap is also a spring-loaded valve reacting to system pressure. It serves to maintain proper system coolant level at predetermined pressures. It must always be replaced with an exact replacement cap with the same pressure setting. Never use other caps except for short-term emergencies!
A belt-driven fan blade for pulling air through the Volvo radiator is usually on the Volvo water pump pulley and should have a fan clutch to control it. The fan clutch allows the fan to turn with the belt at low engine speed and "free-wheel" at higher speeds. A bad fan clutch either doesn't allow the fan to spin at low speed (overheating in traffic) or doesn't allow it to free-wheel at high speed (potential overheating on highway or reduced gas mileage).
An electric fan can be either by itself (usually front-wheel drive) or auxiliary (used with a mechanical fan). Both types are controlled via a temperature sensor - in the Volvo radiator or upper Volvo radiator hose or on the Volvo thermostat or Volvo water pump housing. This sensor is usually an on/off type switch with a fixed temperature setting. (Some vehicles may have 2-3 settings for multi-speed fans.) This sensor is commonly called an "auxilliary fan switch".
Other common temperature sensors are: 1) gauge sender (variable output); 2) warning light sender (on/off type); 3) lambda and/or fuel injection sensor(s) (variable to control fuel injection settings); 4) thermo-time switch (cold start valve control). Your Volvo may have other sensors as well.
Temperature control is critical to both performance and emission control. Unfortunately, this system is the most difficult to troubleshoot without proper equipment and diagrams. It's even more difficult with computers that adjust timing, idle speed, vacuum and fuel delivery automatically to make up for potentially faulty temperature sensor signals.
Maintenance of your cooling system sensors is virtually impossible since there's nothing really to "maintain". Keeping them clean both internally (coolant replacement) and externally (engine cleaning) is the best way to ensure trouble-free driving. Checking and replacing all parts at the factory-recommended time or mileage limits helps as well

Volvo 2000 S40. Fantom starting problem. Went to the starter and has no power to soliniod. Will start for weeks then nothing.
Is this a module