SOURCE: my belt broke on my 2000 chevrolet tracker,need belt diagram
Should be 2 belts. Which one did you break?
If it is the larger one there is a tentioner to your left of the center of the engine as you are facing the engine, somwhat centered relative all the other stuff there. With everthing tight in the engine compartment it took me a couple of minutes to recognize it.
If it is the smaller fan belt, I had to take the fan off and adjusted it the old way, with a pry bar. Off to your right of the center of the engine as you face the engine there are 3 bolts kinda grouped together. I donot recall which one you loosen, but one of these will give you slack, use a pry bar to snug the beld up good, then tighten (while holding tight). Reassemble the fan.
Hope this helps.
SOURCE: 1998 chevy cavalier Alternator Drive Belt diagram
Check out this link... better than a diagram, a photo.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=309192
note: on my screen this guy's "purple" circle looks more like a light blue, maybe lavender.
SOURCE: I need the Diagram of a serpentine belt on 2001
With AC, I hope.
Testimonial: "Thanks so much! I had a difficult time finding this diagram. Will be replacing it when we do the waterpump in a few days. "
SOURCE: 4wd wont work on 1999 chevy tracker but front drive shaft is turning?
The locking hub control system is not engaging properly. On the 99 Tracker this is a compressed air system that consists of an air pump (compressor), electrical wiring to power and control the air pump, and air hoses that lead to an actuator inside the front differential housing. If there is a leak in the system the PCM will run the air pump for 10 seconds and then shut off, and your propeller shaft can turn all day long, but the front axles will remain free floating. Turn on your key, not your engine, and engage four wheel high. Go listen near the passenger front bumper for the air compressor. If you hear it, then the compressor control and the compressor itself are likely fine. If it shuts off after 10 secs or so, and your 4WD light isn’t on, the PCM timed out the compressor out and shut the compressor off to protect it. You will have to find the leak and fix it. If you are lucky, it’s the air line leading to the front differential; and not the air line inside the differential housing, or the air bladder in the locking actuator, which also resides inside the font diff. If the compressor shuts off and the 4WD light is on (this means the PCM did not shut the air compressor off due to timeout, so the pressure switch read 5-7 psi and the pump shut itself off), you likely don’t have a leak, and something mechanical has the actuator hung up inside the front differential. Lastly if you don't hear the compressor run at all, you either have a faulty compressor, or some sort of wiring problem in that circuit.....it could be as simple as a blown fuse. Good luck.
SOURCE: 2003 Chevy Suburban-replace alternator
Ok, Alternators are a breeze on these things. There are two bolts that hold it on, and 2 sets of wires. If you haven't taken anything apart yet, and the belt is still on it, here's what to do. You will want one of those rubber or elastic bungee cords, about 2 and a half feet long(this makes it easy). Hook that bungee cord to your hood somewhere, so that it hangs down. Hook the other end on the serpentine belt right next to the alternator pulley. If you need to prop the hood up with a stick or something to keep it up, do so. Pull up on the belt, and watch the pulleys. The one that probably has a plastic pulley on it that moves up and down(this is the tensioner) is the one that you'll put a deep well socket in the middle of with a ratchet, and turn counterclockwise. This will make the belt go loose. Now you can work the belt off the alternator pulley, and once you get it off, the bungee cord will keep it in place, so you don't have to look at the diagram. Otherwise, if it comes off, there is a sticker just under the hood either on the fan shroud or the radiator support that has the belt diagram. Now, you can disconnect the battery, pull the rubber boot down off the nut and post on the back of the alternator, remove the nut and wire, and then unhook the wire from the side of the alternator. Now, you can remove the two bolts that hold the alternator on. You Will need to pry the alternator off at this point, as it fits really tightly in place. A socket extension or a large flat screwdriver works really well for this. Once you get it off, put the new one on exactly as you took the old one off. Note, you will have to release your tension on the tensioner at some point; i just ease it down, or if I can pull it off, wedge it somewhere where it won't loosen very far. Remember, on the tensioner, you're not trying to take the nut off. All you're doing is using it to move the tensioner arm. That's all there is to this job. Sometimes it can be stubborn with the prying part, especially getting it into place. Hope this is what you're after, and if you need more info, leave a comment for me.
Testimonial: "Great advice on the bungee cord!! Well written advide and easy for a novice to follow. Thanks"
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