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Gather your reference material needed
& test the Ignition System
You have the internet
You have You Tube Video
You have Factory Service Manuals you need
to buy to work on vehicles
You have Auto Zone free stuff on their site
And more
Repair Shops have data bases, they can print you out
wiring diagrams & test procedures
What you can not do, is push & poke & wish & hope you
may find something
If you don't know the system your working on, you got nothing
No where to start your testing
Code P0322 states: Ignition/ Distributor Engine speed input circuit NO SIGNAL. the sensor is on the left side(as you sit in the vehicle) of the engine block near the transmission flange. Know this, codes do not tell you if the part is bad necessarily just where to look. Wires and connectors can fail too. I don't know how to test this sensor without a scan tool, the good kind. Which i don't have.
When ever you get a check light on your dash, you check for codes & resolve them first, before working on other problems
Use internet explorer or goggle & put OBD2 & your code # in. You will be reading stuff for days
I don't have Dodge Diagnostic Info avail at this moment & you did not give us the codes
You have to keep in mind there are PO Generic Codes The ones a Code Reader can access Then there are Manufacture Codes, which only Professional Scan Tool Software can see,etc
Without Factory Diagnostic Manuals & you can buy them, as I do, at Helm.Com your done,you need a repair shop
If you spend the big bucks it will be a steep & lifelong climb to learn how to work on your own vehicle,but it can be done,I'm in my 48th year & study every week,year round,sort of a hobby
Take the codes & go to manuals & their charts Then component test the items your directed to Codes do not tell you what is wrong Codes do not tell you to replace anything
Most common ABS item would possibly be a Wheel Speed Sensor,easy at home fix, unless you need to change the entire Brg hub assy,that isn't too bad, if you have some vehicle experience
It's the testing, that is what puts the brakes on everyone Not many folks can use a volt meter or know how components work.
First, installing aftermarket accessories like remote starts and alarm systems is asking for electrical problems with your vehicle. Those things are known to cause all kinds of problems including stalling, incorrect air/fuel ratio, and no-starts. Not to mention that the vehicle wiring harnesses usually get BUTCHERED in the process of installing them. They also make diagnosis of future problems (like stalling, no-starts, or computer fault codes) nearly impossible because the repair technician has no way of knowing if the aftermarket accessories are at fault or if it is being caused by a malfunction in the factory equipment.
Then, if you do not know where to start, it makes me question whether you should be messing with the electrical (and most likely, computer) circuits in your vehicle to begin with.
In addition to that, there is no way that anyone can help you to perform that task without having the instructions from the manufacturer of the system you are trying to install. Different systems tie in to different circuits in the vehicle. There is no way of knowing which vehicle circuits you are needing diagrams for. Did the system not come with instructions?
I have 2 recommendations for you:
1. Don't do it. If your vehicle is not equipped by the manufacturer with the options that you want, you are better off to save your money to buy a car that is.
2. If you choose to ignore recommendation number 1, I recommend that you seek the assistance of a qualified automotive repair technician in your area.
I see that you mentioned a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan in your other question. I assume this question is about the same vehicle.
The checkup will start from the fuse and relay in the power distribution center. A way to test the relays is swapping two relays of the same kind to check if that makes any difference. If relay and fuse are OK check the wiring to power distribution center, check the dimmer switch and the connection to BCM (the module under the dash).
Look what color it is. If it green it's the regular old fashion kind just buy the pre dilluted 50/50 blend. If the color is orangie- redish it's the new technology Synthetic anti freeze. Buy the apropriate jug. or Simply buy it from one of many autopart stores and ask the counter clerk. Yours is probably the orange red colored. Costs more but don't go cheap and put the green stuff in it will dry rot your heater core fast and then you'll have some problems.
If you can not trust a professional mechanic,
why would you trust someone on the internet
to guess without the vehicle to test?
You surely have had your share of Check Lights on
the dash of may vehicles,so you know what to do
Check for codes
Diagnose the System with the problem
Resolve/Repair
Bad luck can be fixed by educating your self
and finding a quality shop & staying with them &
building a relationship
That said you have to know how to deal with them
No road test,they have no interest,so leave
Ask friends where they go
You do the driving on the road test & the mechanic
rides along. How else would they know why your there?
You don't go to a different Doctor every time you need
one,so why don't you have the repair shop thing solved.
Sounds like you have replaced a number of different parts all dealing with different aspects of how a car can run. The first thing I would do before replacing anything else is to find out the source of the problem. Like are you getting fuel yo the injectors? do you have good fuel pressure? Are you getting spark to the spark plugs? stuff like that to narrow down the problem. You need 2 main things for an engine to run, Gas and GOOD spark. You also need airflow but an engine will kind of run if that is limited. I would like to help you so you don't buy anymore parts you don't need. I am an ASE certified master technician and I own a repair shop in Florida. Feel free to email me at [email protected]. Let me know the make, model & year of your vehicle, what you have done so far and why you decided to do those things. Also is it turning over (spinning) when you try to start it? What you have checked yourself as far as fuel or spark. I say this because you went from spark plugs to battery to gas tank which are all different aspects of the engine starting or running so i think if we could narrow it down a bit with some test to start to diagnose it, then i bet we could get you going. I have helped a lot of people this way and enjoy helping. I don't charge for it so there would be no cost. So I look forward to hearing from you and please be detailed as to any questions or answers so I can help better. Wish I could say just do this and it would be fixed but need to work on what the problem is first and then go from there.
To know for sure you need to do parasitic draw testing ! Not looking for a magical fix on here . has anyone ran into any issues that may cause drain, like glove box light switch etc,???? In my thrity years of repairing vehicles have seen a lot of thing's cause this problem .Back in the 80's when i first started at chevy dealer saw glove boxes stuff full ,to the point light would stay on . These day's more like a module not powering down when it's suppose to. Hooking up a amp meter between the neg. battery post and neg. cable an checking amp draw. If it's over 80 miliamps you have a draw on the electrical system. Pulling fuse's till the draw goes away . find what all that fues powers and isolate the different circuits till the draw goes away . That's kind of the long way now a days . There is a much easier way ,voltage drop testing accross the fuse's . The BEST Way TO Perform Parasitic Draw Test
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