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SOURCE: 1996 Ford Bronco door lock actuator
These directions might sound a little goofy. I'm trying to orient your
location with front and rear rather then left and right because it
depends on which door you are working on. Front is towards front of rig
and rear, oh I think you get it.
1. Close window on door.
2. Using a flat screw driver pop off trim under inside door handle. I
think there is a groove in the plastic to which the screw driver can be
inserted. Remove screw.
3. Using same screw driver pop off trim panel with door lock and window
control switches. Start lifting from end located at panel closest to
the front of the rig. The panel towards the back end has a pivot point
which holds the back of the panel into the arm rest. Dis-connect the
two switches from the trim panel.
4. Again, using flat screw driver, pop off the trim pannel located at
the upper door/window frame nearest the back of the rig. Remove screw.
5. Lift up the door panel to remove. Be careful the light bulb is
attached to the door panel. Rotate light socket 90 degrees and remove.
6. From the rear of the door pull back the platic stick-on barrier.
Don't remove the whole thing just pull it leaving about half of it
towards the front of the door stuck on.
7. Remove the one 11mm bolt, located towards the bottom of door, which
holds the rearwindow guide. Don't remove the two 11mm bolts which hold
the horizontal brace. Nothing else needs to be removed, leave all rods
and attachments in place. They all attach the the door latch and are
not of any further concern.
8. Now the easy part. The actuators and door latches are
separate components. The actuator slides onto the door latch via two
metal guides located on the door latch. The actuator is held into place
with a plastic locking tab. The locking tab is part of the actuator
housing. 9. This tab has to be pushed in to release actuator from
latch. 10. Find on ouside of door - rear where the latch fingers? (I
don't know what else to call them) are located in the notched door
frame. At the bottom of the notch is a very narrow opening, just a
****. This **** allows access to the locking tab on the actuator.
11. Orient the screw driver in the end of the **** closest to the
interior. Working on a right door, looking at the locking fingers,
facing the front of the rig, your screw driver would be inserted at the
left side of the ****. Pushing a flat screw driver into the **** will
push the locking tab allowing the actuator to slide off the door latch.
12. A flat screw driver or other small pry tool can be inserted between
the actuator and the door lock to help slide the actuator off the metal
guides. The pry unit can be inserted where the rod from the interior
manual door lock stem is attached. Mine had a yellow snap/flip keeper.
13. The actuator slides off from the interior towards the outside door
panel.
14. Simple put pressure onto the locking tab with one screw driver and
gently pry with the other one and the actuator should slide right off.
15. I picked up an actuator at a u-pull it wrecking yard for five bucks
and it worked fine. Dealer wanted $90.00 and auto parts wanted $127.00.
When I pulled my actuator from the wrecked rig all door panels and
interior where stripped. It took me literally 20 seconds to pull the
actuator. 16. To install new unit slide actuator onto door latch rails
and let locking tab click into place. You might have to manually move
the interior door lock stem up and down until the finger on the
actuator lines up with a hole on the plastic part of the interior lock
stem.
16. I Want to thank TommyRox in Texas on Ford Truck World and rivguy on automotiveforums.com for their posts.
SOURCE: 1997 ford explorer rear driver side door won't open
Pull the panel off starting at the top, you can just pry the window control apart, you don't need to unscrew that part. I sprayed white grease (lubriplate) all around the door latch inside there, and it unlatched easy.
After I put it back together, the knob still doesn't rise as high as the other side. I think the linkage is binding, and the connecting rod is bent. At least if the door won't unlock with the button you can do it by hand.
SOURCE: 2003 Explorer door ajar light stay on when all doors are closed
I had this problem on my 2003 explorer and took WD40 and gave the lock mechanism a good dose where it meets the clasp on the door jam. Then open and close the doors a couple of times to get them working. They get gummed up and sometimes have a tendency to stick.
SOURCE: Tribute passenger door will not unlock
this ones trick but ive done it. you have to carfully pry back the top part of the door panel and you should get enogh room for a small arm to fit in and manuall pull up on the relese lever for the latch to the door then you can take the door apart for inspection
SOURCE: Door locks on Ford Expedition stuck
Look under your steering wheel right under the dash. There should be a small white strip with 5 numbers. This is your master code for your vehicle. If you bought the car used and they give you a code, they could have made their own code, but the master will override it. If this don't help, the module for the doors may be going bad.
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