A friend arrived with a serious misfire issue.
He just had the 2.6 replaced in his camaro but complained that it was running very rough.
The engine was installed, but nobody knew exactly what the engine came out of. blazer, s10, etc
I put a timing light on it and it was a mile away, but the slightest adjustment turning the dist would kill the car.
He told me the guy that installed the engine spent several hours constantly swapping the plug wires around on the cap until the engine would continue to run......but it was still banging and popping.
I've been tooling on cars for 30 years and knew the timing was way off.
To sort it out, I opted to pull the cap and a plug #1 being pass front cylinder on the camaro of that year
As I felt the compression stroke/air force past my finger plugging the SP hole, I saw the rotor pointing at the driver side front cylinder.
That was just about the same time we noticed there were 2 more timing lines on the balancer. one of the 3 is slightly wider.
I spun the engine several more rotations and could never get TDC on the front pass cylinder with the timing mark on the balancer to line up on the timing indicator.
I looked through alldata and tons of googling and see that the #1 cylinder is the front pass.
I ran across a few that showed the front driver cylinder as being #1, so I went for that one.
The rotor would point back to the pass side as the driver front came to TDC.
I pulled the dist with front DS cylinder at TDC and replanted with the rotor not pointing nearly to that cylinder.
Installed the wires properly 123456 and the car started right up,,,,,but still has some bang and pop. detonation
it's currently set up from front to back, driver side 1,3,5 and pass side 2,4,6, #1 at TDC, rotor pointed at #1, and the 123456 on the cap in a clockwise position.
Should I try to go back to making #1 on the pass side front?
Whats the deal with 3 different timing marks on the balancer?
The timing has to be set right between the cam the crankshaft and the rotor during assembly, sounds like the cam or crank is off.
SOURCE: car runs fine until warmed
Sound like you may have a catalytic converter plugging up. Take it to a muffler shop and have them check it for you.
How long has this been going on? Could be a bad tank of gas... do you fill up at good stations like Chevron or the cheap Mexican ones? Also if you filled up when the tanker truck was filling the station you may have ended up with a tank full of sediment; there's a lot of gunk in their underground tanks and when the tanker tops it off the filling action stirs up a lot of that ****. Try filling the tank with some high-quality 87 octane (91 will make it worse) after putting a bottle of fuel system cleaner in the tank. You should also try pulling the codes; some codes do not cause the check engine light to illuminate but are still stored by the PCM. If all else fails, go back to the basics... fuel, spark and pressure. If you can eliminate two you should be able to make your job easier.
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