I have a 1984 ford e-150..new battery...alternator tested good 2 times...new v

It sounds like you have done a whole lot of replacing and not much "diagnosing". Did you chech for battery voltage at the alternator? There should be battey voltage at the large Black/Orange wire that is on the B+ terminal of the alternator. This wire should have voltage all the time. If there is no battery voltage, you most likely have a burned fusible link at the starter relay area.
There should also be voltage at the "S" terminal with the ignition on. If there is no voltage, then check for voltage at the "S" terminal of the voltage regulator. If there is no voltage at the "S" terminal on the voltage regulator then check the "I" terminal on the regulator for voltage.

NOTE: The voltage on the "S" terminal should be 1/2 that of the voltage on the "I" terminal.

If there is voltage on the "I" terminal, make sure your voltage regulator is grounded properly to the fender and retest to see if it is charging the battery. If it is still not charging, disconnect the regulator connector and connect a jumper between the "A" and "F" terminals of the connector. Start the engine. The alternator should now be charging the battery at high voltage (usually over 15 volts) If it does, replace your voltage regulator. If it does not, then you need to check your wiring between the voltage regulator and the alternator.

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The first thing you need to do is stop wasting your money by replacing parts. Then get a volt-ohm meter and a test light to test the circuits between the battery, the alternator, the ignition switch, the starter relay and the voltage regulator. (a.k.a. Charging System Circuits)

To start, the "B+" or "BATT" terminal on the alternator (large black wire) MUST have a solid, direct connection to the battery. Check for the proper voltage here. Then, the red wire on the alternator at the "F2" terminal should be HOT at all times. If not, you probably still have a bad fuse link that you missed. The "F1" terminal on the alternator (Light Green wire) is known as your "FIELD" wire. It comes from the "IG" terminal at the voltage regulator. It should be hot any time the key is in the ON position. If not, your voltage regulator is not working or your ignition switch is not providing power to the regulator. Finally, The "F" terminal (Red wire) at the regulator should be hot any time the ignition switch is in the ON position. This actually gets it's power from the starter relay, which gets its power from the ignition switch.

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the voltage regulator is built into the alternator,have you check the alternator connector for damage or corrosion check with a test light for voltage at the red wire that plugs into the alternator that is in the 2 wire plug connector as well as check the large red wire for voltage as this wire is the feed wire from the battery.you don`t say if this is a new or used alternator.if you have a voltmeter that is the best way to check for the proper amount of voltage at the test sites.the battery must have a minimum of 12.6 volts to start with higher is better.to test the voltage regulator need the engine running and you need a voltmeter to tell properly if it is working.at the back of the alternator their is a hole that looks like the letter D this is where you use something like a cotterpin and insert it into the hole you should feel a tab,push lightly on the tab and ground the cotterpin to the side of the alternator using the voltmeter you should see the voltage start to rise and hear it start to charge.the battery voltage and the feed wire at the alternator as well as the smaller red wire at the plug connector should be the same.charging voltage should be about 14.5 volts.

If your still having this problem after replacing all of that you either have a short on that wire or on the starter after the solenoid. I would check the starter.

if it is not charging -- then the problem is the alternator. check the alternator ( at the alternator ) for output. if there is voltage there - then the problem is the wires between the alternator and the battery. this could be the voltage regulator ( if it is not a internally regulated alternator ). or it could just be a bad wire.
now if it turns out to be the alternator -- replace it with a internally regulated alternator,,, this will help simplify things in future diagnostics.

c...

a low battery in you meter could cause a higher reading. I've seen this before. Other than that the regulator is not working perfectly if its over charging or if you have a battery that will not hold a charge'

sounds like a shorted field in the alternator

Are the connections really dirty at the voltage regulator? These tend to get corrosion on them and cause weird charging system issues. Also make sure the ground is good on the regulator.

Ok lets see
The charge ligth or sistem is operating properly ligth, or not
1) check for pwer, in the Alternator positive terminal, shoul be power all time ingnition Off or On dont matter
2) Check for ingnition controled power in the another wires that going to the other connector in the alternator, beside the + batery

If do you find power in both test you should take the alternator to the autoparts store to be cheked, but if any of those test fail, check you wiring harness, the

Hi,
Ok then lets start right from the beginning, what to check for:
-- loose battery connection pos and neg
-- loose or broken wires on the alt
-- loose alt belt
-- you said that you had the alt and battery tested? that was a load test?
-- battery could be just no good even if its new, that's why I asked if a load test was done, and the output of the alt is ok?

Try these please let me know then we can go from there.

Cheers