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Hyundai excel 97, single cam. repeated sudden loss of power. Have replaced new battery and alternator. car was going great, lights bright next day difficult start. 20 m down the road, sudden loss of power, weak battery, starting to stall, lights weak, dash lights weak. So lights turned off; suddenly full power again, able to get home. Now battery flat again, recharging in progress. Would appreciate input
Eureka. 100v fuse must have been dodgy/ melted around connection; replaced. Car jump started with battery pack. +ve Battery terminal removed and car still running, therefore alternator sweet. Reconnected and re starting time after time. Appreciate input from Fixya experts, kudos +++Eureka. 100v fuse must have been dodgy/ melted around connection; replaced. Car jump started with battery pack. +ve Battery terminal removed and car still running, therefore alternator sweet. Reconnected and re starting time after time. Appreciate input from Fixya experts, kudos +++
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Are you sure the battery is being drained during this process? That would be a major draw from something, but then you said "...suddenly full power again,". It sounds more like a connection or a terminal working loose at times, not able to pass normal voltage. You sure need a voltmeter, my friend.
I think I would want to have that new alternator tested again, just to make sure it is not defective. A lot of aftermarket parts are turning up like that. Did you replace the alternator and battery because this condition was present? Do you know your battery cables and ground points are all good and secure, and corrosion free? You might want to double check all the grounds you can find- the battery negative cable, the engine to body strap, or cable, maybe an engine and computer harness ground point-look around the top of the engine for a ground wire coming out of the engine wire harness and going to ground at a nearby bolt. Also check all alternator connections.
If you have to keep looking, look at the power side of the power distribution scheme. From the battery, power goes to the Power Distribution Center, maybe called a junction box or junction block...it is where the fuse and relay block under the hood receives power, both from the battery and the tie-in from the alternator, and then distributes it to the major circuits for the car. With all your symptoms, it sounds like the problem is not far from the battery in the power distribution. Sayeth Dr. monte. Good luck.
I would add, heat is a good indicator of high resistance in a circuit or in a connection. A loose or corroded terminal will have high resistance to current flow-it won't pass voltage good, so it gets hot. If a battery posts get hot, or if any terminal or electrical connection feels very hot, suspect high resistance there-a poor connection.I would add, heat is a good indicator of high resistance in a circuit or in a connection. A loose or corroded terminal will have high resistance to current flow-it won't pass voltage good, so it gets hot. If a battery posts get hot, or if any terminal or electrical connection feels very hot, suspect high resistance there-a poor connection.
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On most 12v cars,the #1 cause is a light left on somewhere in the vehicle.#2 cause is a bad diode in the alternator and #3 is a bad battery which self discharges and is usually over 5 years old.
An easy first step is to disconnect the charged battery over night.If it still has a full charge the next morning,after you reconnect it and if the car starts,you can rule out the battery as the culprit.Now,if the battery passed the first test,now we go onto #2 test and disconnect the alternator output wire from the alternator overnight.If the battery still has a full charge the next day we will now know the alternator has a bad diode and will need to be repaired/replaced.If the battery was found to be low on charge the next morning with the alternator disconnected we will now have to go on to test #3 to find the drain in the vehicle. Disconnect the positive battery cable and place a 12v regular bulb type test light between the positive cable and the battery positive post.You should have a bright light on the test light if you have a drain in the vehicle from the battery.(don't worry about a dim light as electronics need a little memory voltage) We are looking only for a bright light.With the key off (as it would be overnight) you are now going to remove one fuse at a time while watching the brightness level of the test light.Take one fuse out, look at the light and if no change in brightness put the fuse back in and on to the next fuse,one by one until you see the light go out or dim.The fuse that dims or removes the bright test light will be the circuit that is draining your battery.Now you have your "battery drain" circuit identified and can inspect/repair the item/items on that circuit.
REMEMBER an open door,trunk or hood may cause a FALSE bright light on your test light because of courtesy light switches and alarm switches so manually close those switches if you need to keep one of the doors or hood/trunk open to gain access to the multiple fuse boxes in many vehicles.
DO NOT TURN ON THE KEY during this test, as all power to the vehicle is now going through the test light and things won't be happy if you do.
cranks but will NOT start.
what was changed only makes it harder , as new parts can be bad.
guessing is real bad.
guessing can very easily compound (and confound) any problem.
crank sensor will cause similar stalling issues. You may have got a bad alternator, if the battery light is on after you jump it, probably needs a new, new alternator. make sure all your connections are tight and plugged in, both on battery and alternator.
The alternator is going out,now,the alternator can be bad,or the voltage regulator,in the computer(on this vehicle),Have the alternator checked out,13.65 volts,to 14.25 volts is what it needs to be,with the headlights on,and ac,high blower setting,it needs to be checked,at the battery with the engine running,and these components on.
I'm having same problem on my 2000 model rodeo 4wd 3.2L V6. Other day check engine light came on. I checked engine bay nothing abnormal, or power loss. Next day light was gone. 2 days later driving, a sudden loss of power and light came up. After idling for a couple of minutes, drove off with light still on but all power back. 1 hour later of faultless driving loss of power for a minute or so. Engine temp normal. Had break for 1/2 hour and set off for last hour of journey without fault except check engine light still on. Following dayon startup light went out???
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Sorry, your plan sounds like it's worth the money but there's no way for me to send dollars out of this country (Venezuela), so my only hope is that you can post a solution for me on your site. Thanks in advance
Eureka. 100v fuse must have been dodgy/ melted around connection; replaced. Car jump started with battery pack. +ve Battery terminal removed and car still running, therefore alternator sweet. Reconnected and re starting time after time. Appreciate input from Fixya experts, kudos +++
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