1st 48 degrees is not cold enough, the outlet temp should be at least 38-42, so either the system is overcharged or undercharged (either condition will cuase this), when u converted it did u put in 85% as many ounces as the old system called for, R134 is denser than R12 so it takes less to fill the system
Goodyear is right on the reason the air blows to then defrost outlets (if u check this u will see that this is where the airflow diverts to) when u accelerate, this is caused by a loss of vacuum from the engine, there are a few possibilities for this, one is the AC vacuum reservoir canister under the hood is leaking or the vacuum line to it from the engine is leaking, the others poss causes are the vacuum line to the AC control head in the dash is leaking or restricted, the other poss is that the vacuum mode control switch in the dash AC control is leaking vacuum, but in any case it is a loss of vacuum causing this.
yes it could.
and yes a vacuum check valve can cause this problem as well.
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The blower keeps blowing but the flow is diverted elsewhere at time of acceleration is this correct.?
There is/should be a check valve in main source line to control panel, which have been known to fail. Have you located the main vacuum line going through firewall to your control panel as of yet?
As far as IAC goes, one easy way to check that is to remove it, spray the pintle (pointed part)& shaft with carb cleaner or throttle body spray cleaner, as well as the hole (port) it came out of & see if it makes any difference. If it cures it for a while , then start to do same again, replace IAC motor.
Have you read other comment about check valve & vacuum line.?
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Conversions from R-12 to R134A won't give the same performance as the
compressor you're converting has been designed for R-12 and some drop
in performance should be expected. Whenever converting from R-12 to R134A, it's important to completely evacuate the system of R-12. The combination of the two refrigerants will compromise the performance of your Ac system. There's also a possibility, that if the system hasn't been evacuated (by a HVAC machine) the system has improper pressure and will fail on occasion. Test the low side pressure. It should read in the 40-45 psi range. If it's low, it may require more refrigerant. If it tests above 45psi, you may have overfilled it, not only impacting the performance of the system but over time will cause damage to the AC and components. Hope you found this answers your question. Best of luck.
Greg
Make sure the AC plug to the compressor is clean and tight. Make sure the compressor is engaging when it doesn't work.
Let me know what you find.
Your description sounds like a possible
compressor failure and it may be beyond your skill set my friend. I
also wish to point out that the A/C systems in cars are under high pressure and repairs to the system should be carried out by an experienced technician with certifications.
Your description sounds like a possible
compressor failure and it may be beyond your skill set my friend. I
also wish to point out that the A/C systems in cars are under high pressure and repairs to the system should be carried out by an experienced technician with certifications.
So far, it's been impossible to find a
replacement pulley assembly for my 2000 Jeep Cherokee with a bad a/c
pulley bearing. Your best bet is to pull the pulley off the pump and
either get the bearing out yourself or have it removed by someone. Give
Buffalo Bearings a call (1800-669-8019 (716) 874-1720 Fax (716)
874-3063) and tell them what bearing you have. y.
A plenum, in air handling jargon, is the air
filled space between the heat exchanger(s) and the occupied area that
is climate controlled. In your example, the plenum should have a drain
hole at it's lowest point for the condensation from the A/C evaporator
to be jettisoned or over boarded as it were. Look for a plastic box
that is mounted up against the fire wall and search for a vent or port
that may be occluded.
It sounds like it needs recharged.
If you were to place cardboard under the car, what section of the engine compartment is the coolant coming from?
If you were to place cardboard under the car, what section of the engine compartment is the coolant coming from?
Check to make sure no vacuum lines are off under
the hood. Also, listen for hissing sounds with the engine running that
would indicate a vacuum leak. Also, check under the dash for the same.
The vents are actuated by vacuum and if you lost it, you may be stuck
between settings.
Your description sounds like a possible
compressor failure and it may be beyond your skill set my friend. I
also wish to point out that the A/C systems in cars are under high
pressure and repairs to the system should be carried out by an
experienced technician with certifications.
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don't hear any hissing and checks for vacuum leaks reveal nothing...I do have another intermittent problem that may be related...periodically, when I start the car, the engine will rev at 2500-3000 rpms for minutes on end...sometimes this will stop after 2-3 minutes...other times I have to turn car off and wait before restarting...someone mentioned the IAC valve that is part of the vacuum system as a potential source of the problem...maybe I need to check all vacuum sensors as both problems may related...
also, someone suggested a possible problem with the check valve that is located in a vacuum line leading from the intake manifold to the vacuum line that goes through the firewall...sound plausible?
great info...goodyear also says that the engine vacuum pressure (?) should be 18-21 but is registering at 14-15...would this effect the vacuum effect in the a/c?
yes...blower keeps producing air flow but it is diverted to defrost...
thank you for the comments
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