Question about 2001 Jeep Cherokee

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Check Engine light flashes and car vibrates

Everytime I drive my 01 jeep cherokee for mulitple stops, the check engine light flashes and my car shakes when I start driving. It doesn't do it when its stopped. Its hard for any mechanic to diagnose it because it doesn't happen for them. It only happens after you drive it for a while and the engine is plenty warm.

Posted by dancinfool20 on

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  • dancinfool20 Jan 02, 2009

    The guy that i took it took it to said that the diagnostics said that it was the third chamber pressure was low...sorry not very mechanically minded! He also had to do something because the fuel tank was getting heated.

  • dencoindy Mar 01, 2009

    Same deal here.2000 jeep 4.0 .flashing engine light,po300 code.random multiple cyl. misfire.also code for o2 sensor,replaced front sensor on cat,Iguess ill start with plugs and coil pack.I love my 68 triumph gt6.I can fix it in my sleep!this jeep causes a lack of sleep!

  • timt1963 Mar 17, 2009

    I have the same issue on a 2001 Jeep.
    I replaced the engine with a rebuilt long block.
    After 60,000 miles, this issue started.
    I don,t believe there is carbon build up as the old engine had 180,000 miles on it, and I had no issues.
    I changed the coil pack last night, and I still have the same issue.
    Blinking engine light, and the codes are # 3 & # 4 mis-fire.
    I can smell the gas in the exhaust fumes.
    I was warned not to drive it when the light is blinking, as this dumps raw fuel into the cadilitic converter which could blow up.
    The next step I am going to do, is pull the # 3&4 plugs after the light blinks and see if my plugs are wet.
    This will confirm I have no spark & have mis-fires.
    Is this correct thinking ?

  • Anonymous Apr 28, 2009

    This just happened to me. I also noticed that the Oil meter was not staying steady.

  • sl7020
    sl7020 Nov 16, 2012

    Same exact thing on my 05 Jeep. According to dealership my catalytic converter needs to be replaced? I also notice that the problem disappears in the summer months. Has solutions posted helped anyone?

  • Anonymous Mar 22, 2014

    My engine light has been on for awhile but it seems to stay on and then turns off.



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The only scenario I am familiar with that causes a blinking or flashing Check Engine Light is misfires. Your description of the car shaking is another sign of possible misfires as well. There could be other issues, it would be helpful to know what codes are getting set. However, with the flashing check engine light and the shaking of the car the first thing I would do, if it hasnt been done in a while, is a tune up. Replace the plugs to start. I believe you have a distributorless ignition meaning that you have coil packs instead of a distributor.

Your coil pack sits on top of the plugs. Look to the left side of the engine, just at the bottom of the valve cover and you will see (assuming you have the 4.0L 6-cylinder engine) a series of three humps. Those three humps is your coil packs and there should be four bolts that hold it in. Take out those four bolts, pry up the coil pack and then you will have access to replace the spark plugs.

While your at it, Id replace the fuel filter, air filter and other general maintenance/tune up items like that.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009



Kate E

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I have actually had this happen to me. It first started last winter, and it took me a couple of months and a few no-starts to figure out what it might be. I don't know where you live, but if you are in a climate where the gas stations change their fuel blend from summer to winter blend, this is probably your problem. My jeep was having starting problems after I had been driving and after checking my codes from the check engine light, all I could figure out was random misfires. I replaced the plugs and the same thing kept happening. I decided to change gas stations and went to a BP. They didn't change their fuel blend to winter mix, and my jeep has run great ever since. That would be my first suggestion to you...find a gas station that you don't normally use or one somewhere that doesn't change their blend, and see if your jeep will run normally again.

Posted on Jan 06, 2009


Curt Downs

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Have any of the mechanics used a scan tool to check for engine trouble codes? If not, bring it to a parts store, where most will do it as a free service. Write down the codes, ask what they mean and what to do to fix the problem. If u have any further questions, u can post them here. Oh, and if the mechanics didn't scan for trouble codes, find a new mechanic. Let me know how u make out.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009


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Try what Kate said (an excellent suggestion,even if you wouldn't think your choice of gas station would DOES,stick to good name brands) but I will add, if it doesn't improve, these '01's are known for having fuel pump issues, and if your not getting a consistent pressure you'll have to drop the tank,and change it our{along w/the filter which is in there also},use a high quality replacement,such as Bosch(had good luck w/theres}
BEFORE you do that though,I'm going to include a ground guide I got from a Jeep forum,unfortunately I can't post pictures w/it.You'd be surprised how many times its just a simple ground problem,just foxed an intermittent problem on my '00 by that.---

1. I'd also freshen the engine grounds as all electrical life starts with solid grounds.

Spark: 12 volts from ignition switch to the ASD relay; when the key is first turned on the PCM provides a ground to the ASD relay to energize it, then the ASD relay passes 12 volts to the coil primary side. If no crank sensor signal is generated after a couple of seconds the PCM cuts the ground to the ASD relay (and fuel pump relay too) and that cuts power to the coil (and fuel pump). Key to START and once again the PCM energizes the ASD relay. Now, a critical element is the crank sensor--no signal from the crank sensor and the PCM won't trigger the coil to provide spark.

Grounds can be the root cause of many electrical gremlins. Refreshing grounds is NEVER a bad idea, and the investment of your time in this procedure is always well worth it!

You can't tell much of anything by looking at ground connections!! You must remove, scrape, clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt to. Be sure to remove all paint from any ground connections.

Start with the one on the back corner of the head, and where it attaches to the firewall, as it deteriorates over time and is an area that makes it susceptible to damage. Best to replace that woven cable with a #4 or #2 gauge cable. You can attach the one end to the intake manifold if you would like.

Next go over to the engine dipstick tube stud. Remove the nut and clean the wire ends and scrape the block until shiny at the stud. Reattach tightly.

If you are so inclined, add at least a #6 cable from the negative terminal of your battery to one of the bolts on your radiator support.

Posted on Nov 26, 2014

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