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I'm not sure if you have all of the info you need to go forward with this. The battery may be rated for 800 amps but could have less than 12 volts if the alternator is not charging it. It could have a dead cell which would keep it from holding a charge. You would need to check the charge of the battery with a volt meter, then see if the alternator is charging at 14 volts when the engine is running. The battery should be at least 12 volts with the engine off. The problem could be in the wiring from the key switch or dash gauges back to the alternator.
the battery light comes on to indicate there is a problem with the charging system not necessarily the battery. Most commonly the alternator is bad when the battery light is illuminated. You can confirm this with a volt meter at the battery. you should see 13.5 volts+ with the engine running. If it is less and more like 12.2 or so than the alternator is not charging.
Is this the v-6 engine and is it all wheel drive? If so this is not a do it yourself friendly alternator to replace. Even after pulling the drive axle and half shaft the alternator needs to be in a specif position in order to fit through the opening left by the removed drive axe.
If you have any more questions I'll be happy to answer them. Just let me know!
If the alternator has been bench tested and passed then you need to check the big wire for 12volts at the alternator. If you have 12 volts then you need to trace the other wire to the PCM. The charging system is computer controlled and its possible the computer is the issue. To diagnose this correctly go to mitchell1diy online and pay the ten bucks for all the proceduers and wiring diagrams. If the charging system light is off then try this. Charge up the battery. Then turn the lights on for a couple minutes to drain the surface charge. Then using a 12v meter hooked to the battery check the draining voltage while cranking. A good battery will maintain a 12 or better voltage even if the truck does not start. If it goes down fast then the battery is bad. Alot of times when a battery is tested using a professional tester they pass. You may need to remove the fuel pump relay so the truck does not start for this test since your testing the cranking amps. Also with the key out of the ignition and doors locked and the negative unhooked at the battery you can check for parasitic drain. Using a amp meter hooked up inline battery to cable you should have less than 1/10th volt. If any more then you have a component not shutting off. Pull fusses 1 at a time till you find the system thats the issue. Watch the meter as you pull fuses
If you get the car running and your vehicle does not cut out, place a volt meter (Set on DC) on the positive and negative terminals of the battery while its running. it should read *Above* 12v (usually 13.5 - 14, sometimes just higher then 12, that shows its charging.) if it is reading less then 12 then your alternator is toast. Replace what is needed.