How many miles on car, 50k or 300k, a key factory.
my clutches last over 150k, i baby em. but was it ever changed out?
and when, (miles)
i missed this post. my guess , fixed already......????
only 4th, only up shift or down shift or both.
at what RPM and speed MPH, ?
if reverse never grinds the clutch is ok. (its loves to due to non syncho status)
reverse is the canary gear, like in coal mines. dig?
4th gear has this magic device called a syncronizer
its a brass ring that matches speeds of the shift dogs.
the ring is removed on race cars to make the box stronger
and we double clutch it like a 1960s truck driver (me)
my point here is if you have driven both , you know what they do and
why, the match gear speeds, if not, it grinds.
for a synchronizer to work right the clutch must fully disengage.
100% !
this clutch has a master cylinder and fluid, does fluid keep dropping
? level, yes, that is bad master and/or slave clutch, causing
clutch drag as this progresses, (worse) more gears will drag
in fact your 4th gear might be just the weaker of them all, but still good.
open hood, see MC ,no that is brakes, we want the Clutch MC.
fluid fill jar there, see it , off the cap, is the fluid low, better start
checking fluids now, every 2 weeks, huh, like the book says.
THE MC = Master cylinder for the clutch
this device, will fail, about 100k miles. (it gets big torture, in city)
and will start dropping fluid, (it or slave leaks)
the clutch will become more random in function and proceed to worse
this is true for all cars with this hydraulic clutch actuator .
what i do is replace both MC and slave. (at first sign of fluid drop)
bleed it
its is self calibrating. no adjustments.
i do that so i can know its done and not worry it.
on my jeep its made as one... so i have no choices.
the MC will leak down both sides of fire wall. (big clue1)
the slave leaks driving and most likely no signs. (steath failure)
SOURCE: how do you change a rear main oil seal in a 2000 toyota celica gt
First of all, be certain that the leak is in fact from that seal. many leaks travel to that area.
To change the seal is fairly involved, you need to pull the trans and flywheel. There are some specialzed tools involved. Do you have manual or automatic? Manual requires clutch plate alignment on re assembly, by the way , if manual, be sure to change the release bearing and pilot bearing at minimum. Commonly it would make sense to change the clutch during this process....you're already all the way in there..
SOURCE: 2000 Celica GT driver door lock
it could be the door lock acuator going bad it could have a intermittent short
SOURCE: 2002 celica GTS Transmission makes
There may be several reasons for this. 1st, low transmission fluid levels can cause the gears to grind while shifting due to lack of lubrication. I would suggest checking the fluid level, there is a plug located on the side, in about the middle of the transmission which when removed should slowly seep oil from it. If it doesn't then you will need to add the recommended transmission fluid.
2nd, a maladjusted clutch can cause the same problem. Even though you have the clutch pedal to the floor, the clutch pressure plate may not be completely disengaging from the flywheel. This will cause pressure on the gears and synchronizers while trying to shift. I suggest having the clutch adjusted by a mechanic if you have never performed this function yourself. An inproper adjustment can severely shorten the life of the clutch.
The 3rd option may be a warn clutch component like the slave cylinder if equipped, the throwout bearing or even the pressure plate itself.
A visual inspection can be made of the clutch by removing the inspection plate from the bottom of the bell housing to view the flywheel and clutch. With someone depressing the clutch you should be able to see the clutch moving off the flywheel.
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