A couple weeks ago my check engine light came on. Ever since then it seems that my temperature gauge is only working occaissionally. The temp warning light comes on and the temp gauge just stops working. I have replace the battery and the barometric pressure sensor, but the issue continues. The thermostat is new as is the radiator, and the car doesn't overheat... I was watching a video and noticed that there's supposed to be a ground wire on one of the bolts that holds the barometric pressure sensor in place, but this ground wire seems to be missing completely from my vehicle. Could this missing ground wire be causing my issue, and if so, can I just make a new ground?
Hi there,
My name is Steve. I can tell you that the barometric pressure sensor can, in no way, effect the temperature gauge operation. The gauge gets a signal from the engine computer which, in turn, gets a reading from the coolant temperature sensor. Your first step should be to have the check engine light diagnosed properly...starting with checking for codes. You likely have a code(s) relating to engine temperature or the temperature sensor circuit. Most common problems are erratic sensor operation and corrosion or oil contamination in the coolant temperature sensor connector. You will be time and money ahead by having a professional diagnose the problem correctly before deciding to buy any parts.
SOURCE: 2004 pacifica radiator overheats every couple
A fan is on or off not slow do any fans in your house run slow because they are old?Your thermostat fan or temp sensor is bad
SOURCE: My 1997 Sebring overheats while in idle but
does it overheat going down the road if not check to see if radiator fan(s) is running when it heats up at idle car needs fan to run cool at idle but not while going down road
SOURCE: I have 2004 cruiser. check engine light on, tmp
Did you replace temperature sensor on water cooling system?
SOURCE: overheating
Ok, here is what I have found with the overheating problem with my 2002 PT Cruiser. I have got all the symptoms that everyone else has gotten form, it heats then cools down, gets hot when it idles, gets hot when AC is turned on. The bottom line here is that it gets hot when it is not going down the road or it may raise a little then go back to normal. This is what I have found after a new water pump, radiator, thermostat, cooling fan. What is happening is that the engine or radiator are starting to collect what I like to call calcium particles. so when the particles break loose they circulate around in the cooling system, when the radiator cap opens to let water out to the recory bottle these particles go out with it, however when the cap closes and tries to seal the radiator back up the particles get stuck under the seal therefor the radiator never pressurizes and continues to let water out filling up the recovery bottlle and then boiling over. I have proved this theory several times (and you can too) by letting the car cool down after a overheating tantrum and removing the radiator cap. Look at the rubber seal and i will bet you find these calcium particles built up on it not letting the cap reseal. I have cleaned the cap and put it back on and driven sometimes 2-3 days without a problem. The reason the temp will go up and down at times is because it deoends on whether or no the coolant has washed all the particles away when it opens and closes. Do a heavy duty and thorough cleaning of the cooling system making sure to get these particles out and you should be fine.
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