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Tranny sensors going bad and with the smoke black is oil white is water and electrical but you will smell this too with burning shielding blueish tinge is a/c
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most likely a manual gear box is it
jumping out of gear indicates the the gear is
not properly engaged --adjust linkages
check gear lever for obstructions in mounted on the tunnel
loose /incorrectly tensionedd bell housing bolts
failed rear engine mounts
drive line vibrations
or possible badly worn gear teeth
jumping out of gear is when the mating gears are not exactly in line and the slight angle makes one gear walk out of mesh with the other.
starting on very cold mornings ,the engine will run at high rpms (just like you have a choke on) and then will after a minute or two return to idle rpms( most cars is around 850-900)
If you have a hydraulic clutch and you have never changed the fluid then I suggest that you have it done as the fluid is probably freezing the water content in it ( brake fluid is hygroscopic-- attracts moisture from the air)
Check the linkage adjustments for dirt and other foreign objects stopping full movement or if the lever is direct into the top of the box then check the gear lever pivot at the top of the box for loose or adjustment.
If you have a cable clutch ,consider replacing the cable.
no 4-3 or 3-2 downshift uncontrolled downshifts outside range of kickdown switch poor acceleration from stopped position parking pawl will not engage selector lever does not engage in r or p engine will not start in p or n position smoke in exhaust (fluid loss) fluid loss between torque converter & primary pump howling noise when changing gears (under full load) howling noise which increases as engine rpm increases 1st gear & reverse too loud 3rd gear too loud rattling noise at 1500 rpm in all positions except r light grinding noise in p & n positions rolling noises when driving in reverse vacuum control circuit Vacuum Control Valve (E300D & S350D) Vacuum Amplifier (E300D & S350D)
everything is possible..............but before installing please check the certain positions and points.. 1. engine mounting positions. 2. gear mounting positions. 3. drive axle positions. 4. gear lever position.
and then if you find the fissibility fine thenn further go for the change
Identifing the smoke color tells you where it is coming from. Black smoke comes from fuel, so it is running rich or not fully igniting the mixture. White smoke comes from oil and often happens under very heavy engine load. On acceleration this could be the piston rings allowing blow-by, on deceleration this could be the valve seals leaking. Blueish smoke is often coolant, indicating a head gasket leak.
You didn't state iof this happens during a moving gear change, or if it has happened since you physically changed some of the gears in the car. On a TDi, I would follow the factory recommendations for all engine lubricants and additives.
the engine mount has faled and it put pressure on the transmission line and broke a plastic clip that holds it in the transmission the smoke is the transfluid hitting the exhaust making it smoke dont drive it can tear up transmission or fire
Sounds like the shift lever is not coming completely out of 2nd gear. So, by shifting into 1st gear, you recenter the shift lever. You can confirm this by going under the truck and moving the 1st - 2nd lever on the side of the transmission with your hand. If the shifter goes into reverse after you manually recenter the 1-2 lever, then you need to correct the problem that prevents the "normal" recentering of the 1-2 shift lever.
Possibilities are: Bent shift rod; worn shifter; worn shift rod at connection to shift lever on transmission.
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