How do I change the pencil lead in an M & G MP-3290 mechanical pencil?

to start with , there is no lead in a pencil
It is graphite
so to remove graphite use a suitable cleaner

Idles rough: I would check; EGR value take some starting fluid with trunk running spray engine, if the moter raises rpms you probly have a vacume leak. check fuel presure and fuel filters.change distibutor cap (orclean very good inside and out) may be some oil or someone may have leaded you pencil lead on a lead will make it mis badly.check your wires(plug).Have to go get a checker at store. gl

You can fabricate a tester from a 6 inch long mongol pencil. Sharpen one end and drill a 1/8" hole in the middle. Now remove the sparkplug wire from each sparkplug and insert the pencil onto the sparkplug wire with the dsharpened end connected or touching the ground or any metal part of the engine. Start your engine and you should see sparks jumping on the drilled hole on the pencil which indicates that your spark plug wire is okay.

Check spark plugs, leads, distributor cap & rotor arm, fuel pump, fuel filter, coil pack(s), relays, replace any items that are suspect IE Fuel filter which has probably not been changed since new even though they should be changed on all vehicles every 18 months, all of this can be done at home & will save you a lot of bucks in mechanic/garage fees,

,clean the cable connections under the front seats with a soft lead B pencil should do teh trick ,disconnect battery first and do teh connections on the pyrotecnic piston as well ,you should remove the seat to do this ,its easier

replace next?? your boy racer weekend mechanic scanner ,its leading you up the garden path ,if vehicle works ok leave it alone

Put light-weight oil on the key to lubricate the lock cylinder tumblers. ... Use cooking oil if nothing else available. Put the oil on the key and work the lock.
Wipe the keys when the locks start working.
The locks use "graphite" for lubrication. You can grind up pencil lead and use as a lock lubricant .... messy.

Hmmmm...
This evening when it starts getting dark, open the hood, start the car and look under hood & look for sparks from the sparkplug cable to engine ground. Or sparks near ignition module. Look especially close where the cables are "bound" together with a "finger" cable mount ( I forget what you call that).

This may sound silly, but check the cable routing to be sure that cable #2 & #3 are not swapped.... really...

By the way, inspect the old ignition module for a hairline crack. And don't mark anything with a lead pencil (carbon arc).

Hope this helps!

You will need to get this kit part number 4F1Z-14421-AA from your ford dealer.

1. Place the replacement terminal over the original tab location making sure the conductive areas of the terminal will be on a good conductive area. Do not place the terminal tab foot on the original location which does not have conductive material (figure 4).
   
   
   Figure 4 - Article 04-24-5
   
   
2. Hold the terminal in place with an item such as regular lead pencil at a 90 degree angle from the terminal. (Terminal type B can be held in place with tape.) (Holding at other than a 90 degree angle may allow the terminal to slip when the solder liquefies).
3. Place the soldering gun tip on the top of the terminal but not on the painted areas of the tab. Energize the soldering gun and watch for the painted area of the terminal to liquefy and change color. The paint should liquefy in approximately 25-45 seconds after heating. As soon as the paint color completely changes on either side of the terminal, de-energize the soldering gun and continue to hold the terminal in place with the soldering gun and pencil for an additional thirty (30) seconds.
4. Remove the soldering gun and pencil from the terminal. The terminal should be allowed to cool for another two (2) minutes before the wiring lead is attached to the terminal.
5. Attach the electrical lead connection to this terminal, turn on the rear defroster, and verify operation.