I replaced the itake gaskets,but still having the same problem.As soon as I fill the coolant tank,the coollant disappears and when I pullthe drain plug on the oil pan,the first thing coming outis coolant.What do I need to check/repair next?
Possibly the head gasket or a cracked block/ new motor try to take care when removing head so u can look at the gasket for damage
thanks to all,I figiured it was either the head gasket(s),head(s) or engine blocafter replacing the intake gaskets and still having the same trouble.I am thinking of upgrading thecar to a 3.2 motor.Would that be possible ad wht mods woud I have to make do so?
as for the below suggestions,The check engine light stays on most of the time,but that is due to emmissions according to the codes.
I had ran the codes before the engine had this problem.It ran with the emmission rouble for some time.Yes,I should have fixed that,but that does not solve why the coolant goes from the coolant tank straight into the engine oil pan.I feel that it iseither a cracked head (s) bad head gasket(s),or a cracked block.I am looking fo anther 2.7 motor to replace this one and en plan to rebuild this one if it is rebuildable.I have also thought about putting in a 3.2 motor.But I am not sure if this can be done without a lot of modification .Does the2.7 and 3.2 wire up the same? Is there anything I would need to change out in order to put the 3.2 motor in the car? What about the computer? Will it work with a 3.2?
this is the unique because before the water pump goes out totally u will start to see water in the oil. it is run by the timeing chain and the best way to watch for this is to watch ur water resovoir. take a marker and draw line at water level and check a few days later if u are losing water then that may be the source
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SOURCE: I need to remove the upper intake manifold from my
First off, you need to label all of the electrical and vacuum lines connecting to the intake manifold. This will make reassembly much easier. Then, there is a torque sequence to be used during disassembly and reassembly.
This image is of the TIGHTENING SEQUENCE. Reverse this to take the manifold off. This is important so that the upper intake manifold is not warped at all, which would decrease the quality of the seal. Be careful during disassembly and reassembly to avoid bending any lines or tubes. If things are in your way, disconnect them rather than pushing them to the side. This will avoid pinching inner linings which cannot be seen visually.
As for the gaskets, (as far as I am aware), Chrysler's (Dodge's) official stance on the manifold gaskets is that they are reusable. However, this is if they ALL look good under close inspection. Any tears, "melting", or other damage means the gaskets should all be replaced. They are not expensive, and I believe they all come as a set including both upper and lower gasket sets. Personally, I would recommend replacing them regardless. This would be a good preventative step to help extend the life of the vehicle. Also be sure to check the cooling line O-rings and replace them as necessary, following the criteria above.
Good luck and I hope this helps, even though I see it is a bit late.
SOURCE: 92 dodge 3.0L overheating with or without
i have a 3 liter that over heats and boils aver aswell. The first time this happened i could not figure it out. i changed the thermostat and tested the fan. the fan always cut in. i even took it off and hooked it strait to 12volts. i drove it around for a couple of minutes and it got hot agian. well it was hot i turned the a/c on witch should automaticly turn the fan on and it didn't turn on. after more testing i found that for some reason that the fan would work most of the time but not always. it seemed when it missed a cycle for some reason it never caught back up until the engine cooled down from being turned off. i changed the fan and it worked great. for about a month. i changed the fan and it worked again for about another month. my suggestion is head for a post. worked good for me. hhah
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