Question about Cars & Trucks
Check engine code p1336 xterra 2000
The crank position sensor is not sending a signal to the computer.
Could be the sensor, the wiring, or the sensor plate.
Posted on Dec 04, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The knock sensor is not a huge deal to replace and will not turn on the light. It should be dont though.
The crankshaft sensor is located directly between the engine and transmission. It is dead center at the bottom.
Posted on May 21, 2009
P0335 and P0336 Engine crank sensor malfunction
To test this code, have a visual inspection of the location and wirings of the crank sensor. If the engine has a cam sensor, you might mistook it as the crank sensor (it is a good idea to contact ATS that can research this for you). Check the sensor wires for insulation making sure it is getting a voltage signal as shown in the wiring diagram. Sometimes, the wires itself is soaked with dirty oil causing the sensor to fail. If OK, check the engine timing belt system for any slack which can also cause the sensor to throw in the code. If all of these prove OK, remove the crank sensor and check it for resistance as compared to the standard specs. Lots of times, if the sensor probe end is contaminated with oil or cracked, this can only be revealed after the crank sensor is removed
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
Essentially the same as P0136,
P0137 refers to the second oxygen sensor on Bank
1. P0137 means the O2 oxygen sensor's voltage remained low for longer than
2 minutes. This, is interpreted by the ECM as a low voltage condition and sets
the MIL. Bank
1 Sensor 2 is located to the rear of the catalytic converter and should produce
an output signal relative to oxygen storage capacity of the catalytic converter.
This rear (sensor 2) sensor is less active than the signal produced by the front
sensor. However, if the ECM senses the sensor is inactive, this code will set.
Symptoms There may be no visible symptoms to the driver, other than the MIL (Check Engine / Service Engine Soon) illumination.
A code P0137 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
I don't know what the codes mean but do they go away if you put the old ecm back on it? I think you should check the ignition fuse first. It may be located under the hood but also under the dash in your regular fuse box. I have seen them in both places on various vehicles. If the fuse is good then continue on. Next what I would like you to try is get a hair dryer and run an extention cord to the truck. Take the distributer cap off and inside on top of the distributor is a half moon type plastic coded little box wraped half way around the center shaft. That is the ignition modulator.
I want you to heat it up as hot as you can get it without melting the plstic and then hurry and replace the cap as fast as you can. Get everything away from the fan and run and try to start it. If it sputters or maybe even starts for a few minutes that is the culprit. It may even keep runnng for a while but rest assured it is on the way out.
These things are gold when buying one new. If you want a good laugh then call the dealers and asked them what they want for one. besure you are sitting down when you do. The aoto parts stores want a couple hundred for them. One of the greatest rip offs in the auto industry was to replace this 2 dollar item and charge what they do in order to replace the 7 dollar set of points. I myself suggest you buy the entire distributar at the salvage yard. Choose a pick a part if you have one in your area. That is one that lets you remove the parts yourself and you get them cheaper. The distributor should be no more then 30 to 50 bucks. mine I could have gotten for 30 but they were out of my model and I didn't want to wait. The next place wanted 80 but I told them I had 50 and they let me have it. They won't sell you just the modulator. The distributar is worthless without it.
Just bring it home and replace that modulator with your and not the whole distributor. besure the piece you need is in the one you get at the wrecking yard. It is a high theft item and people steel them and sell them on ebay. About 100 bucks on ebay but you have to wait for shipping and taking a chance the guy won't send you the wrong one.
So let me know if I have been of any help. The Raz
Posted on Apr 17, 2010
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Trouble Code: P1336
CKP Sensor System Variation Not Learned
Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels for safety. Verify the hood is closed. Read the trouble codes. If a code is set, refer to that code. Start the engine. Allow engine temperature to reach at least 158?F (70?C). Then key off. Select Crankshaft Position Variation Learn procedure on Scan Tool & start the vehicle. Apply the brake pedal firmly and verify the selector is in Park. Increase accelerator pedal position until fuel cutoff is reached at the test rpm (e.g., 5150). Quickly release the accelerator pedal after fuel cutoff is reached. The CKP system variation compensating values are learned when the engine speed (rpm) decreases back to idle speed and the procedure terminates. Read the trouble codes and recheck for DTC P1336. If DTC P1336 runs and passes, the CKP system variation "learn" procedure is complete. If not, look for other codes. If no codes are set, repeat the test procedure.
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