Voltmeter gauge doesn't show correct voltage. charging, battery and starting systems tested ok except battery needs recharging. an for an hour and gauge still dosen't show correct voltage.

Battery problem or alternator or battery cable's ,connections etc.... Do you know how to test automotive electrical circuit's ? Voltage drop testing ? Using a voltmeter to test the battery voltage level ,12.6 is fully charged , 14. 00 with engine running .
Voltage Drop Testing the Starter
Charging System Problem Voltage Drops

Ok I would have the battery tested. While testing battery make sure all connections are clean and tight on the battery terminals. If battery checks out to be good. Test the charging system, alternator. If alternator tests good make sure you belts are not slipping or worn and stretched out as this could cause a an inconsistent charge. While doing the battery test if posible do a draw test to see if anything is during current all the time as this could be draining or weakening the battery.

If the lights drain the battery when the engine is running, then you have a bigger problem of the alternator not charging, not working. When the engine is running, the alternator supplies all the current to run the car's electrical systems, while also charging up the battery for the next start-up. If you know the alternator is good, then maybe a fuse or fusible link has blown, preventing the alternator from working. To check, put a voltmeter on the battery with engine running-it should show over 13.5 volts if the charging system is working. If the alternator is not putting out, the voltmeter will read same voltage on the battery as when the engine is not running. A fully charged battery should show "around" 12.6 volts. A discharged battery will show less than 12 volts. That should give you an idea of the range to look for on a voltmeter. I believe some parts stores will check the voltage for free. I know most stores will test the alternator and battery for free if brought into the store, but you need the voltage read while on the car and engine running. If the system is charging normally and the lights kill everything, you may have a short in the lighting system.

take your battery to a parts store. they will test it. It is probably shorting out inside and causing the loss. buy new battery.

start the car. if you have a volt meter at the battery you should have 13 to 14 volts while running. if not your alternator isnt working.

First check your battery get a cheap digital volt meter. Free at Harbor freight with a purchase. Fully charged battery 12.6 volts Not 12.5 or 4 or 3. With the volt meter set on DC volts touch the battery and have someone start the car if the meter shows high 13.5 to 14.7 the alternator is ok if it is less replace. If you have a dead short take out every fuse and relay from the black box under hood by the battery. Remember where they go and plug them one at a time until the discharge hits and at least you will know what circuit it is.They also sell about 20 dollars a plastic meter you hold over the positive battery cable to see if the starter is drawing to much power A battery open-circuit voltage test will show the approximate state-of-charge of a battery. This test can be used if no other battery tester is available.

Before proceeding with this test, completely charge the battery. Refer to Standard Procedures for the proper battery charging procedures.

1. Before measuring the open-circuit voltage, the surface charge must be removed from the battery. Turn on the headlamps for fifteen seconds , then allow up to five minutes for the battery voltage to stabilize.
2. Disconnect and isolate both battery cables, negative cable first.

Testing Open Circuit Voltage

1. Using a voltmeter connected to the battery posts (see the instructions provided by the manufacturer of the voltmeter), measure the open-circuit voltage.

See the Open-Circuit Voltage Table. This voltage reading will indicate the battery state-of-charge, but will not reveal its cranking capacity. If a battery has an open-circuit voltage reading of 12.4 volts or greater , it may be tested to reveal its cranking capacity. Refer to Standard Procedures for the proper Micro 420 battery test procedures.


s than 13.5 alternator is bad

Check your battery with a voltmeter. Should be at least 11.6 volts to start car. Less than that, it needs recharged or replaced. Parts stores will check your battery condition for free. A load test should show if it's good or needs replacing.

You shoulld expect more than 12.8 volts from the alternator up to nearly 14 volts when charging a low battery. The battery can only show the amount of voltage your alternator is sending to it after being used for a while. I would suggest that you have the battery tested & recharged completely, your voltage will be above 12 volts and if it returns to below that , you will know your alternator is not charging. Also, if you test the output of the alternator and see it is below 12 volts after the battery is fully charged at 12+ volts you will have confimed the problem also.

good luck.

Alternator is not charging, have system checked at a local Autozone or Kragens for free. then you can purchase necessary replacement parts at the same time..

Checked Every fuse in the fuse box (no small task).This includes #4 - Power point Instrument Panel, #14 - Day time running lamps (auto lamps doesn't work nor does auto lock), #27 - ignition switch run feed, #35 - Instrument Cluster, #41 - Instrument Cluster, #42 - Delayed Accessory, #45 - Ignition switch run/start feed, #102 - Door locks body security module, #103 - Ignition switch, #110 - Ignition switch, & #116 - Ignition switch. But I also check all other ones as well, they all register OK. AC panel & radio work. Turn signals work. Mileage does not work, trip computer does. So, basically, everything works except auto head-lights, auto locks, and the dash cluster (no MPH, RPM, mileage display, Fuel, Temp, Tran Temp, and Oil Pressure).