Oil in intake tube

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONSDescriptionNmLb-FtLb-InEngine Air Cleaner Tube Clamps1.6-2.2-14-19Engine Control Sensor Wiring Through Bolts2.5-3.5-23-30Generator to Bracket Bolt3727-Generator to Cylinder Head Bolt4835-Generator Brace to Upper Intake Manifold Bolts and Nut12-209-14-Intake Manifold Support to Throttle Body8-12-71-106Intake Manifold Support to RH Cylinder Head40-5530-40-Degas Tube to Upper Intake Manifold Bolts8-12-71-106Camshaft Sprocket to Camshaft Bolt50-7037-51-Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolt10-88Coil and Bracket to Cylinder Head Bolt40-5530-40-Connecting Rod Nut31-3923-28-Crankshaft Damper to Crankshaft Bolt125-16593-121-Crankshaft Pulley to Damper (4 Bolts)40-6030-44-Cylinder Head Retaining Bolt(1)(1)-Accelerator Cable Shield Bolts1.4-13Camshaft Position Sensor Housing Retaining Bolt2417-EGR Tube Connector to Exhaust Manifold40-4730-34-EGR Valve to Upper Intake Manifold Bolt20-3015-22-EGR Tube to EGR Valve and Exhaust Manifold35-6526-47-Exhaust Manifold Bolt/Stud20-2515-18-Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolt73-8754-64-Fuel Injection Supply Manifold to Intake Manifold8-12-71-106Throttle Cable Bracket1713-Dual Converter Y Pipe to Exhaust Manifolds34-4725-34-Crankshaft Position Sensor Bolts5-7-45-61Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolt (5)(2)(2)-Main Bearing Cap Bolt75-8556-62-Oil Drain Plug11-169-11-Oil Filter Insert to Cylinder Block27-4020-29-Oil Filter to Oil Filter Adapter(3)(3)-Oil Galley and Cooling Jacket Plugs2014-Oil Level Indicator Tube to Exhaust Manifold Nut16-2012-14-Engine to Transaxle/Torque Converter Assembly Bolts40-6030-44-Torque Converter Nuts27-4620-33-Transmission Range Sensor Nut16-2212-16-Front Sub-Frame-to-Body Bolts77-10357-75-Oil Pressure Sensor16-2212-16-Oil Pump to Cylinder Block Bolt40-5530-40-Power Steering Bracket to Cylinder Head Bolt40-5530-40-Valve Cover to Cylinder Head Bolts/Studs (5)10-14-89-123Right Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Retaining Bolts8-12-71-106Rocker Arm Seat to Cylinder Head Bolt(4)(4)-Water Outlet Connection to Intake Manifold Bolt10-14-89-123Upper Intake Manifold to Lower Intake Manifold Bolt/Stud20-3015-22-Engine Front Cover to Cylinder Block Bolt (No. 1-10)2518-Engine Front Cover to Cylinder Block Bolt (No. 11-15)10-88Water Pump Pulley to Hub (4 Bolts)20-3015-22-Water Pump to Front Cover Bolt8-12-71-106Wiring Retainer Bracket Nut20-3015-22-Valve Tappet Guide Plate to Cylinder Block10-14-89-123Ignition Coil Bracket40-5530-40-Oil Pan to Cylinder Block Bolt10-14-89-123Water Bypass Tube Nut20-3015-22-Crankshaft Pulley Bolts40-5530-40-

1. Tighten in four steps (refer to illustration in Cylinder Head Installation for tightening sequence):
   • Tighten in sequence to 70-90 Nm (52-66 Lb-Ft)
   • Then back off all bolts 360 degrees
   • Tighten in sequence to 45-55 Nm (34-40 Lb-Ft)
   • Tighten in sequence to 85-99 Nm (63-73 Lb-Ft)
2. Tighten in two steps
   • 20-30 Nm (15-22 Lb-Ft)
   • 26-32 Nm (20-23 Lb-Ft)
3. Advance 3/4 to 1 turn after gasket contacts sealing surface or tighten to 13-15 Nm (10-11 Lb-Ft).
4. Tighten in two steps:
   • 7-15 Nm (6-11 Lb-Ft)
   • 26-38 Nm (20-28 Lb-Ft)
5. Refer to illustration in the Cylinder Head Installation procedure for tightening sequence.

That sounds like an air leak in the intake manifold area. If there is no hose off,it could be a intake manifold gasket problem

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V6? does it get any better when it warms up? Does RPM rev hi to low or does it sit at one speed and shakes? Hows the plugs? first thing first, buy a can of carb/choke cleaner $ 5.00 . Remove any plastic motor cover plates that would expose the motor. Spray cleaner around the base of the intake manifold and all mating areas of the intake manifold. ( not into the air intake) does the motor rpm change or rev up? if yes, you have bad intake gasket. also spray and check all air (vacuum) hose connections for proper fit and no cracks. Check plugs and note color and condition of each and what cylinder it was from, a brown paper bag color is normal, a super clean look is lean possible coolant leak, a burnt or melted electrode is early detonation timing, oil carbon deposit bad rings or valve guides,seals, wet is to rich , air fuel mix. Several things cause this, check all seals,air lines first,air filter, cracked or split intake tube, gasket check, does it run rough at cold idle only ( possible temp sensor ) you can check alot of things to eliminate without spending cash,

I just had the same thing. Engine light came on. Rough idle. Codes P0171, P0174, P2195, P2197. Within a week the idle got so bad it would die at stop lights. Seemed like a vacuum leak affecting the idle. Found it today. The elbow where the PCV tube enters the vacuum port on the upper intake was degraded, collapsed and had a whole in it. Wondered why it degraded. I disconnected the tube from the PCV valve and found it quite oily. I think the oil sat in the elbow at the intake because it is flat on top of the engine and could pool there, causing the rubber to degrad. Found a preformed piece of coolant hose at O'Reilly that was the right diameter and cut it to length. Put it on, runs like a charm. I ordered a new PCV valve because I think too much oil was coming through it and caused the hose failure.

some cars dont adapt well to cold air intakes. try putting your old system back on.

NO NO NO, to replacing the air filter system. There is a lot miss leading information as to the "Cold air intake systems" We have tested and shown our clients that not very many work, and most are all "HYPE"! We have used temp reading equipment and monitored the temp from the air cleaner to the intake manifold. We found the stock equip was far cooler (60 DEGREES) than the "cold air systems" THEY WERE USING OR WANTING TO USE. The main reason for this, they where not properly insulating the tube. The cold air tube was absorbing the HOT air from under the hood, and the outside temp flowing through it was not cooling it off, like the factory one does. If done properly, the temp would be much cooler, but there is no aftermarket companys that send the insulation package with the cold air system. We have used insulation from a local heating/air condition company that they use on duct work. This made a significant difference in temp from the outside air to the throttle body, and made it a REAL COLD AIR SYSTEM. Keep the tires properly inflated, get a 4 wheel alignment to insure the tires are rolling straight and true, keep the filters clean, switch to a synthetic oil, wax the exterior of the vehicle for less wind resistance,( ever seen a high speed car dirty?) push on the gas pedal when taking off, and letting the vehicle coast down when coming to stop, using less brakes. Hope this help you

It could be burning and you don't notice. Remove air filter box assembly from top of intake manifold. Hold throttle wide open (engine off) and look through throttle body (flashlight may be required) and see if oil is puddled up inside manifold. If so then the intake manifold will need to be removed so the lower pan gasket can be replaced.

This is usually an indication of "blowback" caused by worn piston rings. How many miles on the engine? There is not a cheap solution if it is blowback.

What was the weight of the oil that was put into the engine when it was changed? Prius engines are VERY PICKY about the proper weight of the engine oil. Trust me. I see this quite often. The wrong weight oil can do bizzare things, and def lower your mileage. Something you can check: Take off the tube leading to the throttle body, and look down into the intake. Do you see any oil laying in the intake manifold? If so, you DEF have the wrong weight oil. This will NOT set a Check Engine light, either. Hope this helps.

replaced faulty trans modulator, which allowed trans fluid to enter manifold, connecting tube, saturate air filter, and seep into oil pan thru engine via vacuum line from the modulator