99 mazda 626 2.5L AC/Alt belt tension adjustment proceedure?

either drive belt too too big or drive belt tensioner broken or drive belt need adjustment if you have v type belt.

FIRST TURN OFF RADIO.REMOVE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE.REMOVE FRESH AIR DUCT.REMOVE RADIATOR UPPER BRACKET.REMOVE CONDENSOR FAN IF EQUIPPED.REMOVE ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS FROM THE ALTERNATOR.LOOSEN THE BELT TENSIONER LOCK NUT AND TENSION ADJUSTING BOLT.REMOVE ALTERNATOR UPPER MOUNTING BOLT.REMOVE RIGHT SPLASH SHIELD. REMOVE DRIVE BELT FROM THE ALTERNATOR PULLEY.REMOVE AC COMPRESSOR AND SUPPORT IT ASIDE LEAVING THE REFRIGERANT LINES CONNECTED.REMOVE ALTERNATOR THROUGH BOLT.THEN REMOVE ALTERNATOR.

Find The Alt. Loosen But Don't Remove All Nuts Bolts That Look Like They Might Be Holding It On.

Disconnect The Neg Battery Cable From The Battery First.

The Alt. Should Pivot Back And Forth / Up And Down. Look At It And Notice How It Travels In An Arc. This Is How You Establish The Correct Tension When You Tighten The Bolts With The New Belt Installed. Use A Long Screwdriver As A Lever To Get The Tension And Tighten The Bolts With The Other.

Pretty Simple.

I Think The Outside Belt Drives The Water Pump And Alternator And The Inside Belt Drive The Ac And Ps Pump. If Your Belt Is On The Inside You Need To Loosen The Ps Pump And Take That Belt Off First.

If it's the same as my sister's 2002, there are two belts. The tensioner for the outer belt is on the front, under the power steering pump or ac compressor(cant remember which is on the front there). Loosen the one that locks it in place, and the pivot point bolt on top, then the long one can be turned to adjust tension. All 3 of those bolts are 14mm heads. For the inner belt, it's a pain. It is in the rear, under the alternator. 12 mm for that tensioner and lock out bolt.

could have been a loose belt to start with. check alt and water pump. if alt is not noisey and charging. check water pump for leaks and noise. make shore belt is in good condision and the correct tension

If it is a serpentine belt is is self adjusting. So if it is squealing then it needs replacing as it is worn out. And also possibly the tensioner needs replacing as it may not be holding sufficient tension on the belt. If it is a drive belt it more than likely still needs replacing as it will have become glazed from slipping. On a drive belt it is adjusted by loosening the mounting bracket on the A/C and moving it in a direction that tightens the belt.

It isn't that hard of a fix, I recently had to change the same belt on mine. Right underneath the AC is a tension bolt, just loosen it up enough and the AC unit should roll down to loosen the first belt. You need to do the same process for the other belt. That tension bolt is located underneath the alternator. Just to save yourself the trouble, I would go ahead and replace both belts. A set only cost me $30 at autozone.

when you take the ac belt of there is also a pully that you need to adjust so you can slide the belt around that as well / reminder loosen compressor bolts so that you can manuever the belt around that and then get the tension by pulling the compressor up

well has soon as you loosen and take out the alt the belt will become loose then put alt on it will slide down to put belt around and then pull up on alt and tighten it up

Sorry, I don't have access to a Bentley now. There are 4 belts, 2 for alternator etc, 1 for aircon and 1 for pwr steering.
The power steering belt goes round the power steering pump & crank pulley only.
The paired belts go round crank pulley, alternator and water pump.
The aircon belt goes round crank pulley, aircon compressor and tensioner.
Alternator / water pump pair are closest to the engine.
Power steering is in the middle (with aircon) or closest to the bulkhead (without aircon).
Aircon (if fitted) is closest to the bulkhead.

(1) If you do not have an AC compressor, skip this step and go to step 2. If you dohave one, begin by cutting any cable ties that hold the main wiringharness to the AC hoses. Lift the harness up and over onto the camcover until it's near the PCV valve, and is now out of your way.

All nuts & bolts in this step are 13 mm.

Then, slacken the 2 bolts attaching the AC tensioner pulley mount (athick triangular steel plate) to the head. Use a long box wrench (ringspanner, in English ).

Using a deep-wall socket (or an offset ratchet wrench, or plain wrench)on the adjuster nut, back it off until there's no more tension in thebelt (you won't be able to remove the belt yet, though).

Now, remove the upper of the 2 mounting bolts and its washer, and pivot the tensioner down; remove the belt.

Remove the lower bolt, and lift out the tensioner. Look the triangularplate over for cracks, and spin the pulley to see if its bearing issmooth and quiet. (If you find problems, the pulley is about $15 and www.eeuroparts.com sells the entiretensioner assembly for something like $70.) Back off the adjuster nutuntil it's about 1/4" (1/2 cm) from the end of its threaded rod (usevise-grips to clamp the rod's other end onto the triangular plate, orput the whole thing in a vise).

(2) Slacken the bolt and nut holding the power steering pump to thehead and to the RH engine mount, respectively. Slacken the adjuster nut(yes, anotherthreaded-rod type thing) by about 1/2" (1 cm). You can use a normalwrench for this, but it takes forever--so I made a special tool bytaking a cheapo 13 mm open-jaw wrench and bending it to a 45-degreeangle just below the jaws (cut it to length if it's too hard tomaneuver). Loosen the mounting nut until it's almost off (but not completely off,or you'll lose the bolt it screws onto--this bolt was designed to fallout when the nut is removed). Pull the nut end of the threaded rodtowards the firewall to get it of the adjuster fork. Push the pumptowards the engine centerline and pull its belt off (you may need topry with a screwdriver to get it out of the pump pulley completely).

(3) Slacken the 16 mm nut on top of the alternator. Back off the alt.adjuster's 10 mm nut about 1/2" (1 cm)--a ratcheting wrench helps here.(This is the last threaded rod--I promise.) Completely remove the 16 mmnut, and pull the adjuster towards the firewall until it's out of thealt.

Now for the clever part: Cut yourself a wedge from a piece of wood (2 x4 is perfect), with a rise of 3" (8 cm) and a run of about 12" (30 cm).Push the alt. towards the engine, and shove the wedge in between theside of the alt. and the coil-spring tower (master cylinder mountingbracket works, too). Keep pushing the alt. and driving the wedge downuntil the alt. is so close to the engine that it's compressing thelower heater hose.

Pull the outer belt off the alt. pulley. Working from the RH side ofthe car, lift the belt off the water pump pulley and then disengage itfrom the crank pulley. Now, pull the inner belt into the outergroove of the water pump pulley. Go back to the LH side of the car, andmove the inner belt into the alt. pulley's outer groove. Try removingit from this pulley; if too difficult, either wedge the alt. closer tothe engine or try pulling the belt off the water pump pulley from theRH side of the car (a helper is very useful for all this).

(4) Install the new inner belt by fitting it into its groove in thecrank pulley first. Work it into the outer grooves of the alt. andwater pump pulleys, then into the inner ones. Install the outerbelt--again, first onto the crank pulley, then the water pump and alt.pulleys.

Remove wedge. Insert tensioner into alt. making sure the threaded rodsettles into its fork, and refit its 16 mm nut--but don't fully tightenit yet. Tighten 10 mm adjuster nut until belts can be pushed in only1/2" (1 cm) by thumb pressure (applied 1/2 way between water pump andcrank pulleys).

(5) Push PS pump as close to engine centerline as possible, andfinger-tighten its mounting bolt to hold it there. Fit a new beltaround the crank pulley first, then work it into the pump pulley groovefrom the bottom of the pulley until it pops in. You may need to use both hands, and/or carefully pry the belt on with a screwdriver.

Loosen the bolt you just tightened. Pull the pump away from enginecenterline, insert threaded rod into its fork (you may have to back theadjuster nut off some more), tighten the mounting nut (but notcompletely), and screw in the adjuster nut until the belt deflects asdescribed in (4) above.

(6) Start the engine. Blip throttle, watching the belts deflect as theengine speed goes up and down. If the "blur" you see midway down eachbelt is over 1" (2 cm) wide, tighten the belt(s) until it isn't. Tighten the PS pump mounting nut and bolt, and the 16mm nut on the alt.

If your car doesn't have AC, your belt replacement is over!

(7) If you haveAC, reattach the tensioner to the head with the lower bolt only (andleave this bolt finger-tight). Fit the new belt around the crankpulley, then around the compressor pulley and, finally, around thetensioner.

Reinstall the top tensioner bolt and its washer. Be careful and patienthere--you're threading a steel bolt into aluminum, so make sure it goesin straight. You may have to back off the tensioner nut a little. Leavethis bolt finger-tight.

Screw in the adjuster nut to get the deflection as described in (4)above. Start the engine, and blip the throttle. Watch belt's "blur" on LHside of engine. Adjust as in (6). Switch on compressor, and repeat.

If satisfied, tighten the 2 tensioner bolts. Return wiring harness toits original position, and re-secure with cable ties if needed.