1993 Mitsubishi Expo 4 Door Logo
Anonymous Posted on Nov 16, 2008

'93 expo lrv 2.4L rough idle/2 cylinders missing

My sister-in-law has a '93 expo lrv 2.4L SOHC and the computer was replaced due to a no-start condition. And it fixed that problem and ran fine then a few weeks later she overheated it and warped the head and valves. I fixed that put it back together with a new timing belt and it ran fine for a couple of weeks. And then one morning it would turn over but not start. I checked the usual (fuel, air, spark, compression). And noticed that the spark was real weak so I figured it was more then likely the coil even though the ohms tested fine on the primary and secondary side. So I changed the whole distributer because I couldn't buy the coil individually plus it came with the power transistor, and I went ahead and changed the plugs and wires to give it a complete ignition tune-up. That made the spark a lot stronger and it started, but cylinders 2 and 3 were dead so it was only running off of two cylinders, surprisingly. I double checked my valve timing & ignition timing they were fine, All cylinders have great spark at the spark plug end of the wires, I know it is getting fuel because the plugs in cyl. 2&3 are getting soaked with fuel (I keep cleaning them off so I know they are not getting fuel fouled), and I double checked my compression and all were at about 135-140psi. What I find weird is that when the engine is cold (about 35- 40 degrees) the engine will idle at about 1000 rpm until it warms up and then it will idle at around 300-600rpm and die or go into a real low idle (about 100-200 rpm) and then go back up if it doesn't die to about 300-600 rpm if you rev it up and let of the gas. While it is idling at 1000 if you take of a plug wire on 2&3 it doesn't effect it so I know the cylindes are still dead at that speed to. Furthermore, I double checked that my rotor wasn't 180 degrees out. This one has got me stumped so if anyone has an idea of what it is please let me know. Sorry about how long this is but I figure the more info you have the easier it will be to diagnose.

  • Anonymous Nov 16, 2008

    I'll take a look at the rockers today. And replace the plugs again cause there only about five bucks. And if that doesn't work I guess the pick-up must be suspect. If the pick-up was faulty do you think it would still fire on two cylinders?

  • Anonymous Nov 18, 2008

    Looked at cap & checked the rockers, and it has spark between the cap and wires and between the wires and plugs.

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Anonymous

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  • Posted on Nov 16, 2008
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My brain hurts the only thing i can say is either the spark plugs are cracked or gap is closed, or the dist.pick-up is faulty/cap. poss.a bent push-rod on 2&3 exhaust valves this would show good compression but valve never opens to release exhaust. pull v/c and watch rocker arms. good luck please let me know how it goes.

  • Anonymous Nov 16, 2008

    usually its all or none. inspect cap carefully/looking at each contact put spark tester between wire and cap.

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

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  • Posted on Dec 04, 2008

SOURCE: Fuel filter location on a 1994 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 2.4

it is an internal fuel pump located underneath the back seat..

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Anonymous

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  • Posted on Dec 25, 2008

SOURCE: Spark plug gap

0.10 should be the correct setting

Boneebone

  • 973 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 03, 2010

SOURCE: changed computer in 1992 expo lrv and engine runs

You need to pull the code out with a OBD I scanner to determine what code is being set.

Anonymous

  • 834 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 19, 2010

SOURCE: wiring diagram for the distributor cap of a 92

Here is a firing order diagram if that is what you are looking for?


0d3c7ec.jpg

truffulaseed

  • 90 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 21, 2011

SOURCE: Instructions to replace fuel filter of a 1994

Relieve the fuel rail pressure by removing the fuel pump fuse, then cranking the engine for a few seconds until it is clearly not receiving any fuel. Next let off the pressure in the fuel tank by removing then replacing the fuel filler cap. Next unfasten the special connectors which join the fuel line to either side of the fuel filter and disconnect the lines, keeping a rag handy to catch the fuel which will spill out of the lines and filter. Remove the fuel filter mounting bracket bolts/screws then replace the filter. Reassembly is the reverse of removal.

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