Head Lights not working

disconnect turn signal switch wires @ column, put power to wires to brake lights. that cks wiring to lights. next put power to wires through turn signal to ck switch. Power runs from brake light switch to turnsignal switch, to lights.

I can't imagine three brake lights all losing their grounds. You will need a volt meter to check (with the help of an assistant) to see if about 12 volts is available at the bulb socket's brake light socket (as measured to ground) when the brake pedal is depressed and held. Do the same for the other light and finally the third brake light. If there is a total loss of power at all the bulb sockets with the brake pedal depressed and held, check for about 12 volts coming to the brake pedal switch while not being depressed and that voltage comes out the other connection at the switch when the brake pedal is depressed. If power comes in on one wire but doesn't come out the other side when pressing the pedal this means the switch is bad. Replace it with a new one. Ne advised that SOME vehicles brake lights don't come on if the key is off, on most they work at all times even if the key is off.

Yes, if your turn signals in the back use the same filaments as the brakes, the multi-switch must allow the brake signal through when the turn signals are not activated. There are multiple diagrams for your system, so I'm not sure what you have. If you have the light blue wire that goes from the brake switch ul the column to the turn switch, make sure it is getting power when the pedal is pressed. It should go thru the switch as shown in the second diagram below.

Have you checked the socket to see if 12 volts is reaching the socket for brake light citcuit? Probe the wires with a 12 volt test light probe (avail from any parts store for about $6)

you never said if you have a good ground to the taillights, check the sockets

Hi!!

If you activate the turn signal switch and you step on the brake pedal, the turn switch (on the steering column) deactivates the brake light to make the signal light more visible. The bulb for the stop and turn lights is the same.

Turn hazard lights ON. If they don't blink, replace turn/hazard flasher, If one or more lights don't come on, replace bulb.

Check fuse and circuit wiring for broken or loose connections. If all looks fine, check following:

If front turn lights work fine, check brake/turn bulbs.

If turn lights come on but don't blink, replace turn signal/hazard flasher.

If front and back turn lights don't come on, replace switch on column.

Let me know how it worked out, Good Luck

TEST FRONT RIGHT BLINKER CIRCUIT AND REPLACE THE BULB,,WITH PROPER BULB...A DOUBLE CIRCUIT BULB IN A SINGLE SOCKET WILL DO THAT ALSO A SINGLE SOCKET BULB IN A DOUBLE SOCKET HOLDER....CHECK LEFT SIDE BULB FOR ACURANCY

This is a classic example of turn signal switch failure. On GM vehicles with a multi-function turn signal switch and combination stop/turn/tail lights (all rear lights are behind red colored lenses except for back-up lights) The brake light power is routed through the turn signal switch. This makes it possible for the right rear light to function as a stop light while the left rear turn signal flashes, and vice-versa. When the contacts fail to remain constant the brake lights, and turn signals can become intermittent. The proof that the brake light switch is functioning correctly is that the high center (cyclops) brake light functions properly. Wiring integrity is verified if you can prove that turn signals operate, but that can still be intermittent with this complaint, BUT if you use your hazard switch to turn on all the signals at once, you can verify wiring integrity. This is because the turn signal, and the brake light use the same circuit, and bulb filament in the rear lighting assembly. If any Hazard lights fail to function, check bulbs first, then retest. If all Hazrd light flash correctly and reliably, bulbs, sockets, and wiring have proven integrity, and the turn signal switch is the remaining component in the system which needs to be tested. Unfortunately, this switch requires disassembly of the steering column for service, testing or replacement. If you have never disassembled, and successfully reassembled a GM tilt steering column, I would reccommend professional assistance.

i was having a similar problem with my 2000 SL. when the taillights would go, so would the cruise control. and through many bulb and fuse replacements, i finally went into a saturn dealership and they did a recall campaign on it. they did their thing and i havnt had any problems since. FREE!

We bought a 2000 Blazer in '02 and one day I noticed there were no brake lights, but the 3rd light on top worked fine. I did some research online and found out there was a recall on this problem due to the hazard switch on the column. I also found out if I wiggled the hazard switch a certain way, the brake lights worked. I was able to get by for awhile by wedging a 'widget' beside the hazard switch button and the hole in the column cover. This worked fine until someone would knock the widget out of place.
I finally got around to having the switch replaced at a local dealer. All was fine until last week when I was told the brake lights were out again and I found out my hazard lights didn't work either. I changed out the switch assembly myself this time, and once I had it out I saw what happened. The brake light voltage comes in to the assembly on a white wire, and the first contact this goes through is on the hazard switch. In my case the contact had obviously overheated from the brake light current and melted the plastic holding the contact in place, thus breaking the circuit to the brakes. Either a poor design or too much current for the circuit to handle.
Soooooo now I am in the process of replacing the four bulbs in the tail/brake light assembly with 3 watt Luxeon LED plug-in replacements. The current draw of the original bulbs was measured at 2.2 amps at 13.8 volts, times 4 bulbs makes about 8.8 amps that goes through the contact in the hazard switch whenever the brakes are stomped. The LED replacements draw .2 amp each, so times 4 will be .8 amp or less than 1/10th of the original equipment bulbs. These LED bulbs in my opinion are as bright or brighter than the original equipment and hopefully will help from burning out another switch assembly.. David