I have a 93 rodeo 3in suspension lift 3 in body lift on 38 tires what gears for front and back is best it is v6 4x4

several ways
use a tire with a big profile number ( if example 195-25 r17 the 25 is the tire profile height by changing to a 195-95 r17 you lift the front of the vehicle almost 3") all 4 wheels have to be changed to maintain steering stability ( talk with a tire shop for best advice )
next method is to fit new and better springs to the front suspension as the existing springs could be sagged down or cut to lower the vehicle (Talk wit a suspension shop for best advice )

Control solenoid ? explain . Shift solenoid , pressure control solenoid ?
The shift solenoid valves are two identical, normally open, electronic exhaust valves that control upshifts and downshifts in all forward gear ranges. These shift solenoid valves work together in a combination of ON and OFF sequences in order to control the positions of the 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 shift valve trains. The PCM monitors numerous inputs in order to determine the appropriate solenoid state combination and the transmission gear for the vehicle operating conditions
The pressure control (PC) solenoid valve is a precision electronic pressure regulator that controls transmission line pressure based on current flow through its coil windings. As current flow is increased, the magnetic field which is produced by the coil moves the solenoid's plunger further away from the exhaust port. Opening the exhaust port decreases the output fluid pressure, which is regulated by the PC solenoid valve. This ultimately decreases line pressure. The PCM controls the PC solenoid valve based upon various inputs including throttle position, fluid temperature, MAP sensor, and gear state.
Did you have a DTC - diagnostic trouble code ?

Removal Procedure

1. Remove the case side cover. Refer to Control Valve Body Cover Replacement .
2. Disconnect the transaxle wiring harness.
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4. Remove the 1-2 shift solenoid (315A

Removal Procedure

1. Remove the throttle body air inlet duct. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls -- 3.4L.
2. Install the engine support fixture. Refer to Engine Support Fixture in Engine Mechanical.
3. Remove the engine mount struts. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Replacement and Engine Mount Strut Replacement in Engine Mechanical.
4. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
5. Remove the left front tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
6. Remove the left engine splash shield. Refer to Engine Splash Shield Replacement in Body Front End.
7. Remove the stabilizer shaft links from the lower control arms. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement in Front Suspension.
8. Remove the left tie rod end from the steering knuckle. Refer to Rack and Pinion Outer Tie Rod End Replacement in Power Steering System.

Your best bet is take it to a ASE certified repair shop ! This very complex >

The shift solenoid valves are two identical, electronic exhaust valves that control upshifts and downshifts in all forward gear ranges. These valves are normally open. These shift solenoid valves work together in a combination of ON and OFF sequences in order to control the positions of the 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 shift valve trains. The TCM monitors numerous inputs to determine the appropriate solenoid state combination and transmission gear for the vehicle operating conditions.
Remove the transmission side cover. Refer to Control Valve Body Cover Replacement . Remove the 1-2 shift solenoid retainer clip (304), the 1-2 shift solenoid (305) with O-ring (303), the 1-2 shift valve (302), and the 1-2 shift valve spring (301).
Remove the PNP switch. Refer to Park/Neutral Position Switch Replacement . Remove the transmission upper side cover bolts. Install the engine support fixture. Refer to Engine Support Fixture in Engine Mechanical. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Remove the left front tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels. Remove the left inner fender liner. Refer to Front Fender Liner Replacement in Body Front End. Remove the wheel drive shaft from the transmission. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement in Wheel Drive Shafts. Remove the power steering gear mounting bolts. Refer to Steering Gear Replacement in Power Steering. Remove the frame. Refer to Frame Replacement in Frame and Underbody.
This is a tough repair an needs special tools to do it . your best bet is take it to AAMCO

Hi Glen,I have a silver 85 Nissan 4x4,I have no lift,31's are too big for mine,scrub bad.I am a member of 720world.com go there and join it's free,you can sell, buy parts,ask info.,help others.Here is a video of my 85.

The body lift is included to ensure the larger tires can cycle through the full range of suspension movements without touching anything. The nice thing is that lifting a Jeep Wrangler (TJ) is easily done in stages:
- A 1 inch body lift will allow you to easily clear a slightly larger tire than stock, very inexpensively
- A 2 inch suspension lift would allow another tire-size upgrade, and increase ground clearance as dollars allow

In the end, a 1" body lift, combined with a 2" or 3" suspension lift will allow you to fit a 33" tire under these Jeeps. This not only increases your actual ground clearnace under the axle by almost 3 inches, but those new springs will flex a lot better than the old ones, so your Jeep will be much more capable offroad.

Combine this simple lifting strategy with aggressive fender trimming, and you could stuff 35" tires under that rig of yours - that would be good for almost 4 inches of extra clearance (over stock) under the axles - but you'd want to look at upgrading those axles if you're going with a tire over 33".

Other Lift Considerations... running out and slapping on some pucks under your body tub might sound easy, but there is a bunch to consider before the wrenches start flying:

* Get replacement bolts ready - the old rusty ones will be tough to get out and you'll want new ones to install
* Make sure you use actual body lift components - some areas will not allow a Jeep equipped with hockey pucks as body mounts to pass inspections - don't laugh, it happenes every day
* Be ready to lengthen wires and control linkages as needed - going up 1 inch shouldn't pose a problem, any higher might. You'll need to fabricate longer shifter and t-case handles, and watch for any other items which need lengthening.
* DO NOT run a body lift any higher than 3 inches - even that's a bit much. All you are doing it raising the centre of gravity and rather than the lift blocks supporting the mass of the body (and you) vertially, the bolts now must carry the weight through the turns. Think of it - does it seem safe to have 6, 1/2" or so bolts holding roughly 2500 lbs worth of body tub and humans in place? Keep it to 1 inch if at all possible.

Don't forget, if you raise the suspension, you'll need to install longer trac bars to locate the axles and adjust or replace steering components to keep the angles of steering-related items within specs. A full, complete kit, will have everything you need. Be sure to double and triple check those trac-bars - there's two in TJ Wranglers - one for each axle. Their job is to located the axle under the Jeep - if you hear a clunking noise after the install, chances are the mounting or location bolts/nuts are loose. In general, these nuts/bolts cannot be tight enough. Re-check them periodically and after every two or three trail rides. As with any suspension changes, go get an alignment when you're done.

Visit this link to know details about 2003 JEEP WRANGLER TJ INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS BODY LIFT KIT

Hope this helps (remember to rate and comment this answer).

yes i have a 98 k1500 and i can fit 33s and i dont have a lift at all so im sure with a 3 inch lift you can fit them

The air suspension compressor is located on the passenger side of the car in front of the tire. To get to it, you must first lift the front tires off of the ground, remove the front passenger tire, and then remove the plastic skirt found behind the tire. After this is done it is easy to see the compressor which is found towards the front of the car, mounted just behind the skirt. I hope this helps

It would be best to only do a body lift kit if driving on the road.Suspension lift kits lead to a lot of tire wear problems and the truck will never drive right again.

you can crank the torsion bars for maybe an inch. or put a body lift on for 2-3" or combinatoin of both. or just cut the fenders

I am pretty sure that there is a lift kit available for a 95 dakota. There are a few ways to lift the body of the vehicle. I know a few people who have done it with hockey pucks. Drill holes through the center of the hockey pucks and place them in the body mounts. However, if you want buy a real lift kit, there are several sites that sell lift kits. I recently put a 9" suspension lift on a 1977 F-150. Most companys that make the kits offer more for newer vehicles.
I am not sure if I am allowed to post other websites, however, I did search for a lift for a 95 dakota and found one right away. There are three types of lifts that you can do. One is very limited but you can get the truck taller by putting bigger tires on it. Doing this will give you less clearance between the top of the tire and the fender well. There are also body lifts and suspension lifts. Body lifts are less expensive as there are less components to install. Suspension lifts are much more expensive but it is what I would reccomend for a larger lift. For a couple inches I would go with the body lift. For anything over 2 to 3 inches I would reccomend a suspension lift. If you can find a body lift kit for a 95 dakota 4x4, then you can use it on a 2 wheel drive as well.