I have a 1989 cavalier z24. when i stop at a red light or something, my car starts to idol ruff- then my check engine light comes on. the code it is throwing is 45- running rich. ive replaced all kinds of parts and it dont seem to help.
I have the same problem, when i come to a complete stop, it idles ruff then quits. I have found out that the gas tank does biuld up pressure not sure if this fixes it, but i usually just put my car into nuetral and it doesnt die on me. that seems to work fine. But its really frustrating when your sitting in traffic and the car dies!I have the same problem, when i come to a complete stop, it idles ruff then quits. I have found out that the gas tank does biuld up pressure not sure if this fixes it, but i usually just put my car into nuetral and it doesnt die on me. that seems to work fine. But its really frustrating when your sitting in traffic and the car dies!
hi,im just wondering what the weight and horse power is on the 89 z24,3.1L i just bought??? hi,im just wondering what the weight and horse power is on the 89 z24,3.1L i just bought???
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Have similar problem, seems to be too much pressure build up in the gas tank, when you loosen the gas cap, there is pressurized air comes out. If I leave the cap loose, the car runs fine
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There are no relays involved in the headlamp circuits on a 1989 Chevrolet Cavalier Z24.
The headlamp switch gets power on pin "C" (RED wire) from fusible link "A" which attaches to the starter solenoid. The headlamp switch sends the power from pin "D" (YELLOW wire) to the dimmer switch pin "C" and the dimmer switch sends the power either to the high beam lights pin "B" (LIGHT GREEN wire) or the low beam lights pin "D" (TAN wire) depending on which position it is in.
The ETS light is the warning light for the Electronic Traction Control. Check Engine light indicates there is a problem with the emissions system. Take the vehicle to Auto Zone, Advance Auto Parts, O'Reilles, or Pep Boys and have the ECU scanned to see what codes comes up. The code will tell your what part is being effected.
Cycle your key on (not start) then off, on, off, then on and leave it on. Now count the flashes from the "check engine light" and get back to us with those codes. It will flash a 2 digit number, but pause briefly between numbers. For example: 3 flashes,pause, then 3 more flashes is code 33. 1 flash, pause , then 5 more would be code 15. When you get 5 flashes, pause, then 5 more, that's code 55 and it just means end of message or codes. You'll also get a short pause between codes as well, so have a pad and paper ready and keep your eyes on the check engine light.
check for spark, at the spark plug wires. pull one off , get a helper, put a screwdriver in the sparkplug boot and hold it about 1/4 inch away from something metal on the car engine, have a friend start the car while you look for a small lighting bolt to jump from the screwdriver to the cars metal part. if you dont see spark you got bad parts somewhere. HOLD THE RUBBER ON THE SCRWDRIVER so u dont get a zap
it sounds to me that the sensor your talking about is the camshaft positioning sensor. It regulates how much fuel you get to your engine, so that is also why you have the fuel smell as well.
try this : with the car in park start it, then from park move it down one. if it is reverse move it down another one, now that should be neutral, then the next one should always be drive
I have the same problem, when i come to a complete stop, it idles ruff then quits. I have found out that the gas tank does biuld up pressure not sure if this fixes it, but i usually just put my car into nuetral and it doesnt die on me. that seems to work fine. But its really frustrating when your sitting in traffic and the car dies!
hi,im just wondering what the weight and horse power is on the 89 z24,3.1L i just bought???
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