Just to clarify you technically do not need to buy a new fuel pump assembly/module ( which should include the fuel level sending unit/float and fuel pressure sensor) You can buy just the fuel level sending unit and replace it. But at the same time it is a good idea to replace the entire fuel pump assembly if you have 80k+ miles on it. Maybe 100K. Otherwise your going to do the work twice. Trust me it sucks.(Also change the fuel filter when replacing the pump assembly) You can try using cheveron fuel treatment to break up the gunk thats preventing the sensor from working. Try doing this and go through two to three full tanks and see if theres improvement, following the instructions of course.. May or may not work. If you do this I would recommend changing the fuel filter shortly after. All that broken up gunk has to go somewhere!!! Easy to do and cheap. An alternative for a temporary solution is to pull the fuel level sending unit and clean it up. Usually it gets heavily gunked up from dirty gas and cant function properly. If you go this route be delicate with it... dont scratch any surfaces etc. There are tons of tutorials on this out there. I got an extra 10 months out of my fuel level sensor doing this. Until my pump went out and i replaced the whole assembly. It probably would have lasted longer. Also when going this route be sure to buy a new fuel pump tank gasket and the c ring that locks the whole assembly into place. Very important as you dont want fumes coming out of the tank and possibly in your cabin or fuel itself when you fill the tank all the way lol. Yes it will splash out if the seal is bad. It can be kinda hard doing it the first time but if your mechanically inclined at all and can follow a manual you can save a lot of labor expenses. Lastly I am fairly certain there is an access panel to the fuel pump assembly in your trunk, located behind the spare tire close to the back seat. Lift the carpet up and take a glance. If your rear seat doesnt have a center folding section then you will have to remove the rear seat to get to the panel and do the work. Very easy removal and a lot easier than dropping the gas tank. Dont be afraid to ask questions. Its better than doing something like forgetting to relieve the fuel pressure and soaking everything when you pull the hoses connected to the fuel pump.
I hate to differ but the tank does not need to be dropped. There is an oval access panel inside the trunk, under the carpet and pad past the spare tire closer to the back seat. Pull back the carpet and remove the screws holding the access panel. The sending unit module is under that panel with two electrical plugs that need to be disconnected. Remove the screws that hold the module and CAREFULLY lift out the module. There is a fine, wire filament that is likely not making connection to the resistor board on the bottom of the module. If tweaking the connection doesn't cure the problem, then you will need to replace the module (which includes the pump assy.). Unfourtunately, this is a fairly expensive part.
SOURCE: 2000 Buick Century gas gauge reads full all the time
You're either looking at a short in the wire that goes to the fuel sender, or a bad fuel sender. If it was just a broken wire, it would read empty instead. The fuel sender is a permanent part of the fuel pump, so that has to be replaced as a unit.
SOURCE: gmc jimmy 1999, fuel gauge reading empty, even
the sending unit inside the tank has a open circuit that will not complete the signal to the dash gage. The tank will have to be dropped to replace this. The fuel pump is also a part of the sending unit. The part is not very cheap neither
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