how do i get out the altanator on a 2001 pathfinder
Disconnect the battery - both positive and negative terminals and remove battery from holder (better access that way). From underneath - remove the plastic shield underneath the front of the car. It is held on by a few bolts. Remove the upper radiator hose (some coolant will drain out). Also free the cable from the support bracket on the top of the platic fan housing. There is an overflow hose that is also clipped to the fan housing unlcip the hose and move it out of the way. From underneath, push in on the clips and the lower half of the fan housing will come out of the bottom. From the top - remove the two bolts holding the upper part of the fan housing and you should be able to work it out from the top. You should now have better visibility and access to the alternator. Loosen the belt tensioner (from below) and remove the belt. There are two mounting bolts on the alternator, a long one through the alternator and a second on the "dog ear" of the alternator. Once the alternator is free - you can get at the battery cable post and the other wires. The wiring harness can be removed by pressing in on the locking clip. Most difficult is the wiring harness support bracket. A short 10mm wrench can get to it. The alternator is now free but will have to be manipulated forward so that it sits below the fan. Once there - you can reach down from the top, and pull the alternator into the larger gap between the fan blades. While rotating the fan, bring the alternator around with it to the top and it will come out. To reinstall -- do everything in reverse. I recommend replacing the belt so you don;t have to do this again.
Posted on Dec 12, 2009
Instructions and level of difficulty to Remove and Install the Starter for 2001 Nissan Pathfinder. And the the best place to purchase including the exact model #.
The starter is right under the oil filter. The biggest problem will be seeing what you are doing and then being able to get around in the space to do anything. A mirror may help a bit to see what you are doing. This what I would suggest. The first thing you want to do is disconnect the battery so you don't get burned. Next, give yourself some room to work. Remove the guard plate then remove the oil filter and the exhaust manifold heat shield as well as the front passenger side tire and the rubber splash guard from the fender. From the side you should now be able to see inside a little bit from where the tire was. Disconnect the oil pressure indicator which is to the left of the oil filter. I used a long flat edge screw driver and stuck it in to disengage the clip which holds it on. You should be able to get at the nut from up top to remove the one cable off the starter now. The bottom nut is just connected to the starter itself. There should only be the one connector left. If you can get at it push down on it about an inch or so from the end and pull. You have to disengage the clip on it or it won't come off. If it give you problems, you might get away with leaving it on until you have the starter loose. But do remove the cable from it's fasteners to give it slack. Once you have everything disconnected you can take off the starter. You get at the bolt from behind the flywheel; not from the starter side. What I did was position the new starter like the old one is sitting to get an idea of where the bolts would be. They are by the exhaust so you may need to look a bit for them. You will probably need a extension to get at these. I just left the bolts in the holes. When the bolts are removed the starter should drop, or at least loosen. The starter will need to slide out toward the front of the motor. In my case, a steel rod from the steering was partially blocking the way. You need to drop this rod down about an inch. What I found was that all you need to down is take the one nut off the steering on the passenger side which is connected to the frame and pound it down until the starter clears. It is a little hard to explain but it is closest to the bumper and is not the tie rods. You should now be able to remove the starter. Remember how you got the starter out because you will need to put the new one in the exact same way the old one came out. Before you do this clean up all the old oil and crud from the area and make sure not to get any in the flywheel area. Hopefully this helps. Good luck.
Posted on Nov 06, 2009
I need a fuse diagram for 2001 Nissan Pathfinder
Do you want to install a new unit or wht ? u may use this reference to work upon ....
Get yourself a digital multimeter. Find the +12V constant, 12V remote,
and ground. Connect them to the new head unit. For speaker wire get
yourself a 9V toy battery and listen to poping noise. If you have a
factory amp you need to power up the factory amp. Use the wiring
diagram below to serve as a guide. Test your wire first before
connecting them.
NISSAN
P o w e r
Memory (+12v Constant) Red
Ignition (+12v Switched) (varies) Brown or Green
Ground (-) Black (varies - most don't have one)
Illumination Red/White
Dimmer Red/Black
Power Antenna Green
S p e a k e r s
Right Front (+) Brown
Right Front (-) Brown/White
Left Front (+) Black
Left Front (-) Black/White
Right Rear (+) Blue
Right Rear (-) Pink
Left Rear (+) Red
Left Rear (-) Green
Posted on Feb 04, 2010
where is the bank one sensor 2 oxygen sensor located on a 2001 pathfinder v6 3.5 2wd
The diagram below is from the Factory Service Manual for a 2001.0 year Pathfinder. The rear oxygen sensors are parts 1 and 3. They are easy to spot from under the car, in the region of the front wheels.
Posted on Nov 06, 2010
how do I change the headlight bulb in my Nissan Pathfinder
Hope this helps and please don't forget to rate! This helps us help you' Thanks! The headlamp is a semi-sealed beam type which uses a replaceable halogen bulb. The bulb can be replaced from the engine compartment side without removing the headlamp body. Disconnect the harness connector from the back side of the bulb
Removal & Installation
Posted on May 12, 2011
What causes the ECCS2 fuse to blow on a 2001 Nissan pathfinder
Usually what happens is that the power wire between the fuse block and the computer itself tends to ground out on something. Possibly another wire or a peice of metal.
Posted on May 27, 2012
rear door won't open and key won't turn in lock
I have had this issue twice on my '98 Pathfinder. The hinge inside the exterior door latch rusts over time and sticks. As suggested in some other answers, the BEST way to get it open is as follows: Pull the latch open and spray WD-40 into the handle openings using the spray tube that came with the WD-40. You may need to repeat this. Note, when I use the word 'latch', I'm talking about the part you pull to open the door, not the lock, which is a separate part inside the door connected to the latch by a metal rod.
There are many ways to then hit the latch to jar the stuck hinge loose. To prevent damage, I folded up an old dish towel, placed it over the latch, and pounded it with medium force with a rubber mallet. It may take just a few hits, or it could take literally hundreds. Initially, the exterior latch will flop loosely. You can see if you're making progress by checking the latch periodically. It will gradually start to break loose and this will be reflected in restored tension in the previously floppy latch. The longer you hit, the tension will eventually be felt through the whole range of motion in the latch. Once full tension is restored, it will open the door.
The first time I did this repair, I simply considered it fixed and stopped working on it. Big mistake, because the locks stuck again in just a couple months and took a lot more work to get open the second time. These latches are cheap and easy to replace (check rockauto.com or other sites - I got my new latches for $12 each).
You must be VERY careful when changing them, otherwise you'll be opening up the door, which isn't necessary if you do it right. To change the latch - remove the two grommets from the door jamb at the latch. Use a 10mm nutdriver to remove the two nuts holding the latch. Care must be taken not to drop the nuts inside the door, but the nuts are angled slightly upward, so gravity is on your side.
Next, CAREFULLY pull the latch out of the door the minimum amount necessary to clear the opening and expose the latch rod that runs from the latch to the lock. IMPORTANT: Before removing the rod from the latch, get a pair of small locking pliers (long hemostat or needle nose vise grips) and attach it to the rod about 1/2" below the latch to hold it in place. This is necessary because once you remove the two nuts holding the latch to the door and the nylon grommet that attaches the rod to the latch, the only thing holding the rod in place is gravity. If you lift the rod more than about 1" while doing this work, it will disengage from the lock inside the door. I learned this the hard way on my first door and actually dropped the rod to the very bottom inside the door. Once the rod is secured with pliers, remove the rod from the nylon retainer clip on the latch and pull the latch free from the door. Installation of the new latch is the opposite procedure.
The second door was a breeze to fix since I didn't have to remove the door panel to retrieve the rod - the whole replacement took less than 10 minutes.
Posted on Oct 29, 2016
drives like it is on four wheel drive. will only go into four lo and neutral. will driving vehicle while transfer case is in neutral effect drivablility?
something you may want to try to get transfer case into hi gear
.while driving forward, coast at appx 10 mph and place your transmission in neutral while still coasting at 10 mph then try shifting your transfer case to hi .this is a technique used on a lot of different vehicles to get the transfer case to shift. If it shifts into hi range then place your transmission into drive while coasting and should then be where you want.it technique also works to place vehicle into low from hi on a lot of vehicles.hope this helps solve your problem. chris
Posted on Mar 20, 2014
What's the proper torque setting for the seven bolts securing the lower oil pan? Gasket is in place.. Vehicle has a mystery oil seep from somewhere, but the oil pan gasket doesn't appear to be source.
oil pan bolts are torqued in inch lbs due to their size and usually doesn't require a specific torque value. all bolts in a manual does show torque settings in all applications.However because of its non critical application a specific value is not necessary. a "snug" tightness is adequate with proper gasket/sealer in place to prevent seepage or leaks. in that area of the engine,leak can come from almost anywhere. top,front,or even rear of the engine blown by the wind a car creates while in motion. oil sensors{ but not limited to} are notorious for leaks as the vehicle ages particularly in that area. steam clean or thoroughly degrease the area and run the engine a few miles and recheck the area before proceeding to make repairs.
Posted on May 28, 2014
2001 pathfinder shifter is stuck in park. When I step on the brake it won't release the shifter. Would the problem be the shift lock relay?
Scott, Yes it could be the relay/solenoid faulty or weak. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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