20 Most Recent 1986 Mazda 626 Coupe Questions & Answers

check the linkages (rods connecting stick and gearbox) my e2000 is also stuck in third mechanic friday then ill post my discoveries

gently pull the carpet back

IF it is an automatic it is the ignition isolator switch that only works in park or neutral. If it is a manual it may be the clutch isolation switch or the neutral switch in the box. As it is a required safety device in the car It will be easier to replace the faulty switch

most power window problems relate to faulty earth continuity, check that you have power to all the switches. then test the earth circuit. the other thing that goes wrong, the loom to the doors are liable to snap the wires through wear and tear, just bridge across the break.

Check the gauge fuse under the dash

Amigo, el fusible es el

Uhh there are no rods in the head. That dealer has a loose rod in his head maybe.
The crank, rods and pistons are all in the bottom end of the engine.
What it likely is is either a broken piston skirt or a spun rod bearing.
Spun crank bearings are rare and sound deep.
A spun rod bearing can be fairly quiet on idle depending how bad it is worn out, but it will be really loud on acceleration. Piston slap from a broken skirt can be pretty loud too but it mostly sounds like diesel rattle only a bit less. Some have described it as a loud pinging sound like detonation.
Drain the oil and check for metal debri. If you can tilt the vehicle a bit for the oil to drain more towards the drain hole that could help. Then look for metal pieces and judge their size. There should be NO glitter whatsoever in engine oil, or any kind of debri. Now a rear end or transmission is different. Those always have a little metalic sheen to them.
Best of luck.

click here
click above should take you to a site that lets you download the manual you need if it dont let me know then ill send you another link with other manuals for you.

Let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

I would suggest a repair manual from autoparts store, it should have an electrical schematic. Good Luck!

when you start it if you press brake will it select gear

1- For the overheat, remove the thermostat to run for a few days to see the problem come back. When the engine runs at iddle, press the upper hose connecting to the radiator to see there is a water flowing inside. a- IF there is then your water pump is OK. After a few days, put back the new thermostat to run as normal. b- IF there is not then you need to replace the water pump first.
2- For your battery draining. a- IF you change only the starter, then the solenoid is the culprit, not the battery, not the alternator. b- IF you have changed both then I suspect the diode in the starter and the battery. c- To determine which one is in item b, take off negative battery cable for 2 days, - if there is no problem when hooking back then alternator diode is a culprit. - if there is a problem when hooking back then the battery is a culprit. Good luck.

tdc for crank and i seem to remember the cam timing marks are on the back of the cam,remove the rocker cover to check if iam right ,but look front bearing cap and beck one in case its the other end or for a flat on the back of the cam that must be horizontal

Sounds like a cracked cyllinder head