Hello, I have a 2009 TSX Acura. It's been giving me so many problems and is only at 80k miles. I took it to the dealership, my warranty is unfortunately up and I paid for both cataylic converters to b
stalls, are caused by 4 forces, in physics. (basics, there are others)
the dealer (or any mech) cant fix a non broken car so taking it
there is and invitation to gue$$ and he did. and was wrong.
the TOP question is can you save the stall with a fast right foot.
yes, no , easy , hard, impossible..>>?????????
key question and answer, ???? please answer this.KQ1
fails hot and cold that is,stalls hot and cold engine>???? KQ2:
KQ3: did the CEL lamp come on before the STALL.?
Pure Physics.
1: lost 12vdc power, to EFI system (dash lamps dim,)
if it didnt dim, then the battery was good, why change a good battery
or alternator, if it didnt dim or the charge lamp comes on.?????
2: lost compression, in any cylinder, below 150PSI is suspect.
3: lost or weak spark or timed wrong.
4: wrong fueling rates.
each of these factors can be monitored driving,except compression.
im not sure which is the easier test path poor starts, or stalls.
one thing that is easy and near free, is to scan the car full time.
I watch all the sensors and then log data, for them and drive
and when it stalls i have a SIGNATure of the failure.
Do i see pending DTCS. or live DTC errors that clear before a stall?
see CKP errors, CMP errors, ECT reads funny and not 180F
see MAP. or MAF (as the case may apply) read wrong?
say just before the stall the MAF dropped radically?
non of these sensors are hard to monitor. not today, because all scan tools work today.
your dealer probable wont do all that, because his to busy making cash, and building other tickets.
find an ASE independent shop, not a dealer. id never go to a dealer
until it was my last dying breath, (wits end)
which engine is in the car? most cars have 2 or more options.
solving engine issues, one need to know that.. exactly.
now ill do cold starts. (first thing AM , morning)
1: fresh spark plugs. in car.
2: i key one and with scan tool look at the ECT, , is it matching
the overnight parked temperature, say last night it was say, 30F
and my engine block reads say 40f. that be good.
but if it read 0F, the sensor is bad, and no cold starts will ever be right.
I look at the IAT, it will be near the ECT, they equalize parked over night.
(lil' trick there) so it read say, 43F, ok its working...
3: i start then engine, the starter runs at full speed, about 250rpm
if not we work that problem first.
4: it cranks fast and dont want to start, i halt.
I yank out a spark plug (inscrew it CCW) and the tips are dry.
(underfueling.) i work that.
its soaking wet, fit fuel, its overfueling, i work that.
The spark might be weak if wet plugs. or too high fuel pressure.
The Fuel pressure might be low if underfueling.
if only one tips s wet that injector is leaking (3 causes)
if all tips are wet, that means , total over injection
if all tips are dry that means total, lack of injection.
just a short list, which path i take ,depends on the tests that fail.
and can make a whole new list. but above a have poor starts and fresh spark plugs.
hope that helps.
