I am trying to get side cover off of my freemotion 330 r bike i have removed the pedal and all of the screws i am doing this so i can adjust the tension

Actually there is nothing that you can fell like 0

use lock tight

it is pressure fit. most bicycle shops have a tool .it threads in the hole then u turn handle to remove. you could also use a gear puller

Step 1:

please follow the instruction and fix it. God bless you.
Pedal Arms

1

Use a flat screwdriver to unseat the tabs that hold the front top cover in place. This will expose the flywheel and pedal arm connection points. Rotate the flywheel by hand and determine whether lubrication will accomplish the repairs. If the bearings are exposed, use a grease gun with an extension nozzle and lubricate both bearings with lithium grease. If the bearings are damaged or sealed, proceed to the next step.

2

Remove the front and side covers on the main frame. Hold the flywheel with one hand and use a box wrench to loosen the bolts that secure the pedal arms at each side of the flywheel. Pull the arms away from the flywheel and remove the bearings from each side.

3

Test the bearings as before. Lubricate exposed bearings with lithium grease and reinstall them. Sealed bearings must be replaced. Reattach the pedal arms to the flywheel. Replace the main frame covers and front top cover to complete the repairs.

Step 2:

LUBRICATION

1

Prepare to oil by filling a grease gun with lithium grease. Check your owner's manual for the exact type of grease for your unit.

2

Locate where it is you need to lubricate. Focus on the bearings, free-moving joints and attachments with moving parts such as handle bars, wheels, pedals arms and guide rails. Go to each location one by one when greasing.

3

Unfasten the bolts or screws that hold the joint or attachment that you wish to lubricate.

4

Grease each bolt and screw liberally. Tighten each bolt and screw back into its place when finished.

5

Wipe away any excess greas

Step 3:

Drive Belt

1

Remove the screws or bolts securing the ends of the pedals to the crank axles. Slide the ends of the pedals off the axles. Remove any screws or bolts securing the left and right disc shields to the base unit. Pull or pry the disc shields off the base unit and set them aside.

2

Remove any screws or bolts securing the left and right side shields to the base unit. Detach the side shields and set them aside. Examine the interior of the base unit and locate the drive belt.

3

Pull the drive belt free of the crank pulley, flywheel and any other pulleys. Discard the old drive belt and install a new belt in its place. Turn the crank axles by hand to confirm that the belt will turn smoothly when the device is in use

I just fixed a C100with the same problem today as follows:
Take off the pedals, seat pole, and side panels ( 3 long screws on the top and 4 short screws on the bottom then push out [from the inside] the pedal shaft outlet covers and gently take the covers off by turning the pedal shaft). You'll see the cable to the wheel and secure it to the lower chassis rail by tape or a cable tie, then undo the lock nut on the cable end and extend the screwed sleeve by 10 mm. You'll then see that pulling and releasing the outer cable will loosen and tighten the magnetic brake more smoothly. Good Luck, Andy

1. Remove the screw covers, screws and parking brake trim cover.
2. Turn the adjuster as needed to attain the proper adjustment.

Make sure the brakes do not drag when the parking brake lever is released.

1. Reinstall the trim cover.
2. Depress the pedal 2 notches.
3. Tighten the adjusting nut at the pedal assembly until the rear brakes just begin to drag when rotated.
4. Release the parking brake lever and check that the wheels do not drag when turned. The parking brake should engage in 3-5 notches when a force of 66 lbs. (294 Nm) is applied to the parking brake pedal.
5. Lower the vehicle

Detachthe ends of the pedals from the crank axles. Spread a layer of machine greaseover the crank axles, then reattach the ends of the pedals.2
Removethe bolts connecting the pedals to the swing arms. Detach the pedals from thearms, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the swing arms.On some models, the bolts may also serve as the axles. Reattach the pedals tothe arms.3
Removethe bolts connecting the swing arms to the elliptical's upright. Detach theswing arms from the upright, then spread a layer of machine grease over theaxles on the upright. Reattach the arms to the upright.

Which model?

Clipping in and out is a learned skill.

That screw in the picture is probably the tension adjuster. Give it a half turn one way or the other but be careful to NOT remove it.

http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-41451-MTB-CLIPLESS-PEDALS/dp/B000BMT440

Disconnect the positive battery cable. Drain the primaary and remove the derby cover. Take the spirng and the locknut out. Go to the bottom of the primary cover and loosen the lock nut on the primary chain adjuster and back the adjust out a good little bit. Remove anything that's in the way of the primary cover and remove all the bolts in the outer cover. Turn the clutch adjuster clockwise as your remvove the cover.

On the other side of the bike, disconnect the positive battery cable from the starter and remove the exhaust from the bike.

Back on the left side of the bike, remove the two bolts just above the clutch assembly. They are different lengths so remember which goes where.

Reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly. When you put the outer primary back on, turn the screw counterclockwise until you can put the bolts back into the primary cover. Once all of them are in and tight, turn the screw counterclockwise as far as it will go and then go back clockwise 1/4 turn. Put the locknut, spring, and derby cover back on the primary. Adjust the primary chain by turning the screw inwards until you have 5/8" to 1/2" inch of up and down play on the chain. Feel of it throught the upper inspection hole. Once finished, add one quart of primary lube to the primary.

Good Luck
Steve

The Electra Hellbilly has a three piece crank/bottome bracket. There are many things that can cause a knocking noise on your bike. I will give you a few places that you can check but you may need to take it to your local bike shop.
1st. Check the pedals. Take a 15 mm open end wrench or pedal wrench and makes sure the pedal are tight. Also check the pedals for any play in the bearings or tight spots. If they seem to have any issues, try a new set of pedals. Test ride.
2nd. Make sure the crankarms are tight. Use a 14mm socket wrench. You may need to remove a cover over the nut with a small flat head screwdrive. If you have a torque wrench, they should be between 25 and 35 ft lbs. Test ride.
3rd. Check the chain tightness. It should have just a small amount of play in the chain. Also check the chain for tight links or bad links. Do this by either flipping the bike, putting it in a stand or having someone hold the rear of the bike up while pedaling and watching for the chain to not flow over the cog in the like the rest of the links. If you find a tight link you will have the work it loose by hand, going back and forth with the tight link your hand and lubing it with something like tri-flow. Test Ride.
4th. The last two solutions are better off adjusted but your local bike shop. You need to check the bottom bracket and rear hub. We can start with the hub. While standing over the rear wheel, move it side to side. If you feel any play then your hub is out of adjustment. Adjusting the hub requires cone wrenches so unless you have the tools it will be less expensive to have it done. For the bottom bracket, grab one of the crankarms and move it side to side, if there is any play here then it requires adjustment. Once again it requires special bicycle specific tools so it would be less expensive just to have the repair done.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you need any other help. You can contact me at [email protected]. Thank you