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Anonymous Posted on Oct 21, 2019

Is there special instructions/video to bleed the Magura RT8C?

I have tried the YouTube instruction for Magura RT8 TT with not much success. And unlike the Shimano hydraulic system, there is no valve/nipple on the brake caliper to close/open to test if pressure is building up ok. The Quick Release system also makes it complicated to test and bleed the system.

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Damian Hla

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  • Posted on Oct 21, 2019
Damian Hla
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I came across similar challenge when trying to fit the Magura RT8 TT brakes on my road bike with the Shimano Dura Ace levers. So converting to RT8C is a nice way to enable hydraulic rim braking with my normal cable operated road levers.

The original PDF instructions does not mention much about the RT8C as it is geared towards RT8 TT. The YouTube video is also for RT8 TT, not useful for RT8C.

Having tried half a dozen times with different techniques, I finally found a way that works and it works consistently each and every time. And I am happy to share this with others. Hopefully this would reduce the level of frustration involved when trying to bleed a RT8C system, as this as simple as a Shimano or SRAM hydraulic brake.

You would need to Magura Pro Bleed Kit to complete this procedure.

Here is the procedure I follow:

  1. Ensure RT8C is levelled.
  2. Tip and reposition the bike on bike stand, to ensure RT8C is slightly higher than the brake calliper, to ensure any air bubbles in the hydraulic system rises toward to outlet port of RT8C for collection.
  3. Depress the Quick Release on RT8C to depressurize the hydraulic system.
  4. Remove the Hex bolt to open the inlet port on the brake calliper and connect syringe with brake fluid. If the previous step has been done properly, no fluid should rush out.
  5. Remove the EBT screw to open the outlet port on the RT8C and connect the Pro Bleed kit. If the inlet port has been connected to syringe properly, no fluid should rush out.
  6. Position the drainage tube of the Pro Bleed kit such that it immediate ascends vertically after the fluid exits the outlet port, gaining as much altitude as possible. You would need to hang the Pro Bleed kit a bit higher than the RT8C. The drainage tube itself would form a staging vertical column of brake fluid to enable air bubbles to rise and purge from the system. Note that this technique does NOT require constant flushing of brake fluid thru the system. In fact, if done properly, no fluid should be drained into the Pro Bleed kit bottle. The vertical column of brake fluid serves as the exchange, to allow proper purging of air from the system whilst immediately filling those gaps with brake fluid.
  7. Plunge the syringe just a bit, until brake fluid appears in the drainage tube vertical column created in previous step, and form roughly a 10-15cm column of brake fluid.
  8. Now depress and release the brake levers in quick successions and repeatedly. You should see some air bubbles appearing in the staging vertical column of brake fluid.
  9. Let bubbles rise to the top. As this happens the brake fluid would rush in the fill the void. The fluid level will drop. Plunge the syringe a bit further to push more air bubbles out until the 10-15cm column is restore.
  10. Repeat the previous 3 steps until no more bubbles can be seen
  11. Now depress and release the Quick release mechanism to purge any air bubbles within; Repeat this step until no bubbles can be seen. You may need to use your fingers to move the quick release pistons manually, whilst having the QR lock depressed. Just popping the QR piston out once or twice is not enough. Manually exercise the pistons in a push/pull fashion in quick successions to achieve effective air bubble purging.
  12. Repeat the previous 5 steps until no more bubbles can be seen. You may have to go thru a few cycles to ensure there is absolute no air bubbles in the system.
  13. The hydraulic system should now be free from air bubbles
  14. Leave the Quick Release open to ensure extra fluid is in the system to re-pressurize the hydraulics once both the inlet and outlet ports are closed.
  15. Check how responsive the vertical column of brake fluid is, in relation to brake level movements; also check this with the QR lock release movements. You should see direct correlation of rise/fall of the brake fluid when these levers and valves being operated. If not responsive, then there is still air in the system. Repeat previous steps until the outcome has been achieved.
  16. Reposition the Pro Bleed kit so that it is BELOW the outlet port, so that upon disconnection, all the remaining fluid in the vertical column shall drain into the bottle.
  17. Disconnect the drainage pipe connector of the Pro Bleed kit from the outlet port. And hold the connector high to drain all fluid into the bottle.
  18. Screw on the EBT screw; Wipe clean
  19. Disconnect the input tube of the syringe from the inlet port; Retract the syringe piston until no fluid is in the connection pipe to minimize dripping.
  20. Screw on the Hex bolt; Wipe clean
  21. Wipe clean all inlet and outlet ports from brake fluid using Isopropyl Alcohol.

Hope you would find this helpful.

Testimonial: "Thank you very much for the instructions. It works perfectly."

  • hamishbec Feb 13, 2021

    once you have done the bleed you can fine tune your pad position with two hex screws behind the front cover I usually back these out a few turns before bleeding. DONT back them all the way out or in as they will drop off the captive nut on top of the piston and you will never get them back in 3 turns either way should be fine just watch the screw and the plate it mounts in
    Its a pity Magura provided useless instructions with these brakes they a great upgrade for older frames without disc or direct mount

×

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 9 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 21, 2008

SOURCE: 1986 gmc sierra 1500 front rt brake locks up

check brake lines they may have gotten pinched very commonok new c/k trucks when you crank the torsion bars up to far you may have hit something and pinched the brake line check those before messing with the master cylinder those are a real pain

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Anonymous

  • 10 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 29, 2008

SOURCE: no brakes

Hi,
Check the Brake master pump......If the padle drops to the floor means The booter is ok,,,,! I think the Brake master pump has a internal leak.....Reply me.....

Anonymous

  • 1861 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 22, 2009

SOURCE: replced front brake pads and calipers adjusted

Bleed the master cylinder first. You have to do that before you belled any calipers or wheel cylinder.

Anonymous

  • 16 Answers
  • Posted on May 09, 2009

SOURCE: location of brake/clutch bleed valve nipple

AHH look for it by the slave cylinder it might have a black rubber cap on it to keep dust out it will look simliar to the bleeder valve on the brake system

Anonymous

  • 15 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 20, 2009

SOURCE: suzuki Vitara front brakes seizing intermitantely.

Be sure you have changed the break oil completely. Otherwise drain the hydraulic system and renew with correct type of oil. If you have a ABS system you have to check that also.

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Talk to you soon. TT
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