Have the battery checked any auto motive store will test for free if u cant get to one and u cant charge it replace the battery with another
SOURCE: 1998 explorer sport, 4.0 sohc alternator wiring
you mean no alt.output or burn wiring,if burn wiring you can get a connector in any parts store,if not you need to check your fuse its a 7.5 amps for charging system
SOURCE: 1988 chevy suburban charging system
First check alt At The Back of Alt Big Red Wire Were hooks to Post (stud) Do you have voltage ?? How Much??
What Voltage do you have at same Place with Engine Running ??
Now At wires Were they plug into Alt ,Top. Wires in White Plastic Clip, Do You Have Powe With Key On ?? How Much Voltage??
Jump across the 2 in the clip (with Engine Running)ONLY TEMPORARY!! Do You Have Voltage at Battery ?? How Much??
If Over 13volts With Clip On (Jumped) You Need A Internal Voltage Regulator ..
Is Batt Light On on Dash ??? Theres A Lot Of Testing You Can Do !!! And I will Need More Infomation to Keep Going ... These are just some Possible Problems No Way In Depth ...
Could Be a Number of things Or May be Just as Simple As a Blown Fuse, Dirty Batt Cables ETC etc etc I Hope It Puts You On The Right track !!!!!!!!!!
SOURCE: Battery and Alternator Good. Alternator not working. HELP!!!
djn, I believe you have some accessory that is on when the key is in the off position.
Check to make certain glove box light is not on when the glove box door is closed and the trunk light is not on.
If you have an aftermarket radio or any added accessories make sure they are not wired direct to battery voltage.
If all that checks out, disconnect the battery negative and connect a test light between the battery and battery cable. If the light is on you have a drain in the electrical system. Leave the light connected and begin removing 1 fuse at a time until the light goes out, that will tell you what component or circuit is draining the battery.
Last resort, you may have an alternator drawing the battery down.
Good luck and let me know.
Regards,
SOURCE: Battery dosn't charge, alternator/voltage adapter test's good.
Did you test the Alternator on or off the truck? It might be a problem with the control system to the Alternator. The regulator need a battery feed to work, It is usually ran through an alternator fuse.
SOURCE: 2003 Chevy Suburban-replace alternator
Ok, Alternators are a breeze on these things. There are two bolts that hold it on, and 2 sets of wires. If you haven't taken anything apart yet, and the belt is still on it, here's what to do. You will want one of those rubber or elastic bungee cords, about 2 and a half feet long(this makes it easy). Hook that bungee cord to your hood somewhere, so that it hangs down. Hook the other end on the serpentine belt right next to the alternator pulley. If you need to prop the hood up with a stick or something to keep it up, do so. Pull up on the belt, and watch the pulleys. The one that probably has a plastic pulley on it that moves up and down(this is the tensioner) is the one that you'll put a deep well socket in the middle of with a ratchet, and turn counterclockwise. This will make the belt go loose. Now you can work the belt off the alternator pulley, and once you get it off, the bungee cord will keep it in place, so you don't have to look at the diagram. Otherwise, if it comes off, there is a sticker just under the hood either on the fan shroud or the radiator support that has the belt diagram. Now, you can disconnect the battery, pull the rubber boot down off the nut and post on the back of the alternator, remove the nut and wire, and then unhook the wire from the side of the alternator. Now, you can remove the two bolts that hold the alternator on. You Will need to pry the alternator off at this point, as it fits really tightly in place. A socket extension or a large flat screwdriver works really well for this. Once you get it off, put the new one on exactly as you took the old one off. Note, you will have to release your tension on the tensioner at some point; i just ease it down, or if I can pull it off, wedge it somewhere where it won't loosen very far. Remember, on the tensioner, you're not trying to take the nut off. All you're doing is using it to move the tensioner arm. That's all there is to this job. Sometimes it can be stubborn with the prying part, especially getting it into place. Hope this is what you're after, and if you need more info, leave a comment for me.
Testimonial: "Great advice on the bungee cord!! Well written advide and easy for a novice to follow. Thanks"
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