Question about Black Diamond ATC Belay/Rappel Device Fall 2008 at Moosejaw

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Rock Climbing Harness with Auto Belay, where to hook on?

I have a fresh new Momentum Speed Black Diamond harness and I'm still confused, if I were to tie in my rope, I would tie in on the tie in hoops, but what if I were to Auto Belay? Where do I hook on the swivel carabiner?

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Anonymous

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Easiest is to hook the swivel carabiner to the belay loop.  This is a sewn loop of webbing that connects the leg loops to your waist belt.

Posted on May 26, 2009

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2 Answers

What is an ATC in Climbing?


We use belay device as a mechanical equipment used to control a rope during Climbing. And an ATC or Air Traffic Controller is a type of belay and rappel device introduced by Black Diamond, which is a tubular device gives more area and steeper angles to creat friction and stopping power .
The ATC has found the most commonly used type of belay device, and so the model name of ATC has become synonymous with tubular belay devices.

The original Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller device debuted in 1993, designed by Chuck Brainerd,
The improvement over plate devices is that plates could move down and lock against the carabiner when the rope was pulled hard. By using a tube instead of a plate, the slots were a half-inch above the carabiner and now the rope could be fed under tension. This made belay mechanics much easier. The sharper edge also generates more friction, giving the belayer better control.
Hope you find it helpful and appropriate ,and if you need any further information or tips about Rock climbing ,Gears,Shoes,accessories or anything else, you can have a look on this Climbing review Blog

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Best Rock Climbing Shoes In 2018 Rock Climbing Shoes For Outdoor

Apr 09, 2018 | Cars & Trucks

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What are the best belay device for solo climbing?


If you are looking for a partner to go for Rock climbing but you cannot find a single one, you should know about Solo climbing.
There are two types of solo climbing:
1:Free-solo: this means climbing without any ropes or other protection.
2:Roped-solo, as the named suggests, ropes are used in case of a fall.
Free solo climbing is extremely dangerous than roped soloing but proper rig can make a safe way for you.
Without tying a leader into the rope, the rope is tied of at the ground, or at a belay station on a multi pitch route. Controlling the rope can be done I many ways. My favoured way is with a Petzl Grigri, but there are other similar or related devices on the market. Lets have a look on them.
  • Petzl Grigri+: This Game Changer is pretty Similar to the previous series Grigri 2, cam inside the device pivots when the rope is pulled through quickly, cinching the rope tight and slowing or stopping it with anti-panic function as well.

  • Wild Country Revo : Pretty similar to the way a seatbelt works. To lock down on the rope when the rope spins the wheel at a high number of revolutions per second. it has been known as Beginner's Best Friend.

  • Trango Vergo : It narrows the space for rope and stops from moving, where two plates are designed to pivot under the force. Natural Motion controlling device

  • Mad Rock Lifeguard : In this light and reliable device is set oncamming mechanism, which has been installed to changing the angle of the rope when a strong tug on the climber's end of the rope pulls it up.

There are many more belay device you can find out in market ,what makes me more satisfied and user's recommended. i have mentioned some of them at here.
For more Climbing tips and tricks ,you can visit this Climbing review blog, where plenty of topics and article related Rock climbing ,gears,tips and news and many more.

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Apr 07, 2018 | Rock & Ice Climbing

1 Answer

I don't want to drop my Grigri


I assume you're using the grigri to belay and are looking to extend the position of the Grigri from your harness to produce a sharper angle with your braking hand.  I suggest using one locking carabiner attached to your harness and another one attached to your harness, then connect the two with a sewn piece of webbing (or a short length of cord).  I would pick a webbing loop no longer than shoulder length, to keep the Grigri from being too far away from you. I would avoid making any changes to the grigri for the purpose you mention.

Apr 05, 2009 | Rock & Ice Climbing

2 Answers

Should I wear a helmet when rock climbing?


I am a firm believer that helmets are a indispensable part of your climbing rack. If you are in a toppeler situation or bouldering it probably isn't super necessary because you aren't going to take the kinds of falls on your head. However, if you're doing any sort of lead climbing, I do believe that helmets are really serious.

Dec 01, 2008 | Black Diamond Diamond Tracer Climbing...

1 Answer

What types of belays are there?


Sticht plate, ATC/Tubular Devices, Reverso, Gri-Gri, Figure eight and Self Belay Devices.

Dec 01, 2008 | Black Diamond Super 8 Belay Device

1 Answer

What are Belay devices?


These are mechanical friction brake devices used when belaying. They allow careful control of the belay rope. Their main purpose is to allow locking off of the rope with minimal effort. Many types of belay devices exist, and some of these may additionally be used as descenders, for controlled descent on a rope, that is, abseiling or rappeling. There are passive camming devices and active camming devices. Passive camming devices rely on the brake hand and a carabiner to lock off the rope. Sticht plates and the Air Traffic Controller ATC are examples of passive camming devices. Active camming devices have a built-in mechanism that locks off the rope without the help of any other pieces of equipment. A GriGri is an example. The offset cam in the GriGri locks off the rope automatically to catch a falling climber, much like a seatbelt in a car locks off to hold a passenger securely. The GriGri fails at around 9 kN of force. However, a GriGri, with its technology, often makes belayers become less vigilant. The GriGri is not a hands-free belay device. One mistake with the GriGri is reverse threading it. Reverse threading means to thread the GriGri the wrong way around, rendering the camming action useless. However, in a fall, with a reverse threaded GriGri, bending the rope sharply under the GriGri provides more than enough friction to hold a falling climber. An example of traditional belay is the Body Belay or the Hip Belay, where the rope is wrapped around the body to provide enough friction to catch a climber. This is often used in Alpine climbing, where the routes are easy, and the belay must be fast. Ice climbers often use a boot belay, where the rope is wrapped around one boot, thus providing friction.

Dec 01, 2008 | Black Diamond Super 8 Belay Device

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