Adjust water temperature

generic code for thermistor (temp sensor).

E1 Error Code This is an error on the thermistor. For instance, if your EcoSmart tankless water heater unit is displaying this E1 error code, it shows that you are being notified of the EcoSmart inlet thermistor that is not reading the proper temperature.Sept 22, 2021

Troubleshooting EcoSmart Tankless Water Heater Error Codes

No, they are not adjustable but you should get the pressure checked on your gas regulator. It could be low.

An adjustment need to be made on both of your slides. Depending on the type of slide, the adjustment would need to be done on the lower outside or by inside through the cabinet and under the bed. Making the adjustments are not difficult, getting to the adjustment points may be another story. One important point is to be careful to NOT over extend the slide, this can put excessive pressure on the wall and cause the fiberglass on the exterior to crack. I found out the hard way. Wether the points for adjustment are on the inside or outside, most likely it will be a combination of push bolt with a locking nut. You will need to adjust the lower part of the slide towards the inside to even up the gap. If you can get an actual measurement of the gap, you will want the bottom gap to be just slightly larger; roughly 1-2 mm or 1/16 to 1/8". Once the gap is corrected, now you will have to make an adjustment on the screw drive or worm gear to adjust how far out the slide moves. For an older unit, like my previous 5th wheel, it was easier to remove the anchor bolts from the floor, manually push the slide out to make the slide flush and then re-anchor the drive. However you may end up adjusting, make sure you do everything slow and gradual, keeping everything even.

When I upgraded my bed from a queen to a king, I had to adjust the entire motor assembly to have it centered on the slide for even pressure. While you have your tools out and working on this, take a few extra minutes to evaluate the foam seal gasket around the inside of the slide. If you see any tears or cracks, no matter how small, go ahead and replace it now to save you time and energy later and prevent outside elements from getting in.

I assume you mean set the temperature, and it is a difficult thing to do. These refrigerators use a pressure switch to control the temperature rather than a typical thermostat. Not all pressure switches can be adjusted, and if they can it requires a special refrigeration wrench.

Check the expansion tank for proper level of glycol heat transfer fluid. When hot it must be between the low and high level markes. Your expansion tank may be hidden behind a panel depending on manufacturer.

If level is low, you may have an air bubble in the system. Add antifreeze and find circulator pump. Turn pump up to high and set thermostat to highest temperature to force pump to run. Open bleeders found in one or more places in heating system to release air pockets. Leave pump on for 1/2 hour or so to gradually remove all air from system and release through expansion tank. Refill tank as necessary keeping level between high and low marks.

Turn pump speed back to normal for your comfort - mine gurgles in expansion tank if set above 2 on the adjustment knob found on face of pump motor.

Greetings and good health to you.
Ok, so I'm guessing by low you mean quantity and not temp, correct?
Does the cold water sputter as well? If so, most likely bad pump but we'll go with it just being the hot water for now.
Does the hot water act the same way on the other sink faucets? If not, the hot water is flowing freely without sputter, the problem will most likely be in the tub's hot water valve (knob) or the shower attachment. You can replace these rather easily.
If your hot water is low in quantity and sputtering only on the hot, then your hot water tank is not getting enough water to it which will cause it to be "low" and sputter as there isn't any water in there to pull from. If this is the case, we need to figure out what is causing the hot water tank to not have water in it.
Your pump is obviously working as you are only having issues with the hot water. Since using the hot water would normally use what hot water is sitting in the tank and thus pull in fresh water to heat up as the hot water exits. This would be the case if you are using the on board water storage and not hooked up to a hose for your water supply.
So, if this is the case, we need to find out where/why the water is not drawing in from the water storage to the hot water tank. First off, locate both tanks and make sure there isn't a valve on the water line that may be turned off or almost off. Check those water lines for any breakage or leaks. If not, if there are two lines coming out of the water storage, one for the cold and the other for the hot, see if you can notice anything in the water tank that may be blocking the "hot" line.
If all that is well, lets look at the water heater itself. I'm guess you would have noticed if this was leaking which is why I waited until now to bring it up. If you go outside and open the panel, does it look like it could have been leaking? Look at the plug (this is where your heating element is located) at the bottom center of the tank. Does it feel damp or can you see streaks going down from there? If unsure, hook up your hose to the water intake and turn it on. Watch the tank from the outside and see if it starts leaking. If it does, bad plug (heating element) easy and cheap to replace.
Once you see there is no leaking coming from the hot water tank, lets take out the heating element to make sure it is filling up. First shut off the water flow. You'll need a large adjustable wrench or if you happen to have that big of a socket, go for it. Remove the element. Water should start coming out as you unscrew it. Once you remove the element, water should flow freely out until empty.
Now, with the plug out, turn the water back on and see if it flows out of the tank. This will show flow is good up to this point.
Ok, so if there are no leaks thus far and the hot water tank is filling up when you hook up a hose, then we need to look and the connection line going from the tank to the rest of the faucets. Put the plug back in. Turn the water on again and follow the lines from the tank to the faucets looking for leaks.
Once you do all this, you should have an idea of what is happening where and possibly how to fix it.
Let me know how it turns out.

Gas, solar, or electric.

Unfortunately most RV hot water heaters DO NOT have a heat adjustment on them. Remember it is only (usually) a 6 gallon tank. The best suggestion I to use less cold water when mixing the water and remember to shut off the water in between soaping up and rinsing off. Google "navy showers" and you should find more info!

Slide adjustment is not an easy task because there are a lot of issues to take into account. One small adjustment below could throw the entire slide further out of adjustment. There could also be structural issues where the floor or walls are weak and no amount of adjustment will help. You are better off spending the money to have a trained technician make the necessary adjustments and save yourself from a lot of frustration down the road.

Some of these are temperature activated, have you tried adjusting that?