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I like to change my own oil in my 954. over the 8 year span the bolt on the oil pan has gotten rounded. i need to replace this pluc/bolt before it gets completely stripped. i was wondering what size bolt to buy as a replacement.
Re: I like to change my own oil in my 954. over the 8...
If you take the bolt to a bolt shop they can measure the size and pitch, or just buy a sump bolt from the honda shop. get a new sealing washer at the same time. If the honda ones are too expensive, try the bike breakers, they are a fairly standard size, but again take the old bolt.
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Whether it's an engine oil pan (called the 'sump'' in the UK) or a transmission oil pan the principle is the same on all vehicles.
1. Drain the oil
2. Remove the bolts holding the sump/pan in place:
The oil drain plug, though depending on your vehicle it may look different: New gasket held in place with sealant
Use a blunt screwdriver -if needed - and prise the oil pan free. remove all traces of the old gasket from the mating surfaces.
Use a smear of sealant to hold the new gasket in the correct position on the pan - this will hold it in place when you refit the pan.
Push the pan into position and put in a front bolt finger-tight. Then put in a rear bolt finger-tight.
Putting in the bolts finger-tight allows you to gently 'move' the pan if needed to put the bolts in one at a time.
When all bolts are in, tighten them with a wrench/socket. Then check them all again for tightness.
It isn't actually a big job .. more 'messy' because of the oil.
you can get the gasket for about $20. REmove the pan bolts and it should drop straight down. When you tighten back up make several rounds around the pan tightening bolts so they tighten evenly. DO NOT fully tighten each bolt before moving to the next bolt.
if you take itt in plan on paying about $150 to $200.
take belly pan off underneith then. you will see the oil pan undo all the bolts ,but first remember to drain the oil , oneces you have all the bolts out give it a tap with a rubber hammer just to loosen it take the old gasket off clean all the suface,s put the new gasket on and bolt back up and put new oil back in bike while you are doing this i would replace the oil filter as well that just srews off .
Pull the drain plug, change the oil filter, replace the drain plug.
Add oil until the dipstick reads full.
Start the engine and make sure the oil light goes out. Check for leaks around the oil filter with the car running.
Recheck the oil level, add as necessary.
Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!
ok not to hard to replace you need to go to auto store and buy a new one. it may or may not come with new gaskett they can tell you what size you need if it dosent come with a new one. also you will need to drain the oil before removing the old pan so make sure to buy new oil for that.. your basicly doing an oil change so you may as well get new oil filter too. then after you have everything... new pan, oil, oil filter, gaskett.. just get under take out oil plugg drain oil in catch can. remove the oil pan bolts you may have too tap the oil pan in different directions to get it to drop off. clean away old gaskett if you need to, and replace new gaskett and oil pan, lay new gaskett ontop of new oil pan and hold in place to get a couple bolts started then start and tighten all bolts useing a cross bolt tightining pattern to make sure the pan is in place{ tighten one bolt then do opposit bolt} change oil filter, and refill with oil.. if you need to see this done youtube is an excillent place to find videos on this.. i hope this helps... remember to let the car cool before doing this so get everything you need and start the next day before you drive.. nothing worse that getting hot oil down you arm while your laying on the ground...
You need to remove the oil pressure sender by the oil filter and put a manual gauge in to see what your oil pressure actually is. The oil pump is fairly easy to replace, just drain out the oil and remove the starter. You can get to the oil pan bolts and then lower the pan. The oil pump is held onto the rear main bearing cap by one bolt. Remove it and lower it keeping in mind that the oil pump drive shaft will come out with it. Make sure the shaft hasn't rounded off, if its worn, replace it.
You didn't list your engine size so please pick the approriate task:
2.0L Engine
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise the vehicle and support safely with jackstands.
Drain the crankcase of oil.
Remove the attaching bolts securing the oil pan to the engine.
Clean the oil and gasket mating surface completely, and allow to dry.
To install:
Apply a 1/8 in. (3.18mm) bead of silicone sealer D6AZ-19562-B or equivalent between the oil pan and engine crankcase.
Install the oil pan using the attaching bolts. Torque bolt to 5-7 ft. lbs. (7-10 Nm).
Lower vehicle, and fill crankcase with correct amount of engine oil.
Start engine and check for leaks.
2.3L Engine
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise the vehicle and support safely with jackstands.
Drain the crankcase of oil, and drain the cooling system by removing the lower radiator hose.
When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze, and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
Remove the roll restrictor if equipped with a manual transaxle.
Disconnect the starter cable.
Remove the starter from the vehicle
Unfasten the bolts securing the rear oil pan to the transaxle case.
If equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the secondary air injection tube at the check valve.
Remove the heater supply tube located at the lower water pump inlet tube assembly.
Loosen the bolts and remove the brackets at the block and water pump inlet tube and A/C compressor line at the pan.
Using a prybar between the engine and body of car, flex engine enough the remove oil pan.
Clean the oil and gasket mating surface completely, and allow to dry.
Clean both mating surfaces of oil pan and cylinder block making certain all traces of RTV sealant are removed. Ensure that the block rails, front cover and rear cover retainer are also clean.
Remove and clean oil pump pick-up tube and screen assembly. After cleaning, install tube and screen assembly.
To install:
Apply a bead of RTV E8AZ-19562-A sealer or equivalent, in the oil pan groove. Completely fill oil pan groove with sealer. Sealer bead should be 0.200 in. (5mm) wide and 0.080-0.150 in. (2.0-3.8mm) high (above oil pan surface) in all areas except the half-rounds. The half-rounds should have a bead 0.200 in. (5mm) wide and 0.150-0.200 in. (3.8-5.1mm) high, above the oil pan surface.
Applying RTV in excess of the specified amount will not improve the sealing of the oil pan, and could cause the oil pickup screen to become clogged with sealer. Use ad equate ventilation when applying sealer.
Install oil pan to cylinder block within 5 minutes to prevent skinning over. RTV needs to cure completely before coming in contact with any engine oil. Ideally, about 1 hour at ambient temperature between 65-75°F (18-24°C) is recommended as a drying time.
Install oil pan bolts lightly until the 2 oil pan-to-transmission bolts can be installed.
Install 2 oil pan-to-transaxle bolts. Tighten to 30-39 ft. lbs. (40-54 Nm) to align oil pan with transaxle. Loosen bolts 1/2 turn.
Tighten all oil pan flange bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
Tighten 2 oil pan-to-transmission bolts to 30-39 ft. lbs. (40-54 Nm).
Install brackets for A/C compressor line and water pump inlet tube.
If equipped with a manual transaxle, fasten the air injection tube.
take long bolts out that run thru motor mounts ,jack in front of motor all bolts in oil pan out, remove oil pan and then remove oil pump, replace new pump ,torque to specs, replace oil place with new pan gasket , bolts back thru mounts and ready to go, hope to help, thanks robert b.
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