How do you get to the fly wheel to check magnet. I removed the pully but their is a screen over the fly wheel, how do you remove the screen?

Just a thought your valves may need adjustment.

Easy way to set that is to put a piece of electrical tape over the magnet on the fly wheel and rotate the fly wheel till it is under the magneto and then loosen the magneto bolts till you can slide the magneto up against the tape, Tighten the bolts, rotate the flywheel out of position and remove the tape. Rotate the fly wheel by hand to check for free clearance all the way around.

.012 or Easy way to set that is to put a piece of electrical tape over the magnet on the fly wheel and rotate the fly wheel till it is under the magneto and then loosen the magneto bolts till you can slide the magneto up against the tape, Tighten the bolts, rotate the flywheel out of position and remove the tape. Rotate the fly wheel by hand to check for free clearance all the way around.

Check coil pic up or the electrical pick up in the pull string housing. Remove that and u will see the fly wheel next to that is the electrical pick up .look at fly wheel make sure magnets are clean surface ,they are in the fly wheel itself.after that remove coil and clean surface that faces fly wheel. Using a match book cover place it between fly wheel and coil ,make sure it moves but not falls out snug ,tighten coil screws and remove match book cover. If it dose it again re place coil look for small engine shop in your area and the can help get u a new one .weak spark means coil,sparkplug

You Did Not Indicate If The RM Is A 2 Stroke. If So The Timing Is Not Adjustable. If Timing Is An Issue Check For A Sheered Fly Wheel Key. Use The Correct Puller Tool To Remove Fly Wheel. A Hammer Will De- Magnetize It Or Other Damage Will Occur. The Fly Wheel Is Expensive. A Sheered Key In The Crankshaft Is The Only Way The Factory Timing Can Change. If The Key Is OK. Check The Reeds. They Control Intake Timing Also Not Adjustable.

removw chop screen and blower housing unplug little wire under mag remove 2 screws and remove mag reverse prosess with new mag but pull mag away from fly wheel and snug screws center magnet on flywheel over legs of magneto place .010 feelre guage inbetween and loosen screws, hold mag against flywheel and tighten remove feeler guage reinstall kill wire on bottom of mag install blower housing and chop screen hope tis helps

there is a few ways of doing thes the easiest way being using locking pins
you bont have to go and buy a set of locking pins you can use 3 m8 (13mm headded) bolts and a 5mm allen key

there is a hole in the cam pully and 2 holes in the injection pump pully and 1 in the fly wheel

i suggest you lock the fly wheel up first
the hole is located under the starter motor on the front of the block
insert the 5mm allen key and get someone to turn the crank pully clockwise until allen key engages into the fly wheel

the hole in the cam should be at about 25 past
(if it is at 10 to then you neet to remove the pin from the fly wheel and turn the crank 1 full turn)

when the hole is inthe right place you can insert a m8 bolt and wind it in to the head

with this now lined up you should be able to fit the other 2 m8 bolts into the injector pump pully

with this now done your 1.9 tdi engine is timed up

te fly wheel is rusted over the magnets remove cover and sand the wheel at the magnets space should be about busnes card thick between the coil and magnets

hi mate
if you look on the front of the engine under the starter there is a small hole, (you can use a 5mm allan key in this hole to lock the crank) place allan key in the hole and hold it against the fly wheel while you turn the engine over in a clockwise direction by hand when the pin drops in you need to check that the hole in the cam shaft lines up with the hole in the head (should be about 4 o clock on the pully) and the 2 holes on the injection pump pully line up with the holes in the injection pump. (if these dont line up you will need to remove the allan key and turn the engine clockwise 90 degrees)
once all the the holes are lined up and the allak key is inserted into the flywheel, insert 3 m8 (13mm headed) bolts in to the hole on the cam pully and the 2 on injection pully. with all thes done your engine will be timed up and wont slip when refitting new belt.

The crank shaft pully will need removal and the water pump pully as well, also the 2 inspection covers and the center housing cover that they conect with, when removed all of the timing belts will be exposed as well as crank shaft end. I used a screw driver angled wedged and held in on the teeth of the fly-wheel to lock it in position so I could remove the crank shaft pully bolt, (standard lefty-loosey threaded). This would have been easier with the fly-wheel locking tool from subaru, or even just a budy to hold the fly-wheel while i turned the bolt loose at the crank pully. I unbolted the fan and slid it out of the way, I did not even need to unplug it. just be sure battery is not conected. The oil dip-stick tube has one 12 mm bolt at the end of a brace at top of engine. loosen and pull up and forward to remove. the crank shaft bolt-you will need to put back in the bolt only! on the end of the crank shaft so you can rotate the engine manualy with a socket on the crank shaft pully nut, while looking through the hole on the top of rear engine area just above fly wheel. wach fly wheel as it turns, look for 3 lines side by side these are not the timing degree marks they are seperate from them, align them to the little arow on the houseing in front of the 3 little marks. be sure the e-brake is set, trany in nutral so engine can turn freely. inspect the cam shaft pullies, on the surface there are 4 evenly spaced holes, there is one tiny hole that lays between the other holes, this little hole that is the pully mark, it needs to be at the twelve oclock position, there is a small groove on the housing at the twelve oclock position as well. align the two with each other, the little hole with the little notch directly above. do the same for the other side cam pully, same way. loosen the idler pulies for each belt, 2 bolts, move it to its full retracted position, pushing on it with fngers against spring tention, titen one of the nuts so the pully stays retracted/pushed. remove old belts, being carefull not to move the place marks of either of the 2 cam shafts or the engine crank placement. put in the new belts check to see if belt has a direction of dravel and match with engine, mine it did not matter but was told that it may with other belt makers? i don't know about that? but thought it was worth the warning?
once belts are on be sure again that marks all mate with marks on all 3 points crank and fly-wheel, both cam shaft pullies with notchs, now release the tnsion on the idler pullies, and retighten where they fell. check again on the 3 timing points be sure they have not moved again... tireing but worth it. if the have moved off of any mark you must realign it by moveing the pully to the rite spot and putting the belt back on. one tooth off on the drivers side of engine cam can meen up to 16 degrees of timing lose either way of perfect. once aligned, put the center cover back over the crank shaft, bolt on. put on the oil dip stick, put on the water pump pully and crank shaft pully, put on belts. leave the fans out untill all is done, just be sure they are free of obstacles so if they come on later it does no harm to it, you, or anything else. leave off the inspection covers at each cam pully. be sure to un block the fly-wheel. re asemble engine and componants to the installed normal positions as best as posible. re conect battery, be sure all tools are clear, start engine, if it will not run smoothly re set the distributer for timing, if still runs bad, you may have one or both cams off by plus or minus 1-2 teeth one the belts. this was hell... you have to move one side one tooth and start the engine and time it again, if that was not it then you move one tooth in in the oposite direction from the oiginal spot, now 2 teeth the oposite way. if not better put back on the original tooth, and do the same to the other cam one step and start at a time untill you find it to work the best, it may even be off by 1 tooth on the rite and 1- tooth on the left. This was a nite-mare but i finaly found the rite placements.
take 2 aspirin, advil, etc. pre-medicate for the manditory headache. and best of luck..
if you are wondering if the valves and the pistons may have struck, forget it subaru made this 1.8l engine as a none contacting engine, this meens that they can never touch piston to valves even in a cam belt failure.