Top 20 1985 Moto Guzzi Le mans III Questions & Answers

That's difficult to determine because you are playing with the total lash present in the system right through to the clutch splines. If you could lock the driveshaft, you might be dealing with a quarter of an inch or less at the tire perimeter.

Has the bike been standing along time? if so its probably the pilot fuel tunnel in the carb blocked. replace the pilot jets and main jets and soak the the carbs in a good carb cleaner.

hi, changing the flasher relay for a 12volt 2x24 unit will overcome this, you should be able to pick one of these up aftermarket, however i would probably try find a original equiptment unit as they sseem to be better quality, something like a cb250n, or 125tdc would have the correct 1,paul

Try a Dyna ignition out of the States. Well made, reliable, easy to fit and should be supported should any problems arise (unlikely). A good habit is to keep a set of points ,set up on the backing plate, under the seat of any Moto Guzzi.

YES!

There's either a blockage inside the brake line or the master cylinder isn't working - or there is just too much air in the system to begin the bleeding process. Make sure you have drawn as much air from the system by applying vacuum to the bleeder valve on the caliper before expecting much to happen in terms of pressure.
For a basic check of the master cylinder, make sure it has brake fluid in the resivoir and disconnect the brake line from it, then carefully pump the brake lever (or pedal) to see if any pressure at all is being produced. If not, then overhaul or replace the master cylinder.

Sounds more like a vacuum leak, check any vacuum hoses for dry rot. Next, I would start by removing the carbs and pulling the fuel bowl checking for some rust or crud on the jets, ck for any small ports on the jets. A worn jet would let in more fuel and should not cause a shut down at wide open throttle.

Get a rebuild kit for your carbs. Make sure u clean the pilot jet line in the carbs, this is a favorite to get blocked make sure the floats are coming all the way down and releasing the valve letting the fuel into the carb.Oh and take off the pet cocks on the tank they have filteers that get blocked easy. Good luck

Hi and welcome to FixYa, Based on your description, possibilities are: 1 of the signal bulb pair has burned out; bulbs used are smaller or of lower wattage; LED type indicator lights are used. Replace flasher with electronic version. Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

but no there was definitely a loud whirring noise in 5th gear sort of like a very noisy bearing. The bike still ran in 5th but it was definately becomming increasingly noisy. When I changed down to 4th the noise went away even if I slowed to the rev range I had been cruising in 5th. Same story with the other gears, but the noise returned with a vengence in 5th. Needless to say I rode the rest of the way home in avoiding 5th. Any ideas? I suppose I'm looking at a gearbox strip? Could the noise be anything else? ,Had a similar issue with my 1000S, only 5th gear was noisy - a sound like a dry bearing -other gears were silent. Bike had done 70,000kms and serviced correctly. Had Barry from IME check it out. Turned out to be both 5th gears needed replacing - looked like the case hardening on the gear faces was eroding and pitting. New gears went in and the box properly shimmed and happy to say 6000 kms later all still silent in the gearbox department. Plus the added benefit of slicker gear changes.,,,

Check fuses and earths first. Does the fuel pump prime when you first turn on the ignition? If not check relays. ,

I am about to do it on the lemans 5. Just have to source the two lever setups for the PHMs.At the moment I dont have any choke setup on the bike.It doesnt need it realy.I just twist the throttle a few times when cranking in the cold weather and she always fires up no probs. I do want to fit the levers as the choke should be operational for winter time.

Have got electronic ignition? If not replace the springs in the distributor. Cahnge the fuel filters on the side of the carbs real easy job, they r just a screen that get blocked with old fuel.

try here?http://www.4shared.com/file/64834844/2a5990ae/workshop_manual_california_1000_1000-i_1100_1100-i_it-en.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vwnijg8bTxE

what is the original problem that makes you think it is cam shaft problem If the manufacturer used cheap cams (not likely as it affects the brand name) the engine is under warranty and the cams would be replaced by the company Find a different service center or contact the manufacturer direct to see if there is a recall out on the engine consider this --if it is a moto guzzi mechanic that was telling you this , then why was it not booked in for replacement parts under warranty I suspect that he was trying to get extra money out of you and was not qualified in the product

Bad connection or faulty starter. Check voltage/current to the starter when you press start - should be around 8/9 volts for a 12 volt system - if considerably higher suspect starter, if lower and little current flowing suspect poor connection somewhere. If the voltage is low and current high suspect starter.

Could be running way to lean and the fuel may have too much alcohol or water or the injectors may be clogged/restricted.

I don't know what vehicle/equipment you're referencing here. With that in mind, can you drill a hole or holes through the chassis just below the gas cap to allow water to escape?

oil leaks during use indicate a loose bearing adjustment allowing the oil to move past the seal lip when rotating I would be checking wheel bearing condition and adjustment, oil level in that section and wear groove for where the oil seal lip runs reasoning is , when the wheel is stationary the oil is not being splashed around and will settle in the lowest places when moving , if the seal housing is allowed to move separate to the axle position ( wobble , up down sideways etc) then small gaps appear between the seal lip and what it runs on and so oil is allowed to escape if it is a drive shaft to the rear wheel check the output shaft to the wheel for movement ( bad bearings , adjustment/ preload ) or anything that will not keep the shaft in the center of the seal