20 Most Recent 2004 kawasaki KLX 110 Questions & Answers

From sitting or from riding? If from sitting, pour some thin oil like ATF into spark plug hole, let sit for a day and try to push start it with plug out to loosen up... When loose, pull off head and clean up cylinder and put in fresh rings at the least...

Make sure you don't have a leak around manifold side of boot

Get new rings

There are two parts. One is the transmission that has to be in nuetral and the other is the clutch that disconnects the motor from the transmission.

Not sure by free wheels, does the motor turnover and seems to free wheel? If so, you may have very low compression in which the piston rings and or pistons may need to be changed, which is common if the bike is rode hard, the interval change is about 35 hours on these parts in most cases. If You kick the motor over and there is no tension on the kickstarter the spring may be bad.

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You can put the 2 stroke gas in if there's nothing else available and you're in a pinch but it will eventually foul the plug and create carbon in the combustion chamber if you do it regularly.

10w-40 is in the transmission. Two stroke motor oil is in the container under the side cover.

Remove and clean the carb. disassemble the carb then soak the carb parts in denatured alcohol for a couple hours then spraying with an aerosol carb cleaner should do the trick. Drain the gas tank and put in fresh gas. Go ahead and install an in-line fuel filter to lessen problems from a rusted gas tank.

You have a case of bent shift forks. Getting parts will be your first problem. Finding someone willing to work on it will be your second problem. The entire motor and gearbox must be torn down to get to the forks. The bike may run well and even look really nice, but it probably is not worth the time and cost of fixing it... Sorry.

If it's blue smoke, maybe an oil ring is broken. White smoke and water in the combustion chamber, black smoke carburation problems.

try Ebay

NO U JUST NEED NEW FUEL INLET NEEDLE VALVES

Generic advice for motorcycle contact breakers

I asume that you know where they are, generally behind the flywheel on a two stroke (mostly on left side of motor) a pain to get at. If you have an OverHeadCam 4 stroke (like the KLX 110) you will probably find the points behind a cover on the cylinder head working off the end of the camshaft as the Japanese realised a long time ago that this was a simple and cost efective way to make and service these items.
You will need to find the engine timing marks located on the flywheel
You will need feeler gauges and some basic tools
What to do.
Take out the spark plug
Take off the points cover
Take off the flywheel cover( oil may or may not leak out from this cover) if in doubt lean bike over away from you when you take it off to see if oil is inside casing.
Find timing marks. You should see i guess two marks. one will be "T" for Top Dead Center or T.D.C. (piston at top of bore) one will be "F" for fire (the point at which the spark happens) this will be Before Top Dead Centre B.T.D.C
There will be a mark on the engine casing( often just a line or dash, maybe a small triangle) to line these marks up with. If you cant find it get the piston to the top of the bore(put a pencil or similar down the plug hole to feel the piston coming up),Do this slowly and be sure not to get whatever you have down the plug hole caught up in the valves as they move. If you feel it snag take it out start again.
Get the piston to the top.
Now if you look at your "T" timing mark it should be close to whatever it;s supposed to line up with on the engine casing

First you need to set the gap of the points. Between .012 and .015 of an inch is right for most bikes. If you have the Kawasaki figure for this bike then use it.
In metric 12 to 15 thou would be .0.3 to 0.4 millimeters
(i think sorry i am old, and always use imperial mesurments for stuff like this)
Use a socket on the flywheel nut to rotate the engine in its normal direction. You will see the "T" mark pass the mark on the engine case, Followed by the "F" mark . At this point the points should be fully open.
You need to set the gap . The feeler gauge should be a light sliding fit. It is easy to set the gap to small not noticing that the feeler is pushing the points open.
If in doubt set the gap and tighten the points up. Get a smaller feeler and see that it is loose inside the points. You have to hold the feeler square and slide it in and out gently. Otherwise you will get a false reading.
Often you find that when you tighten the points up the gap will change. This is frustrating. Sometimes you have to allow for it by seting the gap to big or small by trial and error till you get the right gap after you finish tightening the points up.It's a pain to be honest.
I just set them by eye myself. But iv'e been doing them for years, i know what to look for.
Now you have your points set to the right gap you need them to open at the right time. This is when the "F" mark lines up with the timing mark on the engine case.
There are various methods for telling when the points open. This is much more critical on a 2 stroke where a small error can lead to a melted piston!
on a 4 stroke though, there is a much larger margin for error.
Remember the points only open once for every 2 revolutions of the engine.
The cigarete paper method
You need a cigarette paper, as thin as possible, Blue Rizlas are good for this.
Put the paper (or a small torn off bit of it) in between the points Holding the other end of the paper tug it gently . Turn the engine over as the points open the paper will slide out from between them.
This normally takes several attempts. When you are happy with the result then tighten up the points backplate. It may be possible to put the engine in the right place and move the points backplate clockwise and anticlockwise to get the points to open at the right place.
You always need to turn the engine over a couple of times and recheck as often things seem to change a little. Again it is trial and error.
The radio method
Works if your bike has a battery ignition system
Get a portable radio, set it to an empty space on FM turn it up. put it close to the points
Turn on your ignition
Turn over your engine. You should hear a distinct pop or crack from the radio as the points open.
The Multimeter Method
Ignition Off
Meter set to OHMS
Black lead to Earth on bike
Red lead to MOVING side of contact points.
When the points are closed you should get a reading of 0.00 or 0.01 on your meter as you turn the engine over and the points open the reading will go to 999.99 or infinity you get the idea. If you are new to this having an asistant may help as you seem to run out of hands to do things with till you are used to it!
Your points should now be set. They don't tend to stay in adjustment very long. As a i said earlier it's not so critical on a 4 stoke. I mean the closer the better . But as long a you have a close to correct gap at close to the right time you will be fine.
Hope this is enough to get you sorted. It's not easy working out how to write these things for people. It's a job iv'e done so many times on so many vehicles in my life. I just do it automatically. I thought i could knock this answer off in ten minuets. That was an hour or so ago!!

most likely cause is that the bolt that holds the shift star to the shift drum has come loose & the shift linkage is not making contact to actuate the shift drum...order a new clutch cover gasket before attempting any repair, remove clutch cover, remove clutch basket (special tools required) clean threads on shift star bolt & threads in shift drum, reassemble with a light film of blue loctite on the bolt.

Adjust the timing

The specs on what exactly? Doing a top end rebuild takes up about 40 pages in the manual. You can get the manual from Kawasaki, it is part number 99924-1283-03 S/M KLX110A, $59.95 and it's money well spend if you're doing your own mechanical work.

Hi there,

Check the below link there is some service manual for you -

http://www.cyclepedia.com/kawasaki-klx110-online-service-guide/

Post back to me if you need more information.

Good Luck!!

Thanks

Alright, here is the deal, these manuals are not provided free except to dealers. So here are your options, you can see if your local dealer would get you a free copy or let you borrow one. OR I have found the cheapest manual that you can get a subscription for (1 year subscription for under $25 I believe compared to paying $70+ for a manual), the subscription will give you instant online access to every spec, diagram, and everything else you need to put it back together. Just click on the following website link and let me know how this turns out.

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Benjamin