2006 1.8s. I have a problem removing the long bolt on the transmission filter of my 2006 Sentra. I replaced the filter but the bolt threads would not catch.I see someone else has the same problem. Any solutions?

remove 2 bolts on transmission holding the mount and 2 bolts on frame holding the mount. use a lever such as a 2x4 to take the weight off the mount. replace with a new mount

I've heard that if the transmission filter gets clogged it can keep cars from going in reverse. The filters are usually accessed by removing the pan at the bottom of the transmission. You should just replace the filter. In addition to the filter you will probably need a new gasket for the pan and new transmission fluid. Definitely a do it yourself project if you can lift the front end onto stands or drive up onto wheel ramps.

get a tool called an "easyout" this will include a drill dit and various size threaded cores that are screwed into the hole you've drilled into the plug/bolt etc , the trick is these cores have a left hand thread so turn anti-clockwise to screw in tight, as they are tapered , once tight unscrew clockwise and out comes the offending bolt/plug etc , these tools are available online and are very cheap considering the money they save you on this type of stuff

please remove the battery terminal for safety purpose,remove the female terminal of the starter,remove the number !2mm bolt on the starter then remove the two bolt upper portion lower portion number 14mm bolt then pullout the starter from the transmission housing

Drop the tranny pan...(loosen the bolts). Be prepared to allow the fluid to come out/drip out. Then remove bolts, drop the pan, wipe the pan out. Remove the old gasket. Remove old filter. Install new filter. Install new gasket. Install the pan and tighten the bolts to the specified ft/lbs. torque with a torque wrench.

Honestly, it's the transmission...bring it a shop and have an exchange done. Because you won't get all of the old fluid out, and you might as well do the whole service. Hope this is helpful.

are you saying will not thread back into the hole.If so,get a tap for the bolt size and retap the hole and reinstall with a new bolt.Take your time starting the bolt.

1. Set the parking brake and jack the CAR UP AND SET JACK STANDS UNDER IT
2. Remove the drain pan: Remove the bolts holding the drain pan to the bottom of the transmission. This might get a little messy, but it would be worse if you hadn't already removed most of the fluid.
3. Clean the drain pan: Use some transmission fluid and thoroughly clean the inside of the drain pan. Remove all metal shavings, sludge, and debris. Also clean all of the metal shavings from the magnets on the bottom of the pan.
4. Replace and the filter: Remove the filter and replace with a new filter. Don't waste time trying to clean a filter to reuse it; always replace the filter when you change the transmission fluid. Make sure that the O-rings on the new filter are seated properly.
5. Replace the gasket: It's usually best to replace the gasket sealing the drain pan. You may be able to improve the seal by using black RTV adhesive.
6. Install the pan: Once the filter and gasket are in place, put the pan back onto the transmission. Hand-thread the bolts for the first few turns so that you won't strip the threading. Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the appropriate tightness. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the bolts. This can damage the threads in the transmission and dent the pan.
   
7. Fill with automatic transmission fluid: Check your owner's manual to determine the correct type and amount of fluid to use in your car. This is usually Dextron III type fluid, but check your owner's manual just in case your car requires a different type. Check the fluid level using the dipstick with the engine running and the transmission in park. Be careful that you do not add too much fluid.

I am going to answer this assuming that we are talking about a 2 wheel drive 1995 Chevy S-10, and not the 1991 Sentra your question is listed under. First disconnect the ground lead on the battery, then remove the shifter boot and the shift leverfrom the topside. Then remove the drive shaft by taking the u-bolts off the differential end of the shaft. Put an oil drain pan under the transmission tailshaft, slide the shaft out of the transmission, then unscrew the speedometer cable from the tailpiece of the transmission. Place a jack under the transmission and remove all of the mounting bolts. Remove the bolts holding the transmission bell housing to the engine and remove the starter. Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder, and with the help of a friend slide the transmission out of the clutch and flywheel. You may have to give it a slight turn to dislodge it from the engine. As the manuals usually say, reinstallation is the reverse of the removal. While you have the transmission out, check the condition of your flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing. Replace or resurface if needed. If the slave cylinder shows any sign of oil leaks, rebuild or replace while you have a chance. If you found this helpful, please don't forget to rate it.

Unfortunately GM didn't put a drain plug in the transmission pans. You'll need a transmission service kit which will have the filter and new pan gasket. Put a large catch can under the pan, loosen all the bolts and crack the pan loose from the transmission and allow the fluid to leak out. Next remove all but two bolts letting the fluid drain as you go. With one hand on the bottom of the pan supporting it remove the last two bolts. Lower the pan down and drain the rest of the fluid out. The rest is pretty simple and hopefully less messy. Wiggle the transmission filter out, remove the grommet and replace it with the one supplied in the kit. Clean the pan, especially the magnet of metal shavings. Clean the gasket surfaces. Place the new gasket on the pan and thread a bolt in each corner into the gasket. Bolt the pan up and refill with transmission fluid.

I changed the starter in my 1996 Nissan Sentra, and I assume the 1997 Sentra is very similar to mine. It's a VERY nasty job. Basic steps are: 1) put car on lift or on ramps (so you can get underneath) 2) remove cable connections to battery 3) remove oil filter (yes, that's right. The filter needs to be removed to provide proper clearance for your hands, tools, and starter itself. Yuck!) 4) remove the bolt on the lower portion of the support strut for the intact manifold, so the support strut can be gently moved slightly to the side to provide clearance 5) remove the electrical connections to the starter 6) remove the 2 bolts holding the starter to the engine. One is accessible from below, and the other one (believe it or not) is accessible from the top. Installation of course is the reverse of the above. It's a genuine pain to change the starter. But, on the positive side, it beats having to pay the dealer or a mechanic.

There are a few tips/under line a few points, after just having done it. You need a long group of extensions. Just undo both battery cables to minimize risk. Undo where the negative battery cable attaches to the engine. There is a bolt next to this that you can undo too. Either this bolt or the battery cable bolt holds the starter. (you'll see on the starter housing one bolt hole is trhough, one is threaded.)
Remove the oil filter. Remove the plastic shroud near the right tire. Remove the strut (or at least the lowest bolt so you can turn it) that will make it impossible to get a socket or remove the starter itself. Unscrew the bolt for the power cable to the starter assembly before removing the starter. Now use your long, long extension to hold the ratcher near the right wheel and tunnel through that mess to get the underneath 14mm bolt. Wiggling out the starter assembly is like getting the oil filter out, a bit crowded.