Hi My Davey bore pump is leaking from the bottom of then casing even after I changed the O Ring seal, any suggestions?

My Davey hs pump is leaking from around the bottom Allen key screws holding the housing AmanStino 3 USB ports Car charger with 1 Type port AmanStino

Where is it leaking? Cooler lines or fittings, bottom pan, differential cover, transfer gear cover, axle seals, carrier bearing housings, convertor seal, pump o-ring, or is there a hole in the case from the differential coming apart?

If you haven't had the timing belt replace (60,000 miles is the suggested service intervale) this is an overlap of having the timing belt replaced.
If the timing belt is not due for replacement and its the cam shaft seal that is leaking. Its a pretty easy fix. Remove the top timing belt cover , and the crankshaft sensor wiring you may have to remove the front engine mount . Set #1 piston at TDC, Loosen tensioner w/ spring slip off belt. **Remove sprocket pull out old seal with a sharp pick. Greese and install new seal make sure its flush with its bore . Reistall sprocket. Slide belt over Cam sprocket tighten tensioner. Install cover and mount (if applicable) Check timing marks by turning crank two revolutions.
** If CamSprocket Bolt is difficult to remove then remove valve cover and use a 21mm wrench to hold the Camshaft while you crack off Cam Sprocket Bolt.
You will see the groves on the Camshaft where you can place a wrench to hold the shaft.
After you replaced the seal replace the valve cover gasket ONLY IF YOU HAD TO REMOVE THE COVER TO HOLD THE CAM WHILE REMOVING ITS BOLT.

This is about as major as it gets.

Ford Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis 1989-1998

Electric Fuel Pump - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

CAUTION Fuel injection systems remain under pressure, even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.

1. If equipped with air suspension, the air suspension switch, located on the right-hand side of the luggage compartment, must be turned to the OFF position before raising the vehicle.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Relieve fuel system pressure using the recommended procedure.
4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
5. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle and place on a suitable work bench.
6. Remove any dirt that has accumulated around the fuel pump retaining flange so it will not enter the tank during pump removal and installation.
7. On 1989-94 models, turn the fuel pump locking ring counterclockwise and remove the locking ring.
8. On 1995-98 models, remove 6 retaining bolts around the perimeter of the fuel pump module.
9. Remove the fuel pump/sending unit assembly. Remove and discard the seal ring.
   

To install:

1. Clean the fuel pump mounting flange, fuel tank mounting surface and seal ring groove.
2. Apply a light coating of grease on a new seal ring to hold it in place during assembly and install in the seal ring groove.
3. Install the fuel pump/sending unit assembly carefully to ensure the filter is not damaged. Make sure the locating keys are in the keyways and the seal ring remains in the groove.
4. Hold the pump assembly in place and install the locking ring finger-tight. Make sure all the locking tabs are under the tank lock ring tabs.
5. Rotate the locking ring clockwise until the ring is against the stops.
6. Install the fuel tank into the vehicle.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. If equipped with air suspension, turn the air suspension switch to the ON position.
9. Add a minimum of 10 gallons of fuel to the tank and check for leaks.
10. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
11. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position several times to pressurize the fuel system. Check for fuel leaks and correct as necessary.
12. Start the engine and check for leaks.
13. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.
    

See Figures 1, 2 and 3




Fig. 1: The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank. On some models it can be viewed from the side as shown here



Fig. 2: Electric fuel pump removal



Fig. 3: Fuel pump locking ring installation


Hope this hel to solve your problem (remembercomment and rated this).

Replace them.

You will need to diagnose exactly which seals are leaking.

Replacing the front main seal requires removal of the cam timing components, including the timing belt and lower timing cog. The front main engine seal is installed in the oil pump, and can be removed with a pick. The new seal should be installed with care, using ether a seal installer tool or a socket/pipe of size equal to the metal ring in the seal, using a gentle tapping with a small hammer or board to ensure that you don't damage the seal. You must also ensure that the seal is seated fully in the bore. Ensure that you install the seal in the correct orientation.

If the rear main seal needs to be replaced, you will need to remove the engine or transmission from the vehicle to access it.

If it isn't leaking from the Input seal, (The seal where the torque converter shaft goes into), then I suggest it's leaking from the Front Pump seal. Torque converter removed, look at the large round object, that has bolts going around it, and a shaft coming out the middle. The Input seal is in the middle. The large round object is the Front Pump. There is a large rubber O-ring that goes around the Front Pump. This O-ring can deteriorate, and leak. It can also blow out partially, due to inner damage of a spring clutch.

One thing I would like to advise you on. The Inner seal installation.

You should use the proper tool to remove it. You should use a seal puller. Also, when using a seal puller, the seal puller head can dig into the Front Pump cast iron case.
This can create a gouge, in the recess where the outside of the seal sits. This will create an area to leak.
Use caution when removing an Inner seal, and only have the seal puller head just far enough in, that it catches about half, of the inner seal -> metal outer ring. Past the rubber part of the seal, past the spring, and onto the metal outer ring of the seal itself. But, not far enough that the seal puller head will touch the Front Pump case recess.

If you did gouge the recess of the Front Pump case, clean the area with a clean shop rag. Use a half round file, and carefully remove the burr that the gouge creates. When a gouge is created, it upsets the metal. The gouge makes a 'valley', and a burr is created on the top edges of this 'valley'. That burr needs to be filed down to the rounded recess surface. Follow up with sandpaper. Wipe it out with a clean shop rag. Wrap a clean shop rag around the shaft, so that no metal fillings can get inside the Front Pump, and blow that recess out with air. Wipe the recess area again, with a clean shop rag.

To install an Inner seal, lightly coat the outside metal ring of the seal, with silicone. I use high temp Red. Failure to do this may cause a leak. Do this if you have a gouge or not. If you have a gouge, put a little extra silicone in that gouge, and fill it up. Don't use too much, but make sure the gouge is filled.

Either use a seal installation tool, or fabricate one out of Schedule 80 pipe, and have one end milled flat, and the corners rounded a little. The pipe must be large enough to fit against the flat outer lip of the seal.
Put the seal in place. Push on it, try to keep it flat and even. Put the seal installation tool on the seal. Tap on one side of the installation tool, then tap on the other, until you get a good start. Good start being the seal starts to go in, and is even all the way around. Then take you hammer, and tap around the outside edge of the installation tool. Go around and around. Watch how the seal is going in. If it starts to tilt off to one side, stop. Remove the seal. Start over. It must go in even all the way around, as it's being installed.

Failure to keep it even as it's installed, will twist the seal, and the seal's spring will pop out. Now you have a twisted seal, and no spring. The seal is junk!

BE SURE, to apply a thin light coat of transmission fluid, to the inner part of the seal. The area where the torque converter shaft will spin in. FAILURE to do this, might cause the torque converter shaft to twist, the inner rubber part of the seal, and twist the seal in half. The seal is then junk!

remember you are messing with gas.so no fire,sparks and smoking allowed around car.dissconnect neg. on battery.then relieve fuel pressure by taking off gas cap.take all gas out of tank.undo fuel neck,both straps,hoses and any electrical conectors.take take out from under car.remove any dirt or debri from around fuel pump.there is a locking ring that needs to turn counterclockwise.remove fuel pump and bracket assembly.discard seal.clean pump flange,surface and seal ring groove.apply a light coat of grease to seal to hold in place during install.put seal in ring groove.install fuel pump and bracket carfully to ensure filter dont get damaged.make sure the locating keys are in keyways and seal stays in groove.hold pump in place and install locking ring finger-tight.make sure locking tabs are under the tank lock ring tabs.rotate lock ring clockwise intill it stops fully.put tank back in car.make sure all connections and lines are tight.put only 10gals in tank and check for leaks.put a fuel pressure gauge on the valve on the fuel rail.turn ignition on,but dont start.turn ignition on for 3 seconds then back to off.repeat this 5-10 times or until pressure is at 35psi.if you dont get 35psi or it drops back down check for leaks.if it stays at 35psi then remove fuel pressure gauge and start car.while running check for leaks.this is directly from ford motor co.verbatom.good luck.

Hi Briseno,

Solenoid pack leaking,
Cooler Lines to Radiator leaking,
Timing cover leaking,
They suggest changing the water pump at the same time as the lower rad hose, timing chain, and valve cover gaskets. This is because it either looks like the water pump will die soon, preventative measures, or the shop is trying to rip you off for an hours labor.

Either way, I would suggest taking it to a mechanic, unless you're a bit of a handy man.

Hope I've helped, don't forget to rate.

Lazaruselite

while the seals in the calipers are replaceable, its probably easier just to get a new/re manufactured caliper. if for any reason the seals don't work perfectly you could lose control of the vehicle when attempting to stop. with that said i'll try to explain the best i can how to replace the seals in the calipers for that vehicle.

1. jack up the front of the vehicle, place on jackstands and remove the front wheels, make sure the parking brake is on
2. unbolt the caliper and unbolt the brake line from the caliper and take caliper to a clean bench
3. remove the dust boot retaining ring on the caliper that holds the boot to the caliper itself
4. using a blowgun with a rubber tip apply low pressure compressed air where the brake line was bolted to the caliper to push the piston out of the bore (be carefull and ready because the piston may shoot out with some force)
5. when the piston comes out you will need to replace the dust boot and the seal so remove the boot and seal carefully so you don't scratch the piston ( the seal is actually in the caliper piston bore hole)and throw out the old seal and boot.
6. inspect all the surfaces and make sure there are no imperfections at all on the piston, the piston bore, or the caliper, if the surfaces are marred in anyway, replace the caliper, if they are good, using brake cleen and compressed air clean all parts then dry them
7. get the new seal and lubricate with DOT 3 brake fluid
8. install new seal into the caliper bore
9. apply a thin coat of DOT 3 brake fluid to the piston itself
10. install bottom half the the caliper piston into the caliper bore.
11. install new dust boot seal onto the piston
12. compress the piston to the bottom of the caliper bore
13. fully seat the dust boot seal into the caliper and install retaining ring
14. reinstall on vehicle (make sure to use a NEW copper washer on the brake line to caliper fitting) and bleed the braking system while checking for leaks.

repeat process for the other side.

if the caliper leaks at all from the piston after seal replacement, replace the caliper.

make sure you properly bleed the brakes before attempting to drive your car.

*these direction were extracted from personal experience and manufacturer information*

any other questions just ask!

It has to be either burning it or you have a leak. If you changed the oil and overfilled it a gasket may have blown. try pouring a can of engine stop leak. Maybe it will help.