Brake bleeding Procedure
1. First, you have to depress pin location (see Image)
Keep this pin block so it will not pop out during the bleeding otherwise air will stay trap inside the system.
2. Start bleeding the Brake cylinder that is the farthest from the Brake master cylinder. Do the 4 wheels in the same matter.
Hope it helps.
SOURCE: set timing 1997 jimmy
Ok that's pretty simple Put cylinder # 1 on TDC= top dead center on the (compressionstroke piston all the way up). Mark on metal part of distributor (with marker) where the number one is on the cap( that's where the number 1 wire plugs in) Then in-plant distributor make sure that rotor point is pointed to #1 on the cap, turn distributor shaft until this is achieved or as close as possible try to center shaft so you can adjust... ****** or advance to fine tune after you in-plant distributor if needed. Contact if you need more help . Good Luck
SOURCE: 95 GMC Jimmy brakes are tight
The hard brake pedal is most likely a faulty power brake booster. Unless you suspect a faulty master cylinder, buy one with out it. In fact, if you suspect any other problems which might require opening the brake system (the booster does not) take it to a mechanic for repair.
The brake booster will require removal of four bolts on the fire wall (from the inside of the truck) and the removal of the master cylinder (do not remove the brake lines, simply unbolt it from its mooring). You will also have to muck about with the connecter for the pedal rod. If you feel at all unsure about doing that job, have a mechanic do it.
Good luck and hope this helps.
SOURCE: no brake pressure
should not need to bleed module try giving the proportion valve afew good smacks sometimes this will dislodge the valve then rebleed
SOURCE: 1997 GMC Jimmy: power windows, power locks, and
Check the wires that go to your wheels for the ABS. They are probably bare from stones hitting them, and shorting out the system.
SOURCE: Brake pedal still goes to floor 2000 GMC Jimmy
It's very possible to be the master cylinder, the o-rings on the piston could be worn, letting the fluid seep back through instead of getting full pressure through the lines. Could also be the brake booster.
Try changing the master cylinder first, which is cheaper and easier, and see if there is a difference, you'll need to bleed the brakes again.
To check the booster,
With the engine off, pump the brakes until the pedal is hard, then hold pressure on the brake pedal and listen for air escaping, or the pedal goes slowly to the floor, Do that after the master cylinder has been changed, at least that will be eliminated.
Testimonial: "Hadn't thought about the O-rings on the rod thanks for the idea. Great Idea Thanks!"
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