Symptoms of oil pump failure

No oil or oil pressure , also check all belt driven components like alternator or a/c compressor or power steering pump and water pump one of listed items could seize and cause your engine not to turn over aka crank , not much info given on make and model of vehicle

drop the sump thats all ,you do not need to remove the head just for that .why do you need to drop the oil pump ,i have one of these engines in my ford escort and their near on bullet proof .providing you change the oil regular you should never get a problem .

The upper intake plenum is leaking coolant into the cylinder heads. The head gaskets on this motor are awesome. So, chances are it's the upper intake plenum. You can check this, by removing the vacuum hose that runs between the upper plenum and the brake booster. Stick your finger in and try to touch the top of the lower intake manifold. If your finger is wet it the upper plenum. You might as well replace the lower intake gasket while you're performing this work because they are prone to failure also. Use a shop vac to pull any coolant out of the cylinder heads. Get brand new spark plugs because the old ones are probably fouled. Once you get the plenum and gaskets replaced, remove your fuel pump relay and leave the spark plugs out and turn the engine over repeatedly for about 10 seconds to push any excess coolant out of the cylinder heads. Then, put the spark plugs in and turn the engine over for 10 seconds again. This will burn excess fuel as coolant out. Then, replace the fuel pump relay to allow fuel to be pumped into the heads. Car will smoke for a few when it fires up, but will clear out quickly. CHANGE THE OIL! Twice within a week if possible.

The water in the oil means there is a blown head gasket or a cracked head (from overheating). Unfortunately this is a major repair. I would not drive it as you could cause further damage. Take the car to a mechanic that you trust or one that a friend recommends.

Cylinder Head Removal & Installation 5.7L Engine To Remove:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the engine coolant.
3. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
4. Remove the upper radiator hose.
5. Remove both heater hoses.
6. Disconnect spark plug wires at distributor cap.
7. Remove distributor cap.
8. Remove the coolant bypass hose from the water pump.
9. Remove the drive belt. NOTE: It is not necessary to evacuate the A/C refrigerant.
   
10. Remove the A/C compressor from the mounting bracket and set it aside.
11. Remove the wiring bracket from the rear of the cylinder head.
12. Disconnect the accessory bracket and slide forward.
13. Remove the upper and lower intake manifold.
14. Remove the exhaust manifolds.
15. Remove the valve rocker arms and pushrods.
16. Remove the power steering pump pulley.
17. Disconnect the electrical connector from the power steering pump.
18. Remove nuts attaching the power steering pump to the engine.
19. Remove power steering pump mounting bracket bolts and nut.
20. Slide power steering pump/bracket assembly forward and remove stud.
21. Set power steering pump/bracket assembly aside.
22. Disconnect the wiring bracket from rear of the right cylinder head.
23. Remove the generator.
24. Remove the oil indicator tube bracket bolt.
25. Remove the generator mounting bracket.
26. Remove the sixteen cylinder head bolts.
27. Remove cylinder heads and gaskets.
28. Clean all sealing surfaces.

To Install:
Right Side NOTE: Clean all dirt, debris, and coolant from the engine block cylinder head bolt holes. Failure to remove all foreign material may result in damaged threads, improperly tightened fasteners or damage to components.
NOTE: Do not use any type of sealant on the cylinder head gasket (unless specified).

1. Clean the cylinder head bolt holes with a thread chaser and compressed air.
2. Check the cylinder head locating pins for proper installation.
3. Place a new cylinder head gasket over the engine block dowel pins.
4. Install the cylinder head to the engine block.
5. Apply sealant (GM P/N 12346004 or equivalent) to cylinder head bolt threads.
6. Install the cylinder head bolts.
   
   
7. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence on the first pass.
   • Torque to: 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
8. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the long bolts (1, 2, 5, 6, 9, 10 and 13) on the second pass in sequence to 75°.
9. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the medium bolts (14 and 17) on the second pass in sequence to 65°.
10. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the short bolts (3, 4, 7, 8, 11, 12, 15 and 16) on the second pass in sequence to 55°.
11. Install the valve rocker arms and pushrods.
12. Install the generator mounting bracket stud.
    • Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
13. Loosely assemble the generator mounting bracket over the stud.
14. Install all nuts and bolts finger tight.
    • Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
15. Install the generator.
16. Install the oil indicator tube bracket bolt.
17. Install the exhaust manifold.
18. Install the lower intake manifold.
19. Install the valve rocker arm covers.
20. Install the wiring bracket to the rear of the cylinder head.
21. Connect the accessory bracket.
22. Install the A/C compressor.
23. Install the drive belt.
24. Install the distributor cap.
25. Connect the spark plug wires to the distributor cap.
26. Install both heater hoses.
27. Install the upper radiator hose.
28. Install the air cleaner assembly.
29. Refill the engine coolant.
30. Connect the negative battery cable.

Left Side To Install:
NOTE: Clean all dirt, debris, and coolant from the engine block cylinder head bolt holes. Failure to remove all foreign material may result in damaged threads, improperly tightened fasteners or damage to components.
NOTE: Do not use any type of sealant on the cylinder head gasket (unless specified).
NOTE: Clean all dirt, debris, and coolant from the engine block cylinder head bolt holes. Failure to remove all foreign material may result in damaged threads, improperly tightened fasteners or damage to components.
NOTE: Do not use any type of sealant on the cylinder head gasket (unless specified).

1. Clean the cylinder head bolt holes with a thread chaser and compressed air.
2. Check the cylinder head locating pins for proper installation.
3. Place a new cylinder head gasket over the engine block dowel pins.
4. Install the cylinder head to the engine block.
5. Apply sealant (GM P/N 12346004 or equivalent) to cylinder head bolt threads.
6. Install the cylinder head bolts.
   
   
7. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence on the first pass.
   • Torque to: 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
8. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the long bolts (1, 2, 5, 6, 9, 10 and 13) on the second pass in sequence to 75°.
9. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the medium bolts (14 and 17) on the second pass in sequence to 65°.
10. Using a torque angle meter, tighten the short bolts (3, 4, 7, 8, 11, 12, 15 and 16) on the second pass in sequence to 55°.
11. Install the valve rocker arms and pushrods.
12. Install the power steering pump mounting bracket stud.
    • Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
13. Loosely assemble the mounting bracket over the stud.
14. Install all nuts and bolts finger tight.
    • Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
15. Install the power steering pump pulley.
16. Connect the electrical connector to the power steering pump.
17. Install the exhaust manifold.
18. Install the lower intake manifold.
19. Install the valve rocker arm covers.
20. Install the wiring bracket to the rear of the cylinder head.
21. Connect the accessory bracket.
22. Install the A/C compressor.
23. Install the drive belt.
24. Install the distributor cap.
25. Connect the spark plug wires to the distributor cap.
26. Install both heater hoses.
27. Install the upper radiator hose.
28. Install the air cleaner assembly.
29. Refill the engine coolant.
30. Connect the negative battery cable.

Did you have changed a cylinder head gasket? Possible turn around. If not need to change oil pump.It is easy.Just remove the sump but before that drain the oil because........Get new sump gasket.What about oil pressure lamp?Coming ON? If the engine runing and the lamp is ON change oil pump.

Hello, and welcome to FixYa. Please allow me to assist you.

More often than not, head gasket failures will result in an immediate overheat condition, and you will see billowing clouds of white smoke coming from the tailpipe.

To answer your question, the time to replace both head gaskets is about 10-12 hrs, at your local labour rate. My service department would charge 900 dollars labour. Then, figure about an additional 3-400 dollars in a gasket set, oil, filter, coolant and any machine-shop work that would be needed to true the cylinder head mating surfaces.

Before you do any of that...

Personally, I would suggest that you inspect the water pump on your vehicle. This is where you are most likely going to find you leak. 4Runner V-6s are known for the impeller shaft seal on the water pump to leak. To see/inspect the water pump, you will have to remove all of the plastic covers that are fitted to the front of the engine. Once they are all removed, you will see the water pump in the center of the cylinder block. If you see any evidence of pink or white crusty materials on or under the pump, you have found your problem...and, it is MUCH cheaper to change the pump, as opposed to doing the head gaskets.

I hope this helps you out.

Thanks for choosing FixYa for assistance today.

Did you change the thermostat ?

One problem you might have (I think there are several, perhaps not related) is that the overheating is being caused by a failed head gasket.
When they fail, there are symptoms you can check for:

- Oil discolored, possibly looking more like hand lotion instead of oil.
- Oil in the coolant; it should not have any traces of oil in it which will also cause discoloration.
- Excessive and obviously wet (=new) oil or water deposits around the union of cylinder head (it is under the valve cover) and the block (the major portion of the engine below the head.)
- Rusty spark plugs - this may occur in only one instance or could show up on several, depending on the severity of the gasket failure.

The ABS light is a warning that youir braking performance is vastly reduced and wheel lockup can occur.
The old habit of 'pumping' the brakes on slick surfaces is needed until the problem is solved to avoid lockup and loss of control.

I'm sorry I cannot offer help on the other problems but the overheating needs to be attended to since this can lead to further severe damage.