Changed coil ignition module cap and rotor a week ago, now doing same thing again, it'll turn over all day long has fire but won't start like it has no fire.

Had an 84 silverado 305 that did the same thing. Try giving it a full tune up. Plugs, wires... Mine turned out to be fouled plugs. I didn't find that out till after i tore it down & put a timing set in it. Wasn't getting good enough spark.

1. The ignition system on your 5.0L uses a distributor type system and will include the following components:
   1. Ignition control module (ICM). Depending on the year of your specific Ford, it'll have a inner-fender mounted ignition control module or a distributor mounted ignition control module. hot sure which you have.
   2. Ignition coil. you replaced it.
   3. PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor. This is Ford's name for the crank sensor and is mounted inside the distributor. The most common name for this component is the pick up coil.
   4. Distributor cap and rotor. you replaced
   5. Spark plug wires. you replaced.
2. The thing to keep in mind about the ignition system is that all engine cylinders must get spark and the one thing that will stop the ignition system from creating spark on a wholesale scale is a BAD crank sensor.Have you pulled a plug then using some insulated pliers grounded it to the vehicle and turned it over to see if you have spark, that'll tell you alot.takes two people of course.Best of luck and hope this helps.

bet on the module,if it's tfi it's on the side of the dist.85 could be either way,may be the older fender mounted module.
If it's dist. mounted Ford recomends replacing the pick up coil also. There is a wire with a plug on the tfi's ,you remove the "cap" to set the timing,just 2 wires with a gray cap on the end.Maybe that's the wire you mentioned.

bad ingnition coil

Sounds like you changed the part that failed but did'nt change the part the caused the part to fail. the spark plgs wear out and need more power to fire as they wear out as do the old plug wires 87 is a long time ago and some are still running with the orginal parts (their that good) change all the parts at once ( plugs , wires , cap and rotor aand now again another coil) and you'll be back to going. remanber that low voltage will kill everythig and some starters will crank when the voltage is too low for anything else. fuel pump and the spark need good voltage to run and the starter may still turn the motor at very low voltages. check the battery and the charging system. You may try to just jumper to another car ( so the voltage is known good) and if it runs OK you are finding and testing battery and charging system parts.

Half the stuff you changed had nothing to do with it. Check your cap, rotor, and ignition module.

you said you repl dist cap that means you don't have a crank sensor you have electronic ing module. remove your elec ing module have it tested most auto parts stores could test your module, or check your coil at the neg terminal. should have power. if not you lost your primary volt from your batt.your secondary power is coming from your electronic ing module from the module to the pos terminal on the coil, when the eng cranks,from the coil to the dist cap , from the dist cap center to the rotor then out to the plugs,this all happen pervided the timing belt or timing chain is ok. the cumbustion chainber needs 3 things , thats fuel, air, and spark.

Check for injector pulse if no pulse with no spark check ignition module in distributor or crank sensor.

Could be the ignition coil or ignition module. Also check the ignition fuse.

COULDBE RELAY FUEL PUMP